Another BHG

suprasabre · 02-21-2008, 06:51 PM

Okay, to use a metal head gasket, what can I do to the block to "clean it up enough" so a "bead" type gasket would work?

Also, I see the different thicknesses of the gaskets, how do I know (other then a stock 1.2mm) which to use? I'm assuming of course that this engine has never had the head gasket replaced.

From HSK Website:

11116-153195TOYOTA Supra 1986.5-1992 ; Engine Code: 7MG(T)EBead86-1.2$110.00

What other things do I need to know about the metal gaskets that hasn't been said so far?

I've been reading the different websites on it, but are there some that go into details about cleaning up the block?

I figure, if I'm going to this much trouble, doing it right would be nice.

And of course, thanks for the info so far!

h8z2luze · 02-21-2008, 07:50 PM

I just used a sanding block with very fine grit wet/dry sand paper after cleaning all the gasket material off. I used ARP Bolts and i was fine.... till i burned out a rod bearing but thats not the problem of the gasket or bolts lol. I used a regualr gasket the first time drove it maybe 100 miles and it blew again so ya the metal gasket is worth it by far.

supramacist · 02-21-2008, 07:57 PM

To find out the thickness of gasket you need.
You need to know how much the machinist removed from the head.

Go to: Performance Parts Aftermarket and Racing

Get the # when the tone asks for an extension..., dial 103.

You'll be speaking to dave. He can get you the gasket that you need.
With the info from the machinist, he'll go to a chart that will tell him
the thickness required.

I would seriously go beaded.

A MACHINED block. Not just a 2x4 and if you didn't sand on it for days.
You didn't do any good nor did you hurt anything. So long as you cleaned it out very very well.

You'll also be wanting arp studs or bolts.
You're going to need a volt meter and a torque wrench.
All of the seals you destroy during the tear down, you want to order them as soon as you have enough to constitute a real parts order.

I used a 2.mm stopper HKS. It's bloody beautiful.
You'll feel much better once you press the head down and retorque
the head to 80lbs. You'll know the difference and quick.

DO it right. Do it once.
research research research.

h8z2luze · 02-21-2008, 08:04 PM

so is it not worth it to buy the beaded 1.2mm gasket??? Is the stopper the only way to go?

supramacist · 02-21-2008, 08:12 PM

How much metal was removed from the head???
3/4 thousandths or 8/9.

Has the head ever been shaved before?
The thickness of the head comes into play here as well to determine what thickness of gap the MHG is compensating for.

HKS makes a beaded head gasket.

It was my personal first choice.

Until I found the stopper.

The stopper and arp hardware and alot of owner involved tlc.
It's as close to bullet proof as you can get.

And I own a N/A. And I'm modded out. About to get a set o gte cams for it.

The stopper is the shit. And the beaded used to be.

So you almost can't lose, going beaded either.

Spend the extra 150$. The going rate on the stopper 2.mm was 325 to 350 bucks.

My machinist removed 9 thousandths of material to compensate for the warpage that had occured.

h8z2luze · 02-21-2008, 08:19 PM

Im not sure they havent done it yet so I will know when they do i guess lol I got my bill paid down to 960 from 1250 so they are starting to grind the crank and do the block.

You say your modded out how much HP and Torque are you pushing?

supramacist · 02-22-2008, 12:11 AM

I haven't dyno'd anything and probably won't.

02-21-2008, 06:51 PM	#1
suprasabre Stock Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murrieta, CA Posts: 13	Okay, to use a metal head gasket, what can I do to the block to "clean it up enough" so a "bead" type gasket would work? Also, I see the different thicknesses of the gaskets, how do I know (other then a stock 1.2mm) which to use? I'm assuming of course that this engine has never had the head gasket replaced. From HSK Website: 11116-153195TOYOTA Supra 1986.5-1992 ; Engine Code: 7MG(T)EBead86-1.2$110.00 What other things do I need to know about the metal gaskets that hasn't been said so far? I've been reading the different websites on it, but are there some that go into details about cleaning up the block? I figure, if I'm going to this much trouble, doing it right would be nice. And of course, thanks for the info so far! __________________ Bob 89 Supra N/A 05 Honda ST1300 (motorcycle)

02-21-2008, 07:50 PM	#2
h8z2luze 12psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: Nor*Cal Posts: 338	I just used a sanding block with very fine grit wet/dry sand paper after cleaning all the gasket material off. I used ARP Bolts and i was fine.... till i burned out a rod bearing but thats not the problem of the gasket or bolts lol. I used a regualr gasket the first time drove it maybe 100 miles and it blew again so ya the metal gasket is worth it by far. __________________ 1989 Supra 7MGE MK3 5-speed project... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2385505

02-21-2008, 07:57 PM	#3
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	To find out the thickness of gasket you need. You need to know how much the machinist removed from the head. Go to: Performance Parts Aftermarket and Racing Get the # when the tone asks for an extension..., dial 103. You'll be speaking to dave. He can get you the gasket that you need. With the info from the machinist, he'll go to a chart that will tell him the thickness required. I would seriously go beaded. A MACHINED block. Not just a 2x4 and if you didn't sand on it for days. You didn't do any good nor did you hurt anything. So long as you cleaned it out very very well. You'll also be wanting arp studs or bolts. You're going to need a volt meter and a torque wrench. All of the seals you destroy during the tear down, you want to order them as soon as you have enough to constitute a real parts order. I used a 2.mm stopper HKS. It's bloody beautiful. You'll feel much better once you press the head down and retorque the head to 80lbs. You'll know the difference and quick. DO it right. Do it once. research research research. Last edited by supramacist; 02-21-2008 at 08:01 PM.

02-21-2008, 08:04 PM	#4
h8z2luze 12psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: Nor*Cal Posts: 338	so is it not worth it to buy the beaded 1.2mm gasket??? Is the stopper the only way to go? __________________ 1989 Supra 7MGE MK3 5-speed project... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2385505

02-21-2008, 08:19 PM	#6
h8z2luze 12psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: Nor*Cal Posts: 338	Im not sure they havent done it yet so I will know when they do i guess lol I got my bill paid down to 960 from 1250 so they are starting to grind the crank and do the block. You say your modded out how much HP and Torque are you pushing? __________________ 1989 Supra 7MGE MK3 5-speed project... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2385505

02-21-2008, 08:12 PM	#5
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	How much metal was removed from the head??? 3/4 thousandths or 8/9. Has the head ever been shaved before? The thickness of the head comes into play here as well to determine what thickness of gap the MHG is compensating for. HKS makes a beaded head gasket. It was my personal first choice. Until I found the stopper. The stopper and arp hardware and alot of owner involved tlc. It's as close to bullet proof as you can get. And I own a N/A. And I'm modded out. About to get a set o gte cams for it. The stopper is the shit. And the beaded used to be. So you almost can't lose, going beaded either. Spend the extra 150$. The going rate on the stopper 2.mm was 325 to 350 bucks. My machinist removed 9 thousandths of material to compensate for the warpage that had occured.

02-22-2008, 12:11 AM	#7
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	I haven't dyno'd anything and probably won't.