the on that looks like an overflow and has a turn knob just above it.?

The timing light pickup should be on # 6 HT lead; don’t forget to short out terminals T and E1 in the diagnosis box. I've never had a problem with air trapped in the cooling system. I normally set the heater controls on to hot and fill up the system fairly slowly, start the engine with the cap off and leave it for about 3 minutes, put the cap back on and gravity does the rest. I assume and air would be expelled into the expansion tank and when the engine cools down only coolant would be sucked back in. (that’s providing you have remembered to fill up the expansion bottle to above halfway)
I've seen post about burping the system, where you remove the jiggle valve and drill a 4mm hole in the thermostat, park the supra facing up a hill, stand on one leg, let the engine run for a while with the cap off and out pops the air bubbles. (Standing on one leg is optional)
Power steering, funny you should ask that; I've never removed the PS Reservoir even when removing the engine, I understand the procedure is this; Start the engine and let it tick over between 800 and 1,000 revs, Remove the PS Reservoir cap, keep tuning the steering wheel slowly to one lock to another, you should see air bubbles rising up. If you can, it would be better to raise the front wheels of the ground. Great weather today Andy hope it lasts for next weekend.

hello mate ok ill try cylinder six, when i tried it last time i wasnt even close.
you say T and E1 but there isnt a T on its own there is a Tt and a TE1

when i timed it with my neighbour we did it with TE1 and E1 and.

A few links Andy that may help.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=20
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=SR&P=41

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CO&P=5

Ok my manual is slightly different to the Cygnusx on line, mine states T for the MA engine. The terminal positions are the same though, just link the terminals marked in black in the diagram below.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...tionTiming.jpg

hi bill ill try retiming on cylinder six tommorow after work and see if this helps with the lumpness cheers.

ok. coulnt time the car on cylinder 6 it wouldnt start ,timed it on 1 again which ran better but still very lumpy. but when i looked under the car the exhaust was glowing red hot almost see through it.

ive played with the cam position sensor moved it around etc while on cylinder 6 and it wont start.

when i had it running on cylinder 1 i took the timing light of 1 and place it on six and the markings moved to 20 past( bottom of the crank pulley) cant adjust without it stalling.

im starting to wonder if the valve timing is out and the guy at the machine shop put the cams in wrong way round??

cant do no more till i find some answers looking to all the people in the know how about timing this vehicle.???

Ok start at the beginning; drain some of the coolant and remove the top hose, remove the top cam cover to expose the cam pulleys, remove # 1 spark plug and insert a clean rod or clean wooden dowel into the spark plug hole, it needs to be about 12 inches long and ? diameter approx (not too short that you loose it down the hole) turn the crankshaft and watch the rod go up and down. When the rod is at its highest point and the crank pulley is at zero that will be top dead centre. Now check the cam pulleys are aligned with the match marks on the cover, both should be at the top. If they are not, remove the cam belt and reposition them to the correct position. Reinstall the cam belt, remove the CPS and reinstall as stated in the online cygnusx1
MK3 TSRM On-Line

hi bill, still problems was 180 out corrected that and drove round the block this was timed on cylinder 1. cylinder 6 just wont time. still lumpy

cylinder 6 is at the back of the engine number 1 at the front no one else as ever heard of timing on number 6????

did you time number 6 yourself or did someone else do it?

No one touches the Supra except myself, I've set the timing dozens of times using # 6 as stated in document below. (# 6 is at the back) if you have a variable setting on your strobe light set it at zero. It sounds if you may have a doggie HT lead. Does the timing advance when you remove the terminal link in the diagnosis box.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5.../timing014.jpg

yes advances 12 degrees i asked someone else on the forum the same quesrtion micklneye
and he reckons 1 im getting so confused.

how to remove the head?
 

I have a 91 turbo and tried once to replace the cylinder head gasket. I removed the turbo charger, intake system. removed the 14 head cylinder 10mm bolts, but the head won't come off. Used a rubber hammer to bam it from the side, but won't help. Finally, I put them all back.
Can someone tell me how to remove the head safely?

Well..., the guide pins are working then. Since you're smacking it about from side to side.

You take it lose..., sounds like you have.
Means you have already locked yourself into machining it again.

Chuh..., You need to start your own thread so we can help you so bill can work in peace to get andy up and running.

And when you open your own thread. ELABORATE...., on and in. Detail.

Help us help you:crazy2:.

yippee
 

ive done it! yippee sweet as a nut.:dance:

Congrats!!!!

But I have to say..., sweet and nut aren't words I hear dudes use everyday. Not in the same scentence:yum:,lol.

wastegate.
 

:offwall::offwall:english term mate. sweet as a nut or dogs bollo**s lol.

right now its a bit of a tidy up around the engine bay etc and start looking at the exhaust system and a couple of washes for the wastegate

do i put the washes under the bracket behind the wastegate?

still smiling:offwall::offwall::offwall:

Well Andy’s up and running again, I dare say Andy will explain the initial problem (How the hell you can fit the head up side down I don’t know) One thing I did learn from him which I didn’t realise before is that when # 1 sparks so does # 6. The 7M-GTE engine has bank of three coils, the coil on the left connects to leads 1 & 6 the middle coil connects to 3 & 4 and the right hand coil connects to 2 & 5. When # 1 sparks so does # 6, but # 6 is a wasted spark and does nothing. The same applies to the other coils they spark in pairs but one of them will be a wasted spark. Toyota in there wisdom referred to # 6 for the strobe pick up, this saves removing the coil cover that obscures # 1 lead; as they both spark together, it all makes sense now. Firing order just in case someone needs it 1-5-3-6-2-4
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...CoilPackA4.jpg

Those coil packs don't look fun to me.
They look more pricey than the standard dist cap and rotor.
Plugs and wires cost the same.

What's the life expectantsy of a new oem set of those and what do they run, american if you please.?

holy crap it actually says # 6 in the manual
thanks for the green arrow . i looked at those pages a few times on friday night and didn't see that line once

well it was friday night

Hi ddmcse I have edited the original picture so you don’t miss it next time; you will need to refresh your cache (delete your cookies) some computers will hang on to the last image in the cache even though it doesn’t exist on the website, you may still see the old image with the yellow arrow.

i toss my cookies often
j/k
i have always timed with #1
after more investigation i find that my EM -17 isn't the same as yours
mine is compression

IG section looks like this
MK3 TSRM On-Line

i must admit the whole thing was driving me nuts, it all makessense now though hey.

im going to be running my car about 11 psi just waiting for the exhaust, running 7psi at the moment with shimmed waste gate, does anyone now if running at 11psi will make the car run lean?

i have stock gasket and arp head studs torqued to 82 is thissafe to run 11psi?

cheers guys.

Andy here's a new term for you: FCO . wait till you find out what this is !

HEY DDMCSE checked it out and found this, so im assuming the car cant run lean then just cuts the fuel.

what about the stock head gasket i fitted and arps will the head take it. cheers.

oh one last thing mate i have gurgling behind dash. wouldnt of thought head gasket. temperture fine water levels fine no smoke no water in the oil etc. plus only just finished head gasket replacement and gurgling was there straight away. suppose it could be air in the system




The boost pressure of the Toyota Supra can be raised to a certain limit. If the boost goes beyond this limit, the computer will cut of the fuel delivery for a certain period of time (about two or three seconds) because it assumes 'something is wrong'.
This boost cut or FCO (Fuel Cut-Off) is a nice thing to have, nobody wants their Supra to blow up of course. But there is one bad thing about it; it's way too early. The fuel gets cut off at about .70 kg/cm2 (that's about 10 PSI).
This really depends on the weather etc. In my situation this was (I live in Holland where it rains a lot), on other situations the boost cut can be a little bit higher, but after all, it's way too early.
Before I started to search for a solution to get rid of the annoying FCO, I first researched how the FCO gets activated and why exactly.
The computer of the car, monitors the amount of air sucked in via the Air Flow Meter (AFM) of which you see here a picture:
http://supras.nl/images/afm1.jpg
As you might be able to imagine, all air filtered by the intake gets through the AFM before it hits the wheels of the turbo. This AFM measures the amount of incoming air. Only a certain amount if air can be measured, e.g. the AFM has a physical limit. The exact limit I don't know.
The more air is sucked in by the turbo, the more fuel needs to be injected into the engine. This is achieved by giving the fuel injectors a 'longer' pulse. How long the pulse is, is normally counted in percentage 'duty cycle'. A duty cycle of 0% means no fuel at all and 100% means completely open. 100% is in practice impossible; the highest duty cycle in fuel injectors is something about 80%.
Now what is the physical limit causing the boost cut? This is a combination of the limits for both the AFM and the fuel injectors. At the boost cut level, the AFM cannot measure any much more air, and the fuel injectors are at their highest duty cycle. If people can confirm this (and the levels) please email me!
So the solution to this FCO problem, is somehow telling the computer the amount of air going thru the AFM is less than the actual intake air mass. This can be achieved by tampering with the Air Flow signal. A device taking care of this tampering is the HKS Fuel Cut Defenser (FCD).
http://supras.nl/images/hksfcd.jpgThe HKS fuel cut defenser
The fuel cut defenser from HKS tampers in such a way with the air flow signal, that the computer is told there is about 80% of the air sucked in, instead of the actual 100%. So the FCO is just a device to get rid of the fuel cut temporarily.
Although this can solve most of your problems, an FCD can be a highly dangerous device. As the computer is told there is about 80% of the original air flown in, the injectors are controlled to flow this amount of fuel as well, so in fact the engine will run more LEAN than originally planned. And this is NOT GOOD.
Lean conditions on engines can be really harmful. Pistons and valves can get too hot and your engine can be gone within minutes! So be warned, know what you do when you put in a FCD. When HKS designed this unit, they assumed your car was running way too rich, which is a fact. But running cars too rich is done to prevent lean conditions. So don't screw the air flow signal too much when you're not absolutely sure, ok?
Conclusion: The HKS FCD is a nice device for just a little tuning whatsoever, but when you start 'serious' stuff, keep your hands off the FCD.
So when we're not really 'allowed' to tamper with the airflow signal, how do we get rid of the boost cut then? Answer: Just REPLACE the airflow meter.
Replacing the AFM is a very common 'upgrade stage' in tuning cars. HKS has their own unit for replacing the airflow meter called the 'Vein Pressure Converter' VPC. This unit is quite expensive and totally not needed, as I found out after doing the Lexus Riemer upgrade.
The Lexus Riemer upgrade, is called as the two words stand for the most important ingredients: Lexus for the Lexus Air flow meter and Riemer for Reg Riemer, a Supra enthusiast from the states.
With this upgrade we replace the air flow meter of the Toyota Supra with one from a Lexus LS-400. This air flow meter is completely interchangeable with the Supra one; the electronics on the airflow meter even has the same serial number!
The only difference the Lexus AFM has with the one from the Supra is the size. The Lexus AFM is approximately 25% bigger, so the amount of air measured is about 25% less than the 'real' airflow.
Now when the computer gets this tampered signal, it will control the fuel injectors as if 25% less air was taken in; the duty cycle will drop with approximately 25% as well. Your car will run way too lean. To compensate this lean condition, the Lexus Riemer modification will tell you to replace your stock fuel injectors with 550cc fuel injectors.

The gurgling behind the dash is what I call the ''waterfall''.
It means you have an air bubble in your coolant system.

Fill the catch can with a 50/50 mix.
Jack the nose up. And remove the radiator cap. While the engine is cool.

Inspect the cap. Particularly the rubber stopper.
If it's cracked and hard and worn or fatigued. You could be sucking pirate air into the system. Caps are like 15$ from the dealership.

If it looks good and you aren't getting buubles.
Go back to filling the catch can with 50/50 and drive normal.
Watching your instrument clusters and if all's well after your build.

The engine will work the bubble out on it's own.

If you actually have to ''burp'' at this point. That could be a sign that something is wrong. And you should inspect more deeply.

These ofcourse are opinions and there is a reason they are free.

ok mate ill do that first thing tommorow morning getting a bit late now to do it and the engines rather warm too. lol.

burping?

hope your cars alright mate, and got whatever problem you had sorted.

With this Lexus AFM, do I use the stock AFM sensor (black electrical box)??

I'm thinking about getiing a AEM EMS (stand alone engine management).
I wonder if I can effectively map my air/fuel mixtures with this EMS without buying a Lexus AFM. What do you think.

I already have 550cc injectors, running lean with slight mis-fire especially noticeable at idle. Can you suggest a good place to buy this Lexus AFM and if I need a Lexus sensor? Maybe I make that change and everthing is great and I skip the EMS purchase. (save tons of money)

buy it from a junk yard

Hey I'm in the middle of replacing my headgasket also and i was reading your thread and had a question. I purchased some ARP studs as well and am also having trouble getting the studs all the way down in the block. can you tell me what you did?

and should i use the moly lube or 30wt?

I assume you really mean studs and not bolts. (They sell both) So if it's studs it's a little tricky but all and all a better result.

Make sure you have cleaned your head bolt holes very well. I used the lube that came with them which I think was molly lube. You have a small hex head on the top side of your studs to help you screw the studs into the block with an allen wrench. They don't need to be cranked tight down in there...just snug. They should all go in about the same depth. If one is way off you may have a problem with that bolt hole. Just make sure the exposed lengths once seated looks correct before setting the head on in case they sent you the wrong length. (You could call ARP or whoever you bought them from and double check length/part number)

If your engine is still in the car, you'll find it tricky to get the head back on the studs. I used a shop engine hoist and my son to help me gently guide and lower the head over the studs. (Taking the hood off would make it easier but I did it with hood on)

Another tip I got from the head machining guy, once the head is on and ready to torque, torque each nut in the proper order to about 40 ft/lbs...then walk away or work on something else for about 1 hour. Then un-torque a little, re-torque to about 50 ft/lbs, wait about 30 minutes, torque to 60, wait 30 minutes, and so on up to the ARP values. (I think about 80 ft/lbs) Always torque in the proper order per your TSRM. Take your time and don't be distracted durring this process.

Congratulations on doing this yourself. Anybody else will not do it right.

Thanks a lot for the advice spudboy. I think i need to clean out the thereads in the block more because i used the allen wrench to tighten them down a little more and they still didnt go down that far (there was still threads on the stud showing that i thought were supposto be in the block)



Also someone on the other forum said i should put the head on and then put the studs in the block. I don't know if that would work out?

As I recall I had 2 or 3 threads exposed after the studs were snug into the block.

I can't say for sure, but it may be difficult to put the head on first then the studs. I may have decided that when I did mine or maybe I should have done it that way...can't remember. It sounds easier but I think you can't get a proper and confident 'seat' into the block with the studs doing it that way. Make sure when you discuss this with people you are sure everybody understands the difference between studs and bolts. I had some mis-communication in that area.

If you don't have or want to rent a hoist, three friends and you might carefully lower the head onto the studs. (don't give them any beer BEFORE you do this...be very careful)

You put the head on the guide pins 1st.
Then you place the arp washers.
Then you place the studs.

Finger tighten them in sequence.

You can not drop the head onto the studs installed into the block.

You need a can of compressed air to blow out the bolt holes.

And you want to use molly. Desperately.

You can get a tube at your local parts house for right around 5$.
Molly everything you bolt up or screw on.

Because if you know anything then you know the only thing you know is that you never know.
And you don't want to be messing around with grimey threads after you get done putting it together.

That's only half the battle. There's a solid week of tweaking coming up upon completion.

And for christ sakes DO NOT forget to use the high temp RTV on the required spots on the block Before you torque the head.

Or you'll be ripping into the engine from it's nose. Tearing into basically another build type situation to repair your mistakes.

I used the wrong filler and are currently paying for it. HIGH TEMP RTV.
Mui mui importante!

Good Luck.

Thanks a lot for the tips. As far as the HIGH TEMP RTV, where can i get some and where do i put it?

I'm not sure how you have managed over 500 posts and 2 years at this site and are still not sure where to get rtv :confused:. Let alone where it goes.

I don't mean to be rude or anything but c'mon.

You get the rtv at the same place as the molly. Use loctite brand.

Do you remember when it was all tore down and it was just your block?

Good well on the very front nose up by where the timing belt goes.

There was a hole. You couldn't miss it with the MHG top side the block.

To the best of my knowledge...., that's the only place it goes that I am aware of.

I have to prod you here to stop asking to be spoon fed. And learn how to wield your car.

You need to research. If you don't you're not only cheating yourself, but your car as well.

It's no use working on it yourself if you're not going to learn anything before hand. Because when it breaks from shoddy mechanicing.

It's going to cost you the same amount or even more to fix it right.

Not to mention the time you have waisted because you didn't form your own conclusions or thought process because you were to busy asking every one what was what instead of learning about it along with the rest of us.

Well thanks for the advice.

As far as me and my knowledge with 2 yrs on the forum and over 500 posts...this is a new experience for me. With only being 18 and replacing my own head gasket i believe my knowledge is above average about cars, from what i learned from the forms. Just because i don't know where to get a product like RTV and where to put it means you can question MY knowledge learned here. And not to mention this is why they have forums, so people like me can get answers from knowledgeable people like you.

I tried doing research on various forums but i came up with nothing on RTV and especially WHERE to put it properly on the block. If that question was asked it is probably ancient and I would spend days looking for it.

I AM using a thin layer of Hylomar on the block and head to get a good seal though.

Hey Burton, keep asking lots of questions. That is EXACTLY what these forums are for. That is also the best way to form your own opinions. There isn’t anybody in this forum, other forums, or the world who have ALL the RIGHT answers. You may get lots of answers, but many are wrong, ? wrong, or misleading.

Don’t pay attention to Supramacist seemingly cocky, negative, and ignorant sounding statements like…
Not to mention the time you have waisted because you didn't form your own conclusions or thought process because you were to busy asking every one what was what instead of learning about it along with the rest of us.

I’m sure Supramacist meant nothing personal. Sometimes when we e-mail or post things in forums the undertone comes across wrong.

My advice, for what it’s worth, MAKE SURE you have the official Toyota Supra full repair manual, ask lots of questions, don’t take anybodies opinions as Gospel, take your time, and have fun doing it. If you start to get frustrated with something, walk a way for a short while or day, come back with a fresh attitude and often things start to work.