Timing question.

supramacist · 04-25-2008, 12:19 AM

Oh I got ya what ever rtfm means. woman up rtfm???

Look I'm learning. I know what's what and You guys are 100 percent correct.

The screw that has the nut around it on the exhaust side pic of the dash pot. It adjusts the distance between connection. I'm positive it's the screw that IHateHacks was referring too.

I also believe after reading this last post cre. That my dashpot is working.
It seems slow to me but your description of it's function is exactlly how it's acting. Thanks for the tip on how to reset it. Now when the car is running. I think my dash pot is sticking sticking stuck.

LOL, dude. I know I have it and I know it's all right here. I'm going to keep trying until I know it's nothing I'm doing.

Thank you all. I'll post progress as it occurs.

cre · 04-25-2008, 12:20 AM

RTFM = Read The F@#$ing Manual

supramacist · 04-25-2008, 12:30 AM

Hey man..., when I'm actually working. I figure it out faster than I can normally find it in the manual. I have been in that biotch today.

But I'm stupid like this. I may not know the names of everything. But once I get done fixing them I won't forget anytime soon.

I think I'm going to woman up and just get a new dashpot on order.

Hello. Here's the kicker a few days back I notice a couple of bee's in the garage no biggie shut em out, they leave. Right now as I type a hive is eating its way out of an empty box for my air compressor. I have the stereo on and I can still hear them hum. I think I may need a priest.

So anyway. I came back up hoping someone could just affirmate my direction and kill a few minutes since I didn't un hook the battery. And I have. Thank You.

I'm gone.

supramacist · 04-25-2008, 01:12 AM

OK.

It's showing no codes. I tested the dashpot as cre said. It acted just as it should have.

It seems that the dashpot doesn't want to decompress fully which in turn is slowly bumping the idle up. Till it just jumps open to 2000 rpm'ish then it sticks.

The idle is steady on the 10 mark. I don't go much for that advanced timing schmaz..., but to each there own.

Even when reving by hand or in the car the dashpot just seems hesitant to let the hammer drop fully.

I think we have Found my problem.

On a lighter note the AFM and the cheapo 10$ filter have worked well.
I did as you fellers told me and haven't had an issue with the coolant light at all today. Idling or driving

cre · 04-25-2008, 01:55 AM

Try clamping the dashpot's actuator down with a zip tie, then go for a drive. The only thing that'll happen with the dashpot's plunger rendered inactive is that the engine with spike rich when you dump the throttle... the car may jerk a little (try to slow harder than usual) at that point.

If the idle returns to normal and the TPS is properly set, and the code 51 is gone, THEN you may proceed with setting the timing.

supramacist · 04-25-2008, 02:09 AM

When applying pressure to the dashpot it seems like it's going to kill the engine.

cre · 04-25-2008, 03:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supramacist

When applying pressure to the dashpot it seems like it's going to kill the engine.

Really? Were you or were you not doing something to manually adjust the idle? If so, then I'd start with trying to undo it.

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04-25-2008, 12:19 AM	#1
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Oh I got ya what ever rtfm means. woman up rtfm??? Look I'm learning. I know what's what and You guys are 100 percent correct. The screw that has the nut around it on the exhaust side pic of the dash pot. It adjusts the distance between connection. I'm positive it's the screw that IHateHacks was referring too. I also believe after reading this last post cre. That my dashpot is working. It seems slow to me but your description of it's function is exactlly how it's acting. Thanks for the tip on how to reset it. Now when the car is running. I think my dash pot is sticking sticking stuck. LOL, dude. I know I have it and I know it's all right here. I'm going to keep trying until I know it's nothing I'm doing. Thank you all. I'll post progress as it occurs.

04-25-2008, 12:20 AM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	RTFM = Read The F@#$ing Manual

04-25-2008, 12:30 AM	#3
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Hey man..., when I'm actually working. I figure it out faster than I can normally find it in the manual. I have been in that biotch today. But I'm stupid like this. I may not know the names of everything. But once I get done fixing them I won't forget anytime soon. I think I'm going to woman up and just get a new dashpot on order. Hello. Here's the kicker a few days back I notice a couple of bee's in the garage no biggie shut em out, they leave. Right now as I type a hive is eating its way out of an empty box for my air compressor. I have the stereo on and I can still hear them hum. I think I may need a priest. So anyway. I came back up hoping someone could just affirmate my direction and kill a few minutes since I didn't un hook the battery. And I have. Thank You. I'm gone.

04-25-2008, 01:12 AM	#4
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	OK. It's showing no codes. I tested the dashpot as cre said. It acted just as it should have. It seems that the dashpot doesn't want to decompress fully which in turn is slowly bumping the idle up. Till it just jumps open to 2000 rpm'ish then it sticks. The idle is steady on the 10 mark. I don't go much for that advanced timing schmaz..., but to each there own. Even when reving by hand or in the car the dashpot just seems hesitant to let the hammer drop fully. I think we have Found my problem. On a lighter note the AFM and the cheapo 10$ filter have worked well. I did as you fellers told me and haven't had an issue with the coolant light at all today. Idling or driving

04-25-2008, 01:55 AM	#5
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Try clamping the dashpot's actuator down with a zip tie, then go for a drive. The only thing that'll happen with the dashpot's plunger rendered inactive is that the engine with spike rich when you dump the throttle... the car may jerk a little (try to slow harder than usual) at that point. If the idle returns to normal and the TPS is properly set, and the code 51 is gone, THEN you may proceed with setting the timing.

04-25-2008, 02:09 AM	#6
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	When applying pressure to the dashpot it seems like it's going to kill the engine.