crank nut
 

was worried about the crank nut started jamming a pry bar in the flywheel area to try and break the nut tension, didnt trust the teeth so left that and tried the starter method, i connected the battery went to turn the car over and nothing happened no power dont know whay would of thought the starter motor would of turned???? any ideas.

Any ended up bypassing the starter motor directly from the battery instead,
put bar on the nut and and turned car over, only for a second it was enough to realease the nut, worked a treat.

pulley just slid of too. removed bottom cover and cleaned as it was caked with fibres from the 20 year old belt.

just waiting for parts and the head now to start rebuilding.

decat downpipe
and wastegate shimming to do.

i dont know what to expect power wise from this car, when i first got it a few weeks ago the turbo read .6psi had a blown head and blown turbo gasket. so with all this done and the extras, im hoping for a good increase in power what you guys reckon on the bhp ??

You got soooooooo lucky dude.
You must have had someone owning it that took care of it instead of driving it into the ground. Good Work.

not sure what you mean by sooooo lucky mate?

wrong guy
 

wrong guy andy didnt post sooo lucky. i am going to see if i can post that snap on tool... i no you are already done but if you have to do it again [ hopefully not] it might come in handy Snap-on Tools


used w/a level i have had a lot of good results. not to mention it takes gasket material off in a matter of min... any way im just trying to help

You'll know when you deal with a janky one how easy this one really was.
You got lucky.

do you mean witht the crank nut supramacist?
does this not always work for people?

Ya it works. But not as easily as you're making it sound.

Alot of new guys struggle with that for the lions share of 2 days.

I'm just saying good job dude, jeeeez.

overview.
 

ill count my lucky stars with that then mate.
:) went to the machine shop yesterday to speak to the guy about my head etc. he said if this is my hobby then i should fix the car then sell it, said that underneath the journals was scoring looked like it had been ran low on oil at some point, then i read uop that this is quite normal on these cars.

he didnt fill me full of confidence the cheeky bugger.

im really enjoying everything im doing on this car and though people tell me ive picked a hard car to start on for my first project i have nothing to compare it too so wouldnt know.

i think the hardest part so far was removing the turbo oil pipe, had to get to it from the top.
so far so good ill keep posting until i finish. hopefully this will help beginners too.

Look dude.
I'm a 91 n/a 5 speed. This was my first project car as well.
It's been great and i wouldn't trade the experiencce for too much of anything.

BUT IT'S BEEN A HELLISH NIGHT MARE MONEY HUNGRY, well I'll refrain.

It's going to get much worse before it gets better unless you got damn lucky. But it's worth it in the end. Just don't race every fool that revs at the reds. Sometimes it's more cool to rool out low.

silt thermostat
 

:eek3:yeah moneys starting to top up.
ill just do bit at a time when i can afford it. ive been hearing a little bit about checking the thermostat for silt? this was recommeneded by a local parts supplier which he read directly from the book about these cars and there head gaskets?

anyone else heard of this?

head studs or headbolts what's the difference
 

can someone tell me about undercut bolts/studs and standard bolts/studs
i mean i guess one is shorter than the oter but why??
can anyone shed some light on this.

No need it's irrelevant.

You want the standard sized ARP studs.

That's all you really need to know.

coolant hoses.
 

hi bill, supramacist,

can you send me some pictures of all the coolant hoses if possible,
thinking about replacing them. not sure how many there are, cheers.:)

Upper and Lower radiator hoses.
Upper head hose right at the rear of the head behind the spark plug galley.
Lower block hose back behind those pesky starter bolts.

Those are the main ones right off the top of my head.

Hi Andy,these are from the EPC DVD (Electronics Part Catalogue) this should cover most of them. The numbers on the drawings are not the Toyota part numbers, they are just figure numbers. When the EPC software is installed you just click on the figure # and then click execute and up pops the Toyota part # and price. Please note the drawings are from a 7M-GTE UK model.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b56/cirgriff/1003.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b56/cirgriff/2004.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b56/cirgriff/3005.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b56/cirgriff/4006.jpg

Missed one, properly the most likely to need replacing is in red, this connects to the back of the head.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b56/cirgriff/5007.jpg

vsv
 

cheers bill,supramacist what does the vsv do? and stand for.

I don't know without looking it up.

Do a search on vsv valve.

Vacuum Solenoid Valve: part of the EGR unit (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) as it says on the label, it recirculates a percentage of the exhaust gas back into the inlet manifold. All to do with lowing exhaust emissions, some UK members have removed theirs, as you probably know vehicles registered before 1992 in the UK are allowed a higher Nitrogen Oxides emission levels that’s also why many remove their cats.
Back to your pipes, I would suggest you replace the ones that are difficult to get at and look inexpensive, there are a couple of small 90? elbows one on the exhaust side rear of the head and one at the front just behind the thermostat housing. How does that large turbo concertina pipe look ?, the one that fits to inlet side of the turbo with a few pipe coming off of it.

EGR UNIT
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b56/cirgriff/EGR.jpg

bill
 

hey bill where can i get arp head studs from, i can only seem to find them in the usa?

There you go !, Price in 2006 was ?77.00
Contact Del Johnson,
Kent Performance Camshafts Ltd.
Units 1-4 Military Rd,
Shorncliffe Ind Est.
Folkestone.
Kent.
England.
CT20 3SP.

Tel: 00 44 (0)1303 248666.
Fax: 00 44 (0)1303 252508.

WWW.KENTCAMS.COM

Does he have the metal coolant lines that run the length of the block?

thanks bill emailed them today,
supramacist i think i do have the metal ones that run the length of the block cheers all. you all being a great help just waiting for the cam seals to be replaced and the o ring fitted in the cps then i should be able to start rebuilding her.

Ya...., I just blew the coolant line coming from the water pump to the t-stat housing. Yeeehaw.

Luckily I have just replaced a different coolant line and I may be able to scavange a bit here without ordering a new line.

None the less I'll call monday and get a price and an eta if I order it.

i'm starting to hear that ozzy song

phoned kentcams today they wanted 170 quid forthe head studs!
think ill check ebay instead hopefully itll be cheaper getting them from america.
eBay Motors: ARP 203-4202 TOYOTA 7MGTE:SUPRA HEAD STUD KIT (item 360045965042 end time Apr-30-08 12:00:26 PDT)

are these the ones i need??

Whats 170 quid American???

A quid is slang for one ?1 GBP
?170 GBP (Great Britain Pounds) = $338.56 at today’s exchange rate. Yes you need to be a really dedicated owner of a Supra in the UK. Andy check any import duty, they may even send them as a present,which will be exempt from duty. Either way I would go to the US for them. While your at it, get me some ADR alloy wheels, ADR `s are not obtainable in the UK.

Yes. He should be able to buy them around 225$ and have them shipped for alot less than 100 bucks.

I'd order outside my country. Can't be any worse than dealing with canadians:rofl:.

Andy, it may be worth contacting this guy, he is in the Traders section on the UK site. SIP Racing (location US) http://www.sipracingmailorder.com/servlet/the-71/Toyota-Supra-7mgte-U-dsh-Cut/Detail

picked the head up today all excited about getting it back,
but i put the head on and started placing in the arp head studs and noticed a few are tight and a couple dont go in as far os the others, i looked down the holes and hovvered out before hand so not sure whats up?

unless some do go in further than others any info grateful on these head studs
cheers.

i see the head studs are longer than the original head bolts? im thinking threads holes might be deeper than others.

Have you tried screwing in an old head bolt to see if you have the same problem, how much longer are the new studs? I would have thought Toyota would have machined the threads deeper than required in the block to allow for the head and block to be skimmed. Sounds like you may have some rubbish in the threads of the hole. I think I would remove the head and use a long thin round brush to clean out the holes (the type spray shops use to clean out their paint spray guns or you may find them in a gun shop) screw in the new studs to see how far they go, you may need to result to cleaning the threads with a machine tap. You should be able to borrow one from the company that skimmed the head. They come in three types, bottoming, plug and taper, I would recommend you use the taper first as its easer to locate into threads without cross threading and shouldn’t cause any block material to be removed providing the hole is deep enough. As this is the most critical part of the engine I wouldn’t take any chances.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...f/brushset.jpg

i tried one of the old head bolts and it started to get tiff but met the top of the head these stud are about 3cm longer. im sure theres nothinh in the holes?? also i tried tightening the stud fairly tight heard this was wrong and should only be wound in finger tight??

someone was telling me that i need a special tap tool as the threads on the arp studs could be diffrent from your standard tapping equipment

none of them go in to far just a couple stick up i tried a 3/8 14mm 12 pt socket and it only fits on about 8 i would say. was thinking of replacing old bolts in replacement to the ones i cant work with (arp)

if i turned the studs upside down that will give me a bit more thread on nut as there longer thred on one side.

cant believe im in a pickle already. :(also im a bit worried as i was tightened the head studs quite a bit with a 5m allen key dont think i should of done that though the studs alone cant torque the head. this is just what i heard .

The hole in the head is only a clearance hole, and should have no effect on compressing the gasket if the stud is over tightened. I think they suggest finger tight to allow for the stud to rotate slightly when tightening up the nut. Otherwise if the stud was screwed in firmly into the block and the stud rotated causing it to tightened up even more, the stud would be difficult to be removed using a small 5mm allen key. Using a mixture of old bolts and new studs doesn’t sound a good idea. Read this http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/eb70536.htm
I know there\'s a lot or recommendation to use ARP studs, but there is also a lot of Supras that have had BHG repaired using stock Toyota head bolts.The set of APR studs you have don’t sound if they are for a 7M engine. As I said “this is the most critical part of the engine I wouldn’t take any chances”

A deep well 14mm and you\'ll be good.

You guys are making some of this more tough than it needs to be.