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Old 08-29-2008, 02:28 AM   #21
mnewxv
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Ty for the responses so far!

So, basically, I've been listening to my motor and I think my valves may need to be adjusted .. it sounds like a couple are tapping... I think these are manually adjusted, will have to look into that. So, at the same time, I can redo the headbolts. Now, if I use the ARP ones, can I get away with just pulling and retorquing each bolt individually? Or is it gonna need a bit more prep than that?

At the same time, (because I got the top kinda cleaned off anyway) I may as well be prepped to replace some of the hoses I showed with oil on them as I think they are leaking somehow. And, because Im there... I may as well do the upgraded intake at the same time. Bad part is, Im gonna have to find the cold air intake without the filter, as I already have that part.

Thinking K&N for the intake.



Depending on how long it takes me to amass the parts I need, I may have to wait on the exhaust (if I can hold off until November.. then I can do all at once, but I dont think I can wait that long as the leaking oil annoys me, because until I fix the hoses, I wont know if anything else is leaking...

I am planning to steamclean the engine compartment after the hoses so that I can find the leakages better as well as clean the undercarriage as much as I can as well. That will give me a much better picture of what is currently leaking and what is from past.. as now I am looking at both..

No header needed, but make sure the mod'ed exhaust has a resonator and good muffler? I think my son-in-law has something lined up for me already on that point... : ). Header is not needed unless I install a bigger turbo (which I wont be doing).

I think I'm starting to get a good map going of what to do, and it looks all fairly affordable.

With the Turbo timer, I think I have to also get a new harness. I haven't found anything really on boost control yet, and the intercooler looks pretty straight forward.
you shouldnt need a new harness with a turbo timer.

edit: maybe you do, but its avail here. not sure if its cheap or not compared to other stores.

GReddy Full Auto Turbo Timer

Last edited by mnewxv; 08-29-2008 at 02:36 AM.
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Old 08-29-2008, 04:06 AM   #22
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Regarding the Turbo timer in a stock MKIII... does anyone here know if I need to order the harness? Its only 10.00 so no biggie if I get it and dont need it.

Also, does everyone put it on top of the steering column? Im thinking of embedding it in the dash somehow. Maybe make a faceplate and put it in the ashtray slot.. hmm...

Has anyone used this or think its worthy of consideration? (my car is going to remain mainly stock and not raced too much)
DNA Manual Boost Controller - No Boost Spike

Also, I may have mentioned this before, but our max Octane level at the pumps is generally 91... Just for normal driving, it seems to be okay, but would octane boost help the car (from a longevity standpoint, not just speed)

Found out what the toggle to the left of the steering wheel is for. It used to be to lock the TEMS into 3rd position. When the engine was repaired (it is original block and heads I found out), they disconnected the wires. Luckily the previous owner misses the car and doesn't mind telling me its history.

Last edited by Grandavi; 08-29-2008 at 04:54 AM.
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Old 08-29-2008, 02:51 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandavi View Post
Regarding the Turbo timer in a stock MKIII... does anyone here know if I need to order the harness? Its only 10.00 so no biggie if I get it and dont need it.

Also, does everyone put it on top of the steering column? Im thinking of embedding it in the dash somehow. Maybe make a faceplate and put it in the ashtray slot.. hmm...

Has anyone used this or think its worthy of consideration? (my car is going to remain mainly stock and not raced too much)
DNA Manual Boost Controller - No Boost Spike

Also, I may have mentioned this before, but our max Octane level at the pumps is generally 91... Just for normal driving, it seems to be okay, but would octane boost help the car (from a longevity standpoint, not just speed)

Found out what the toggle to the left of the steering wheel is for. It used to be to lock the TEMS into 3rd position. When the engine was repaired (it is original block and heads I found out), they disconnected the wires. Luckily the previous owner misses the car and doesn't mind telling me its history.

well if you mean like the little autostore or gas station octane boosters, dont bother, their only raising octane in small amounts from 91 to like 91.8 or so lol. boost contrlloers come in manual or electronic, AEM makes a good BC that is also a boost guage, try Boost Controllers thats a whole page of diff BC's so you get an idea, i really like AEM's tru boost, or you get spend the money for one of the best, the blitz sbc i color, but at close to 600, thats for someone looking for the most power they can get, and will need to be tuned by someone knowledgable, the aem is, ooo what does this button do? *push* raises or lowers boost and thats it lol.
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Old 08-29-2008, 05:00 PM   #24
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Quote:
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the aem is, ooo what does this button do? *push* raises or lowers boost and thats it lol.
At this point, I think the aem sounds best
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Old 08-29-2008, 05:54 PM   #25
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well its good to get a fresh tune for just about any upgrade you do, whether it be a full exhaust, ANY turbo boost controller if your raising the boost even 1-2 pounds, new turbo, new heads, etc etc. Turbo timer doesnt of course since it isnt so much an upgrade to performance but one to longevity.

as for the octane booster, 91 should be fine unless your like pushing 400WHP or more. how much is a gallon of 91 octane up there? most stations here have 93, with some every now and then having 94. but with the prices mine doesnt seem to mind 87 (manufacturers spec)
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Old 08-29-2008, 06:35 PM   #26
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well a boost controller doesnt need a tune technicaly, it just gets dialed to whatyou want. but youll probabaly want fuel management once you upgrade the exhaust, boost level and what not i dont think the ecu make sup for very much on these, theirs multiple threads on what youll need tho.
man all this take makes me want a turbo car so bad now lol.
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Old 08-30-2008, 06:55 AM   #27
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Just adding a fyi

Got my appraisal back. It came in at $6000.00.
I paid $6000.00

Nice feeling to be insured on a 20+ year old car for what you paid for it...

(now if someone runs into me.. I can pick up that sweet low mileage white 85.5, lol)

And I still cant seem to drive this car under 120 KPH... (think thats about 75 MPH) Gonna have to get new tires for this car as well now, The front pair doesn't match the back pair (size same, tread and make different) plus they have some cracking showing up on the edges of the tread due to age and sitting so long. I believe the tires are about 4 years old. Thinking of doing a "smoking" photoshoot prior to replacing them. Burn the old one's a bit for a nice shot
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Old 08-30-2008, 07:24 PM   #28
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wow 6k? what did that involve? haha a smoke shoot would be sick, my tires are the smae way, so once i get the 2 last sensors wired up, ima try the same thing hahaha.
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Old 08-31-2008, 06:38 PM   #29
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haha very nice. after i get my 89 n/a all restored im selling it and buying a turbo model instead lol. if you wd-40 those rust spots, make sure to tell the painter, or he'll hate you for it, i work at a piant shop, wd-40,wax,oil is not our friend lol. the more you spool that turbo, the warmer its guna be, so that lil bit of oil on things is just burning off, you prob stop smelling it soon or if their are leaks keep an eye on your oil level then, dont wana burn that turbo up lol. i hear that replacing that downpipe makes you spool quit a bit quicker and pull alot harder, if you do the downipe youll probably want a boost controller to prevent spike too, im sure someone will back this up or correct me lol.
yes scionguy, i back you up. haha. get the controller to prevent spike cuz you will probably hit fuel cut if it spikes too high.
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Old 09-01-2008, 12:34 AM   #30
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The appraisal was just a long question/answer period followed by a intense inspection and photo shoot, followed by researching replacing the vehicle. There are about 3 pages of itemizations with conditions listed and a car history/summarization at the end. Then, a cost that reflects replacement cost. I was thinking more like 4900 (its CDN dollars btw), but it came out at 6k. Hard to find a decent 88 in Canada right now unless its right hand drive. Even then... its tough. (those are usually "pimped" and cost over 10k... I only found one that I would even consider driving)

As for the downpipe and booster, I am sourcing all the parts now. Going to up the exhaust to a 3" catback system, boost control, boost timer, retrofitting the A/C (just to get rid of that little headache and I don't like playing with A/C systems). I am also going to upgrade the air intake system, but I am having difficulty sourcing the parts for that. I already have a K&N filter, but from what I have read, upgrading will allow the engine to have a "smoother" and more controlled air intake. As well, when the exhaust gets put on, Im going to slap hard-pipes on the intercooler. I looked at upgrading the intercooler, but for under 300hp (which the car will probably remain) I dont think its worth it.

After logging about 10 hours driving it, I am finding it fun to drive, scary to take above 110 mph with current rubber, and frustrating when people wont get out of the way! : )

Last edited by Grandavi; 09-01-2008 at 12:35 AM. Reason: spelling
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