Blown Head Gasket repair w/pics

[Spudboy]

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

I agree totally. Do it right, do it once. And do it yourself.

As far as the ARP's, I'm a big fan of ARP bolts. Ease of installation with ARP's unsurpassed quality. And unless you are running over 500whp, I don't think ARP studs are needed. Unless you like juggling studs, washers AND nuts all covered in ARP moly lube. I prefer to juggle just bolts and washers. Plus its a tight fit inbetween the lifter bore castings for ARP bolts but it IS possible without machining the castings. I've "HEARD" that studs DO fit without removing the block from the engine bay but I've never used studs on a supra so I can not verify. I can only verify that bolts fit without any problems, it was actually fun installing the head bolts!!

So you're saying you have ARP bolts, not studs with seperate nuts?
I wasn't given a choice but maybe I can exchange the stud/nut set I have for just bolts. Would be much easier.

[IHateHacks]

I would think by my last post, my sig and the picture in this thread of my ARP bolts that you would know what I used. Yes, I used ARP bolts.

No don't return the ARP studs. Since you already bought them, use them. They are indestructable. I now wish I used them just for the bragging rights lol. But hey, do you. It's your car.

[Spudboy]

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

I would think by my last post, my sig and the picture in this thread of my ARP bolts that you would know what I used. Yes, I used ARP bolts.

No don't return the ARP studs. Since you already bought them, use them. They are indestructable. I now wish I used them just for the bragging rights lol. But hey, do you. It's your car.

I wasn't sure if you 'say' bolts but really meant studs with nuts. I was not offered a choice so I didn't know I had one. At this point I would prefer bolts. So far these studs and nuts are a real pain. I need to look at some other threads for some ideas on the install.

My guess is the advantage to stud/nut combo is better and more consistant torque values. It will be worth it if I don't ever have another BHG.

Once I figure out this obsticle I will explain later.

[Spudboy]

Originally Posted by Spudboy

I wasn't sure if you 'say' bolts but really meant studs with nuts. I was not offered a choice so I didn't know I had one. At this point I would prefer bolts. So far these studs and nuts are a real pain. I need to look at some other threads for some ideas on the install.

My guess is the advantage to stud/nut combo is better and more consistant torque values. It will be worth it if I don't ever have another BHG.

Once I figure out this obsticle I will explain later.

Hey Bill UK...or anybody whose done it...I have ARP studs. I thought a good idea would be to install studs first then gently lower the head on. Turns out this doesn't work as the heater union hits the firewall lip. I don't think I can remove the union then fit it back on later as the big 32mm socket wont fit. Now the dilema is can I install these studs after I seat the head...not much room to hand tighten the studs well. How did you do it???

[IHateHacks]

Fit the cylinder head onto the dowel pins in the block. Then take the washers and drop them over the head bolt holes. Next take the allen head wrench that came with your ARP stud kit and thread the studs into the block with the allen head wrench, DO NOT TORQUE THE STUDS WITH THE ALLEN WRENCH. The allen wrench is ONLY to install the studs, not to torque them. Then take the nuts and carefully thread them on. Don't forget to liberally coat all threads with ARP moly lube. Use 5 separate passes to work up to your final torque value. Make sure all head bolt threads in the cylinder block are spotless, any dirt, debris or liquid will throw torque values off significantly.

[Spudboy]

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

Fit the cylinder head onto the dowel pins in the block. Then take the washers and drop them over the head bolt holes. Next take the allen head wrench that came with your ARP stud kit and thread the studs into the block with the allen head wrench, DO NOT TORQUE THE STUDS WITH THE ALLEN WRENCH. The allen wrench is ONLY to install the studs, not to torque them. Then take the nuts and carefully thread them on. Don't forget to liberally coat all threads with ARP moly lube. Use 5 separate passes to work up to your final torque value. Make sure all head bolt threads in the cylinder block are spotless, any dirt, debris or liquid will throw torque values off significantly.

That sounds swell IF my studs had any hex or way to get an allen or any other kind of wrench on them. They don't. They are just studs...threaded on both ends just like your factory exhaust manifold studs, et al.

I'll keep ya'al posted if (when) I figure something out.

[Spudboy]

Originally Posted by Spudboy

That sounds swell IF my studs had any hex or way to get an allen or any other kind of wrench on them. They don't. They are just studs...threaded on both ends just like your factory exhaust manifold studs, et al.

I'll keep ya'al posted if (when) I figure something out.

MY BAD...There is a 5mm allen hex on one side. I was wanting to install upside down as the thread depth seemed to match the original bolts that way. Maybe the ARP studs are slightly different to accommodate the thicker MLS gasket?
I hope so. If not I wont get high enough torque. I better trust ARP until proven otherwise. Thanks for your help hack. It was getting late last night and I needed a sanity check and some sleep.

No problem with the torgue and thread depth concern I had. 80 ft-lb. Moving on.