Blown Head Gasket repair w/pics

Bruno Molly · 10-11-2009, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

"No offense, IHateHacks, but apparently the 5 impacts that you were using to get the crank pulley bolt off were shit."

Yes I agree the craftsman was a POS, but the titanium series IR and the last one I used that required 120psi were definitely not junk. I talked to some other professional mechanics and they said that I should have used a 3/4" impact gun. And I was just being sarcastic about patenting that little trick. It says it right in the TSRM. I just didnt want to f-up one of the teeth on the flywheel, but when there is no other choice, I quickly overcame my fear.

"By the way, the pry bar in the starter is nothing new."

It wasn't in the starter, it was in the starter hole in the bellhousing. And if you were doing it for years why didnt you drop a dime and help me out before when I was asking- "Except for the starter method, how does everyone else loosen their crank bolt?"

No offense but it seems that most (not all) people here are more about 1-uping each other and claiming that they are superior, then about helping each other. To be frank I really dont care how long you say you've been a mechanic or about how you brag you've done something before. I respect someone much much more when they just drop a hint about what Im having trouble with. Those are the people that make me say damn that guy knows his stuff. Sorry, you just made me mad claiming all 5 of the guns were junk when you've never even seen them, you just make a blind assumption. The guns werent even mine so I dont know why Im even mad. Its the fact that you just come to a conclusion with no information other than they didn't get off the crank bolt. Remember a properly torqued 7M crank bolt is torqued to 195 ft-lbs. Most other manufacturers only require around 100 ft-lbs. Those guns take off crank bolts everyday at a BMW dealership because the crank bolts aren't torqued to 195 ft-lbs. All crank bolts are not created equal, but you should have known that.

Sometimes people use Locktite Thread locker which can complicate things.....You never know what you will find working on something someone else has worked on before you... Jus my 2Cents

Devicehead · 10-21-2009, 09:25 PM

Hi boys n' girls. New to the boards here. Thought I'd chime in on my rebuild project: 1987 Turbo.
The Story:
After a brief road race with a guy that works a couple doors down from me, the car started running bad with missfires and the like. After about a few failed attempts at quick-fixing it, I decided to finally thrash into it and get to the root of the problems.
Pulled the cylinder head and found the culprit!

Head Gasket - Blown between Cylinder 1 and 2. Fail. -.-
After further inspection of the lower end, (Block and pistons) I decided the whole engine was going to need rebirthing. So I sent the block and head out for re-machining.
While that was going on, I decided a fresh engine was worthy of a respectable home so I gutted the rest of the car and prepped it for competition re-assembling. >

And Then things started to brighten up a bit...

Then the engine arrived...

I'll have more pics of the head and other stuff later but, were getting close to going back in with the powerplant.

Tony · 10-23-2009, 10:37 PM

(From my thread http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-problems.html)

Hey everyone,

I bought my 88 Supra Turbo with a BHG a while back, and have since done the following to it:

New HG and upper gasket set
ARP Bolts (70ft/lb)
Different turbo head purchased (old was warped .020")
Head machined flat, checked, and valves reseated
Set of completely refurbished fuel injectors (ultrasonically cleaned and flow tested)
Vacuum systed completely gone through and everything is properly connected.
Also tested every coil pack for spark (looked for spark in a removed plug attached to each coil pack)

Feels like a cylinder or two isn't firing.
Here's a video (don't mind the squeak, alternator belt is not tensioned all the way)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BudtjtPh70

The car starts but runs terribly, once the RPMs go past 2500, all power is lost until it drops below that.
If you keep the accelerator floored, it will go up past 2500 RPMS, then fall back to it over and over.

Can someone help me?
I want to get this thing on the road!

10-21-2009, 09:25 PM	#2
Devicehead Stock Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Maryland Posts: 5	Hi boys n' girls. New to the boards here. Thought I'd chime in on my rebuild project: 1987 Turbo. The Story: After a brief road race with a guy that works a couple doors down from me, the car started running bad with missfires and the like. After about a few failed attempts at quick-fixing it, I decided to finally thrash into it and get to the root of the problems. Pulled the cylinder head and found the culprit! Head Gasket - Blown between Cylinder 1 and 2. Fail. -.- After further inspection of the lower end, (Block and pistons) I decided the whole engine was going to need rebirthing. So I sent the block and head out for re-machining. While that was going on, I decided a fresh engine was worthy of a respectable home so I gutted the rest of the car and prepped it for competition re-assembling. > And Then things started to brighten up a bit... Then the engine arrived... I'll have more pics of the head and other stuff later but, were getting close to going back in with the powerplant. Last edited by Devicehead; 10-21-2009 at 09:42 PM.

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10-23-2009, 10:37 PM	#3
Tony Stock Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Indiana Posts: 15	(From my thread http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-problems.html) Hey everyone, I bought my 88 Supra Turbo with a BHG a while back, and have since done the following to it: New HG and upper gasket set ARP Bolts (70ft/lb) Different turbo head purchased (old was warped .020") Head machined flat, checked, and valves reseated Set of completely refurbished fuel injectors (ultrasonically cleaned and flow tested) Vacuum systed completely gone through and everything is properly connected. Also tested every coil pack for spark (looked for spark in a removed plug attached to each coil pack) Feels like a cylinder or two isn't firing. Here's a video (don't mind the squeak, alternator belt is not tensioned all the way) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BudtjtPh70 The car starts but runs terribly, once the RPMs go past 2500, all power is lost until it drops below that. If you keep the accelerator floored, it will go up past 2500 RPMS, then fall back to it over and over. Can someone help me? I want to get this thing on the road!