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thtas what i have a deep wall 12 pt socket 3/8 14mm.
doesnt fit on all of the cams get in the way |
i need to tap my block as the studs arent going all the way in but i dont know what thread size is on the arp head studs i bought does anyone know what tapping tool i need please.
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Use one of your old head bolts grind 3 or 4 vertical slots in the bolt (Dremel tool cutter works well) and clean off any burrs. It can work better than a tap because: It is softer and wont remove too much metal; aswell as not being tapered it will clean out to the bottom of the hole.
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Done a bit of research Andy, It seems the extra stud length is not unusual for some reason. The threads are 12mm x 1.25 pitch.
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Are you using molly?????
This seems to be more rough for you than it should be. |
Heads Ahead.
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:)well the head is on now and torqued to 82.
yes used molly lube only a little though. i reckon of could of torqued them to 95 without feeling to nervous but i chickened out at 82. pleased the head is on though. iwas just about to attach the plenum manifold but i found a swich/valve looking thing that i unbolted not sure where from think it was either under the injector rail or under the plenum maqnifold ill post a picture of it to show you guys what it looks like.:x: |
Some real pics may be a bit more helpfull.
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can find camera lead at the moment this was all i could find. soz
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thats a vsv. if it was near the back of the engine, its for the egr and if near the front, for the fpr
stole this from cygnusx1's tsrm page. from this pic you can see there are two vsv's, and iirc they are different so dont get them confused. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTi.../vacuum_2l.gif |
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thanks for the info that really helped i now know its the front one cheers.
i havent posted many pics lately as i ve been waiting for parts. heres a few. heads on and torqued more tommorow. ment to ba a nice day too. the cam covers i used sand paper, hammerite smooth silver aerasol and hammerite smooth red paint. camer up really well. |
Nice one Andy, is that a camera lead poking out between the head and gasket in the first pic.?
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sorry bill i dont know where you mean bill:frown:
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i dont see anything in the first pic but in the third i see a wire that appears to come out of the valve cover gasket but its really the ground for the coil packs
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hi people glourious day but yet again im stuck,
the 2 vsv valces i cant see where there ment to sit in the engine i ve got the wires connected except the one that comes out of the rear vsv? but can see where to bolt the actual valves to. this is the only bit i really need to do befroe i put the plenum on. need some pics please of where they sit. many thanks guys. |
Are these any good Andy, the red X on the bolt head is only there as a reference for each pic,
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...f/DSCF3410.jpg http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...f/DSCF3411.jpg http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...f/DSCF3412.jpg Quote:
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thanks those pitures help a bit, the strange thing is i noticed on trsm that the vsv at the rear has a small tube coming off it leading to the 45 degree angle solid line, mine has a long piece of tubing which came from the top of the plenum.??? whys mine different??:help: yet again.
the trsm shows that the tubing mine goes to is incorect. if people could give a few pics to me of this part of the car and sourrounding pictures so im can use wsome as guidance when putting everything back together. the more the merryier. |
my 2 cents
i'd replace them with new ones
they don't seem like much but they do effect the air/fuel mixture where they bolt or hang from isn't as important |
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here are some pics to show where my lines run to notice at the top ofthe pllenum, where ones blanked off and the other leads behind the plenum going to the vsv valvve though in the other pic of the engine(borrowed pic)
it has 2 pipes running if diffrent directions to mine? |
if you look at the pic i posted before you will see that the one port blocked off would goto the bvsv on the thermostat housing (i dont know if you fellas in the uk have this, that would explain it being blocked off). as long as you have all the connections right, you dont need to use those metal lines. personally i see them as more possibilities of a vacuum leak.
edit: from your pics it looks as if someone tried to elimnate the use of the metal lines. |
yeah you right cause the vsv still geos to the right place just bypassing the lines
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That's yet another huge issue with first time owner/beginners of these cars.
You have to figure out what the other thousand shade tree mechanics in there before you have done. Once you get through this Andy. You'll never let anyone near the car without you. Especially when the bonnet is up. My buddies get mad because I won't let them smoke in the car or any of that. No one will ever get it like you'll get it when you finish. Everyones always going to be telling you that you should have gone a different route. It's not worth what you have in it. ya it's cool but DAMN. You got lucky with Bill showing up. He either has his car up so he can get the pics you need or he took good pics when he had it up. I know this because I can't go out and get those type of pics as mine sits. Alas. I am about to tear into it again:frown:. |
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hi supramacist, yeah looks like other people have messed around witht he car before.
garage mechanics get paid by the hour so what do they care how gentle they are with your car. i learnt that and will never let a garage touch my car. the weather was so hot today got seriously burnt to. ouch! got all the plenum, pipes and connectores on and the turbo today. reckon the car will be ready by the weekeend, if it works:x: whats wrong with your car? check these pics out see if you can tell me or show me with pictures what this attacheds to. |
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Difficult to say from your photos Andy, but that pipe looks like the one I've marked in the photos below, the hose sticking up at the top connects to the small metal vacuum pipe in front of the 3000 intake pipe. Supramacist was right I had the engine out last year to do a big end-repair and was able to take lots of pic`s,
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...riff/Pipe2.jpg http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b56/cirgriff/Pipe.jpg |
The captions inside the pics are an issue for me.
They cover up things I want to see and keep me from answering. At times. |
looks like the coolant line that runs to the throttle body/isc. does the other end go to a metal pipe that goes behind to motor?
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anyone got any pics of the fanbelt air con belt arrangement please took all the belts off cant remember what order they go back in deh!
no worries found it onthe trsm. didnt realise there was more to trsm than i orignaly noticed if only i noticedthat earlier would of helped me alot. thanks anyway. only a few hours away fro mstarting the car. got to put coil pack on. air intake throttle cables. fill up with power steering fluid .drian oil and replace with new and filter plus antifreeze an i m there me thinks. Any advice before sticking in the key (gulp) must admit im nervous . ps i have timed the cam with the 0 mark at the bottom but still a little confused about the cps and how to fine time it.??? |
The tsrm is the toyota tech book.
It has everything. |
turned on the ignition today and the engine management light came on. havent started yet gotta get some fuel and double check everything but can someone give me some advice on this. shouldnt the light go out before i starttye car??? my prelude goes out before i start the car. any help please.
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I think you mean the check engine light.
Before you even mess with starting it. Pull the codes. Cygnus X1 Home Page |
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really mate what could it mean i was on the verge of turning over the engine glad i didnt now??? confused..:(
just checked your link mate on how to check the codes and it stats that once connected start the car and check the codes yet you reckon i need to check the codes before i start the car.?: even more confused. this is how the engine looked today and 3 weeks ago. |
I'm Sorry man.
All you need to do to pull codes is turn the key without cranking on the engine. Using the jumper wire. You can turn it if you like. I just check that stuff before I even drag on the battery once these days. The engines either going to go or not. By pulling the codes 1st you know what you're getting into and if you should even crank on it. Once you get the codes you can remove the negative battery terminal they say for a minute or so. I like to give it a few..., like 15. I also unhook the entire battery to do this. But that's just me. This resets the the diagnostics. So you can retrieve codes again and know you aren't pulling the same ones. EDIT: The 2nd pic says blowby to me with that black throttle body and butterfly valve. |
hi people good news and bad news the car started after a little messing about with the cam position sensor but and theres always a but,
cylinder number 6 isnt fireing, the spark plug is sparking. i pulled the coil pack switch and turned the engine and the spark plug was dry? im thinking the injector but it was fine before i started the BHG, The other thing im thinking is compression im gonna check that tommorw and im nervous too. what should the compression be for these engines (7mgte)? any one else have any ideas. bugger:( p.s supramacist what do you mean a bout the throttle body. blowby?? |
In the pic the eye hole on the throttle body looks dark like you're getting oil in there through the air filter.
I had blowby before my rebuild. Is the only reason I noticed it. |
what you reckon on the problems i ve had today supramacist/bill.
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Dude my own roller is busted.
Use your tsrm. I'm seriously amp'd out after what i'm going through with this thing. There's a write up coming. Sorry to disapoint. :frown: EDIT: I'm an n/a. I think my comp is different than your's but I don't know. I'm taking tomorrow off. :) BUT I'll check in and out in case I can help any of you hip cats. Andy: I'll flip through my tsrm before I post here again and try to find you a link. |
How sure are you that timing is correct, did you strobe it? A strobe light connects to # 6 spark lead and this is the one you suspect being the problem. A spark at the plug can be deceiving; it may not be strong enough to ignite the fuel. If your HT leads, spark plugs and timing are ok, and as you say there are no signs of fuel on # 6 plug then I would check the plug and wiring going to the injector. You could swap the injector plugs over for 5 & 6, pull the igniter lead and turn the engine over to see if any fuel is coming through to either spark plug. I think it’s a question of elimination, if there are no signs of fuel in # 6 but fuel in #5 after swapping over the plugs then it must be the injector.
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hi bill, lovely weather hey>
no i havent had the strobe on it yet waiting forthe timing light so i can do this. i put a little bit of petrol down cylinder 6 and turned the car over andthe plug still came out wet? the compression on the cylinder 6 is 110 and the rest are between 120 and 130. ill get the light on it soon and time it then let you know how im getting on feeling little dishearted, also there is a little wine coming from somewhere im thinking the engoine is a little un balanced at the moment and this can cause unesssersary noise. |
timed up the car today bill with strobe, and jumper i did it on cylinder 1 but im not sure if was ment to be cylinder 6
the car sounds better but still definetly not right, lumpy sounds like its missing, defetly cant drive it yet noo way sounds awful. oh yeah one thing where do i bleed the collant? power steering ? dont know if it ll ever run right |
Coolant has a spout on the bottom of the driver side of the radiator.
Power steering. Undo the banjo bolt on the side of the p-stump. EDIT: I was a sleep this morning when I typed this. |
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