Ok back on topic now, It's been very warm here today and I got some more things done. But I have questions that maybe someone, that has replaced their headgasket themselves, could answer.

TSRM does not list a torque spec for the EGR valve nuts (where it bolts to the head, actually the lower intake) EGR bolts (where it bolts to the upper intake) or the water outlet housing bolt and nuts.

So I used an inch pound torque wrench because aluminum is nothing to f-around with as it will strip out even with a ft lb torque wrench.

I torqued the EGR nuts to 144 inch pounds (12 ft/lbs). I torqued the water outlet housing bolt and 2 nuts to 132 inch pounds (11 ft/lbs), now they are the same size nuts/studs, 12mm size nut and 8mm size stud, but we all know studs are much stronger than bolts so that is why I did that. Now all of these bolts/studs/nuts are the same size as the intake manifold bolts/studs/nuts and the TSRM says 13 ft/lbs for them yet it says 9 ft/lbs for 8mm diameter bolts in the back of the TSRM where it gives general torque specs for specific bolt sizes and strengths.

These parts are very important to have torqued correctly seeing as pressurized coolant and exhaust gas pass through them, I don't know why Toyota just forgot to list the torque spec.

My question is what did you (anybody that has done it before) torque these bolts/studs to?

So I guess nobody has ever taken the water outlet housing or the EGR valve off their car before?

It's not really a big deal, just thought I'd ask and see how on point this site is.

If anybody would know, it would probably be Bill UK, or suprra_girl.

Apologies for not responding sooner, I'm in the process of changing over to broadband from Internet dial-up, had a few problems. I only used the torque wrench for head bolts and internal parts of the engine. I would often just go by experience and common sense, taking in account the material and size of thread. It sounds if you have a good mechanical mind, I can only suggest go by what you feel is right.

Thanks Bill UK. I guess I'm just anal about making sure everything is on tight.

I just finished putting the whole intake manifold side back on. Torqued the intake bolts/nuts to 156in/lbs (13ft/lbs), ISC valve to 108 in/lbs (9ft/lbs) and the 10mm EGR bolts to 96in/lbs (8ft/lbs).

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00591.jpg

looks so clean. im a lil further than halfway done with mine. just needa pull the exhaust manifold and stuff off. i hope it comes out looking liek that

I spent about as much time cleaning the parts when they were off as I did actually wrenching. And they are so clean thanks to about 10 cans of brake cleaner.

I now have only one more question for Bill UK. I remember you saying that you messed up and didn't pull the block drain when you removed the head and coolant got down into the oil pan. I did the same thing but I am planning on changing the oil and filter before I start it. Its been sitting in there since January. Did you mean you messed up and ran the motor like that? Or did you change the oil and still have a problem?

Thanks again!!! You're the man!!

oh so i just read tonys post and it says if the oil looks foamy dats a sign of water jacket to oil passage equals BHG...well i checked my oil last time and it had some foam on it buh when i check it later it wasnt htere no more..the car doesnt show n e other sign of bhg...unless oil on top of spark plug is a sign..my car is sluggish buh dats due to the clutch wearing itself out badly.....theres no other way around it buh to get a new HG is there...and one last question i did my research but cant find how much torque does the stock clutch handle..unless i am wrong and kwnate really did write that it can handle 275torque ty...sry didnt mean to write 400 troque earlier

Installed brand new NGK Iridium IX's torqued to 144in/lbs (12ft/lbs). I know the TSRM says 13ft/lbs but I don't trust Toyota's aluminum anymore. It's really an inferior quality aluminum, but thats another story for another thread that I will make at a later time.

All I have to do is drain the oil (hard to do with a foot of snow on the ground), install the radiator, fan and turbo and I can fire it up. I will let you guys know what happens as soon as I can.

Spent all day reconditioning the turbo oil return line flange on the block. It was really really bad and space is non existant so thats why it took all day, it was a real bitch.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00595.jpg

Almost there!!!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00598.jpg

Tomarrow is judgement day for this royal piece of shit.

Now its show and tell time!!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00601.jpg

This is what happens to your factory head bolts torqued to 58ft/lbs. So retorquing factory head bolts are not going to do a good god damn with threads like this.

It runs!!!!!

I still have to bleed the coolant, set base ignition timing, and then road test it.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00602.jpg

I would like to thank everyone who posted when I needed help, especially Bill_UK, I couldn't have done it without you!!

I will post my results after I road test it tomarrow.

Coolant is bled, base ignition timing is set to 11 degrees BTDC (I know stock is 10). Drove it for about 20 minutes straight, hit full boost twice, and the temp stayed right on the 7th mark on the stock gauge and my aftermarket gauge stayed inbetween 195-205F. TSRM says that full thermostat lift is at 212F and I didn't even come close to that so I think its ok. Only time will tell...........

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00603.jpg

congrats on the rebuild . it's a great feeling . i'll stop by and see you soon

Thanks Dan. Yeah, now let's see how long it lasts.

Took it on 84 yesterday, cruised at like 70 boosted it a couple times gauge read consistently at 195-200, then when I got off and waited at a stop light it crept up to around 205 but never got any higher than that.

Then today I just grandma'd it around backroads for a few minutes and when I got home I shut it off and the gauge read this-

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00605.jpg

Now before I shut it off it was on the other side of 190 (around 195) but as soon as I shut it off (gauge is hooked up to ACC) the gauge reads 185. So I guess my guage is like 5-10 degrees inaccurate. Thats what I get for buying a cheapo electric temp gauge.

And whoever sticky'd this, wow thanks I'm flattered, I really am. I never thought I'd make a lasting impression on this site. Thanks again!

i drove mine on 95 today for about 30 miles , ran at about 80 mph (on average) my gauge stayed stuck on 170 on the way back i took back roads , same temp . have you hit FCO yet ?

Nope haven't hit fuel cut yet because I'm only running 7psi. Too scared to up the boost....yet.

Today it is kinda brisk out, around 40 degrees (past 2 days were like 65), so I took it for a long half hour drive. It drives like a dream (I did replace every single fluid in this car, trans, diff, coolant, oil, PS) Never got higher than 195F today and thats under full boost (7psi lol) and it really stayed below 190 most of the time, so I know ambient temp definately has something to do with my coolant temp. So I'm pretty much convinced its ok, for now. Like you said Dan, the paranoia will never fully go away, only gets lesser.

My super monitor reset to 0.0 because I had the battery disconnected for 3 months and has been working its way up. I drove it 20 miles so far and its up to 13.4mpg and will continue to go up the more I drive it. It was 18.7 before I started this thread (with a BHG). Which is pretty damn good for having a BHG.

you gotta love this cool,crisp air for boosting !

lets you sneak in an extra lb or two

if you look at my dyno run you'll see run #3 is when i hit FCO

I know I sound like a broken record, but I don't care. Took it back on 84 today and really beat the shit out of it. I kinda felt bad, but the way I look at it is, its like going to the doctor and getting poked and proded and stuck with a few needles to make sure your alright :) sure it hurts at first, but at least you know you aren't dying!

Its definately got more power, I was almost afraid to leave it at WOT. Gauge read 200. Got home and broke out my infrared thermometer and with the engine running and gauge reading close to 200 (probably like 197) my infrared thermometer never got above 190 when taking the reading on the water outlet housing and the thermostat housing. Then, sure enough, I shut it off and the gauge read a little below 190 (probably 187).

And Dan, April 6th is fine. You better bring your supra :cool: I don't wanna see that toyota truck :whateva: (Just kidding!!)

Edit: Dan, is that you driving the car on the dyno? Or are you filming it? And 302rwhp!?! That thing is sick. Sounds pissed. Now I definitely HAVE to see this car in person.

the place won't let you drive it while on the dyno.
i did the dyno at bristol dyno but they moved to hartford

Car has been running fine. I just ordered a new O2 ($170.60 retail, with my discount I paid $127) and ECT (73.30 retail, my price $59.31).

I've been having cold start problems ever since the first day I owned the car 2 years ago. On only cold start (car sitting over 12 hours) it would start good but idle like a piece of crap and stumble at like 400rpm, sometimes stalling, sometimes not. But it would always start and idle perfect on the second try. On warm start up it was perfect also. So I thought I'd replace the cold start injector time switch (I ohm tested my stock one and at 50F degrees ambient temperature it measured 37.5 ohms, well within spec)......$150 from the dealer!!!!!!!! My price would be $135, but still!!!!! That is unbelievable!!!!

the cold start injector could be wasted in black soot

Not after I pulled it out on the rebuild and cleaned the shit out of it. Oh, it was wasted, but it looks brand new now with all new gaskets/sealing washers.

I thought after I replaced the HG and every other gasket attached to the cylinder head that it would fix the problem, but it acts EXACTLY the same as it did the day I bought it. It has no effect on the drivability, only cold starts, thats why I'm thinking the time switch, but you could be right, the cold start injector could be F'ed.

Theres no way to test the cold start injector on the 7MGTE (only the GE), so if I'm pulling it off to test it, I'm replacing it.

Just found out that side view mirror glass is discontinued from the dealer. They had the balls to take my money and wait a day just so they can tell me that.

I was worried that the O2 didn't come with a new gasket, and for $170 it better. It did and I was happy.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00607.jpg

Well seeing that my previous O2 had a yellow connector and this one has a grey (89+) I am assuming that my yellow one was the factory O2 sensor. Suppost to change those every 50K miles on a MK3 supra. I can't believe mine still worked with 120K on it.

Engine Coolant Temperature sensor looked ok. But first off, it didn't come with a new copper sealing washer (same part # as the turbo oil feed line washers, fuel rail feed line washers and CSI line to fuel rail washers) so I was pissed and had to reuse the old one, which worked out fine. And second with it fully installed and torqued the sensor was "upside down". Meaning the harness had to be 180 degrees to where it sat for 20 years, just to slide on the sensor. If anyone has every messed with their ECT they know that the harness is not flexible at all. But I made it happen, and it worked out just fine.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00606.jpg

I did all of this so there would be no doubt about passing emissions (I'm up for it in May). I cleaned out the EGR passages during the rebuild so that is not going to be an issue either. Not to mention the improved gas mileage/performance I'm going to see. Then after I pass emissions, I'm buying a full 3" HKS exhaust (including HKS downpipe) with test pipe.

I'm going to replace the CSI time switch sometime this month so we'll see what happens.

Well Dan, all I have to say is you are one crazy motherf*cker. That was the ride of my life. You have one fast supra my friend. I loved it when you started to get sideways in second gear. It was like, first you had traction until the turbo spooled and then it just got sideways. That is pissed. Not to mention the Spec NUR exhaust you got. Hands down probably the most pissed off supra in CT.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...SC00610mod.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...SC00609mod.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00608.jpg

hey Hack can you tell me if its your cold start injector thats making it idle like crap on cold weather when you get it. because mines idle like crap too when i start it on a cold weather

man that white supra looks great.. White is a good color on these cars, mine is an ice blueish, who's is the white one?

i drive that supra like Steve McQueen would -LOL

The white one is mine.

You really scared the shit out of me Dan.

And we were talking today about supras and their head gaskets and how stout the 7M really is. Pretty much every stock supra head gasket is blown, EVERY single one. And yet the motors will continue to run 50K, 60K even 100K miles. So if you have a stock head gasket with stock bolts, you can bet your life that it is blown.

crank pulley removal
 

Dude, I had the same problem

No help really with tool support. The impacts don't work.

I ended up pulling the starter and wedging one of my long pry bars in the teeth to hold the crank. Granted I had the motor out at the time so it was easier.
Just use a 1/2" 19mm with a long bar and it will break loose pretty easily. The flywheel is much larger, so the torque on the tooth is not a real issue, but be sure you have good surface contact and not a point load.

Hope this helps out.

No need for the SST, Waste of money.

my bad, I didn't realize there were many more replys after the crank pulley removal. Whoops

hey how much does it cost to resurface and lap both top and bottom block...and one more question my idle is funny i know my timing is off because the last owner retarded the shit out of it..but i got it to idle at 900rpm buh on cold nights itll idle around 1200-1100 im thinkin my HG is going bad now


Just to say the last previous owner is a machanic and he said he replaced it with a metal gasket but my concern is that hes lieing

yama1- Thanks for the input (about 2 months too late lol) thats exactly what I did, prybar in the flywheel worked so F'ing good. The intake manifold was off so it was easy to stick a prybar in there and see what the F*ck I was doing.

88Tsupra- I paid $200 for all my machine work (if you cared to read this entire thread and see my price break downs) which included a valve adjustment, cleaning, checking for cracks/warpage, planed, and welding and rethreading exhaust manifold stud threads. If you just get the head cleaned and planed it will not cost more than $80, $100 MAX any shop that charges you more than that for a plane and cleaning is ripping you off. Block is a totally different story, I have no clue how much it would cost but if you are going to have a machine shop hit the block surface, since the engine will be out of the car and completly stripped, you're better off totally building the engine: rods, pistons the whole 9.

My only advice to your other problems is to set your base ignition timing and maybe start your own thread, no sense jacking this one as it is 15+ pages long and I'd bet not half the people that look at this thread read EVERY post word for word.

Little update: I was washing my car the other day, vacuumed the whole interior, and detailed the exterior (inside of the doors, under the hatch, etc) and when I was done I just, for no particular reason, looked under the car to make sure nothing was leaking. And sure enough, my downpipe is completely covered in oil. At first I thought it was water since I just washed it, but nope it was engine oil. At first I started flipping out, panicking, trying to think where it was coming from while I dug out my hydraulic jack. So I climb under there and its getting on the downpipe via the downpipe brace. So I further climb under there and I pinpoint it to the turbo oil return pipe, where it bolts to the block. Now I distinctly remember torqueing those 2 nuts to 108in/lbs, just like the TSRM and the Haynes manual said. It was a bitch to fit a torque wrench down there, but I did, and I remember doing it. So I proceed to take the turbo heat shield and dipstick back out so I can try and tighten them a little more. And those motherf*ckers turned another 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn!! TSRM is a lying piece of crap. I was so pissed. The TSRM says in bold letters on page EM-37 "Install oil pipe, 9ft/lbs" Now that is for the oil pipe to turbo nuts, which I did and that wasn't leaking at all. Then on page EM-38 for the oil pipe to block: "torque the oil pipe union bolt and flange nuts" Bolt 25ft/lbs (I did that and it was fine no leaks on the feed line) Nut 9ft/lbs which is WRONG. It should be: torque "as tight as you can get it". Because actually I tightened them once, drove it and it was still leaking so I had to get in there again and I just gorilla'd those f*ckers as tight as I could. Needless to say its fine now. I think I'm going to write my own TSRM with torque values for those nuts, the water outlet housing, EGR bolts and nuts, ECT sensor and a real life solution to how to get the crank pulley off. It just pisses me off that I spent $125 on a manual for this car and it 1. doesn't give you all the torque specs and 2. on the ones it does, half of them are wrong. A little side note, the O2 housing to turbo nuts, the TSRM says 38 ft/lbs and the Haynes says 32ft/lbs. Then, it gives you the torque spec on the turbo to exhaust manifold nuts, 33ft/lbs, Yeah I'd like to see anyone get a torque wrench on those nuts. Its impossible. Maybe if you had one of those torque wrench adaptor wrenches (like you use on dirtbike engines) and then you would have to do all kinds of calculations to find out what to set the torque wrench to, to get 33ft/lbs. So they give you torque values where you can't use them, but where it matters they just leave you hanging. I can go on and on with pointing out the TSRM's flaws but I'm sure you are all sick of my bitching so I'll stop now.

On a lighter note, it was a beautiful morning and I just loved how the light hit my car so I just had to take a pic and post it. Makes me thankful for what I have.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00611.jpg

your gana have to
1 do the put in gear method * but use a impact wrench so it use's more pressure than ur ratchit
2 lock up the motor somehow with the starter

:roflwtf:
Wow.

The job is done, its been done for about a month. Care to read past the first page? And no, putting the car in gear with an air wrench still doesn't work. And yes, I have more torqueing power with my hands than with any air gun, so, wrong again.

Lock up the motor with the starter? :gtfo:

the good old 7m
 

hey how u guys doing ,7m there is no cure for the head gasket

Moron.....