Replacing Clutch reservoir Hose and fixing rock plate (plastic one)

[Grandavi]

Now.. to bleed a clutch there are 2 basic ways to attack it... and the one I used dont work well.. Its different than a brake system, because if you use the "push down" while opening the bleed nipple, the clutch will go to the floor and stay there. Then you have to pull it up by hand. I, not knowing better, did it this way utilizing one of my boys for the push down/pull up. Probably the worst possible way to achieve this.
Also.. if your not bright like me.... and do this.. you have to press it down a few times and only open the bleeder nipple slightly or else all pressure falls down.

The correct way (which is discussed in the TSRM that I linked above) is to have a hose that fits over the bleed nipple and goes into a jar or bottle of brake fluid. That way, you can open up the nipple and pump it up and down to circulate the fluid through. It will blow the air out (dont do it rapidly) and cant suck air back in this way. BEST WAY!

My way took me an hour... and really sucked.. so I recommend what the TSRM says...

Now.. note that you need to keep an eye on the level in the Clutch master cylinder (shown below). Try to not let it go down below the half way mark or you could suck air down into it again...


(the clutch master cylinder is right near the driver side door against the firewall.. basically in line with the clutch pedal)

I let my reservoir run low as shown and had to begin again. Its a pain to do it wrong.. lol. Should have taken me only 30 minutes from start to finish.. but took me almost 2 hours cause my brain was on vacation...

A pic...


A question here... I started out with DOT3 Brake fluid (thats what the manual calls for) and then ran out. So, my wife picked up some DOT3 synthetic brake fluid, which I did not notice the synthetic part until afterwards. Shouldn't make a difference Im hoping...

Questions? : )

[Grandavi]

Finally.. I mention the engine rock protector plate in the title because I took mine off. Didn't realise until after it was off that there was absolutely no need. However, I thought I would include it, because as I put it back on I noticed something.

If you service the car or someone else does, chances are they either over tighten the bolts or wear and tear on the holes from the bolts will make it hang imporperly (as was the case for mine). This plate starts directly under the bumper at the very front of the car and goes to the back of the engine right before the oil pan drain plug. It pretty well covers the bottom of the engine and the hoses down there...

Here is a pic of it off of the car.



Now, I noticed that these screws were pulling through cracked/enlargened holes...



So... I used larger washers. Bear in mind.. these are the only screws I took off originally. It wasn't until after I went to put it back on that I noticed the other 7 screws (pretty sure it was 7) that were still on the car but pulled behind the plate.

The picture shows the "fixed" screw with the new washer on the right side. I used a thin metal washer that could bend slightly as I tightend as some of these holes have contours near them. A thick large washer may crack the plastic.