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Old 12-31-2006, 09:10 PM   #1
IHateHacks
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I stripped the head of everything but the cams. I'll have a picture up tomarrow. I'm doing all of this to show all the people who aren't mechanics that anyone can do a head gasket job. You don't have to be superman. You just need the knowledge. Speaking of which, to anyone who wants to know how to get the heater union off (that fitting that the heater hose goes on on the top back of the engine) you'll need a 32mm deep socket.
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Old 01-01-2007, 04:03 PM   #2
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Sending it out today. Next picture will be it looking brand new. Here's a picture of the good ol' EGR cooler. I can see this being the source of a mysterious coolant leak via that big stupid plug Toyota felt the need for putting in there. Ill ask it again (just like the 4 plugs that hold on the no. 3 cylinder head cover) Why did Toyota just throw plugs (at rediculous sizes) in various areas throughout the 7M? Its not like they serve any purpose on planet earth. Why didn't they just cast it over like the rest of the head? I think its pay back for buying a car just because its turbocharged. Compared to other manufacturers Toyota design sucks dick.

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Old 01-03-2007, 04:05 PM   #3
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Does this surface look good enough for a metal head gasket?
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Old 01-04-2007, 02:04 AM   #4
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it doesn't look good in the picture.
it needs to be smoother than a babies ass .
the metal is not forgiving where as the carbon or whatever the stock is made from is forgiving.
you might want to re-think it . i put a metal gasket on a block that looked good enough to me once and it lasted about 10k miles . once you do put a metal gasket on it's not likely that you are gonna start boosting less . no infact you'll probably start pushing more into the cylinders to really test the
smooth theory .. you know . i have a lapping tool over here
you've seen some of my bhg footage ?
http://www.ddmcse.com/turbo/bhg_2003.htm
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Old 01-04-2007, 06:27 PM   #5
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The picture really doesnt do it justice. It is really smooth, and looks like a f-in mirror. But I'm gonna play it safe and use a dealer head gasket. Please forgive my inexperience but what is a lapping tool? I used a whiz wheel with very fine grit Scotch 3M on the block, which made it look all swirlly, like it polished the metal. I really never knew cast iron could look like that. But what do I know this is my first head gasket job ever.

Im not liking the idea of it blowing again after 10,000 miles so stock it is.

Still haven't gotten the head back yet. I'm very anxious to put her back together.

Just for those who want to know I've decided to use ARP studs instead of bolts. Do the cams have to be out to torque the ARP nuts?
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Old 01-05-2007, 01:01 AM   #6
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u can see the lapping tool on my website, it's sitting on the block a round disc
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Old 01-05-2007, 03:01 AM   #7
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OK so did you use a metal head gasket on that block that you lapped?

What's all that gray slime that's all in the coolant passages?

I'm beginning to think I used the wrong thing on my block, but a mechanic friend that works at Mauro Motors BMW of North Haven uses the same thing on aluminum blocks and says it's fine. He actually supplied the equipment and did the work to my block.

I'm going to get a close up pic of my block tomarrow morning.
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Old 08-24-2007, 04:19 PM   #8
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Looks like you sent your head to the machine shop with cams, valves and cam timing belt pulleys still on?

That didn't cause any problems for them or you?

How did they leak and crack test your head?


Quote:
Originally Posted by IHateHacks
The picture really doesnt do it justice. It is really smooth, and looks like a f-in mirror. But I'm gonna play it safe and use a dealer head gasket. Please forgive my inexperience but what is a lapping tool? I used a whiz wheel with very fine grit Scotch 3M on the block, which made it look all swirlly, like it polished the metal. I really never knew cast iron could look like that. But what do I know this is my first head gasket job ever.

Im not liking the idea of it blowing again after 10,000 miles so stock it is.

Still haven't gotten the head back yet. I'm very anxious to put her back together.

Just for those who want to know I've decided to use ARP studs instead of bolts. Do the cams have to be out to torque the ARP nuts?
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Old 08-24-2007, 09:51 PM   #9
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What is this (shinny silver) 1st picture? Drivers right, lower front of block.

When I was disconnecting wires this plastic grey cap came off the "What is this" very easy. The wire and it's connector underneath doesn't make sense to me as to how or where it connects.



Last edited by Spudboy; 08-24-2007 at 09:55 PM.
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Old 04-07-2007, 02:46 PM   #10
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my bad, I didn't realize there were many more replys after the crank pulley removal. Whoops
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