Just finished rebuilding the stock fuel injectors. Installed the fuel rail and intake manifold. It's a shame I don't have the money for 550's.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00574.jpg

Really can't believe the weather I've been having here. It was 9 degrees F today with a -10 F wind chill. Can't get anything done with numb hands. I picked the perfect time to change a head gasket. Better now than to have to have the car down for the summer. Don't have to drive it in all the salt on the roads at least.

its been about that cold here also. since i drive my car in the winter i have to spray it down every night to get the salt off. my hands are about frozen when i am done.

Finished cleaning the cam position sensor. New o-ring, cover and seal.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00578.jpg

Just for the record and for anyone that does this in the future. If you remember back on one of the pages I was worried that the No.2 timing belt cover was going to hit the lower timing belt case because the machine shop planed the head, but didn't plane the cover. Well there was plenty of space. It is not an issue. Just as Bill UK said.

I might of missed it because i kind ascanned through this thread but did u retorque higher then 70ft lbs? might want to try 75 ft lbs. Most guys are running 72-85ft that ive talked too.

How much did they charge you for those few o rings and seals for the cam sensor? I bought a plain o ring from a toyota dealership for my 22r truck and they got 8 bucks for it. i said screw it and bought it because its made out of somthing special but damn it prob cost 5 cents to make em.

Yeah I wimped out and only torqued to 70 ft/lbs. I know what everyone else torques to. Ive heard of people going as high as 90 ft/lbs. Cam covers and all the braces (turbo to block, intake manifold to block, turbo oil line) and are still off so I can still torque it whenever I want. Its very frustrating having all the parts to put it back together but its too f-in cold to work on it.

I bought these at a Toyota dealer.

Cam position sensor O-ring- $2.35
Cam position sensor cover - $5.70
Cam position sensor cover gasket- $2.92

burton51m Now thats some supra love

IHateHacks What did you do to rebuild the injectors??

I disassembled them, cleaned them and replaced all of the seals.

I just fell into some extra money recently so it looks like I'll be getting a TMS downpipe and testpipe.

I'll post pics when it gets warmer.

you got an elbow gutted out ?

Its all or nothing... Just like ricky bobby says "If you aint first, your last"

yea we had one day with -10, -30 with wind chill. im lucky i have a heated parking garage to work on shit lol, i think my oil return sprung a minor gasket leak.

"you got an elbow gutted out ?"

Nope, the TMS downpipe has the O2 housing built into it. The TMS downpipe bolts directly to the turbine housing, eliminating the stock elbow. Suprastore advertises a 20hp gain with an HKS dp and the HKS doesn't replace the o2 housing, you must use the stock one with it, so the TMS is obviously better. Plus the TMS is 3" mandrel bent stainless steel. I love stainless.

Kuban, remember turbo oil pipe nuts should only be torqued to 9 ft/lbs. And make sure the mating surfaces don't have any old gasket material left over, which is very hard to do since the studs get in the way of cleaning the surface.

did you used to hit fuel cut before ?

what are your plans for fco ?

"did you used to hit fuel cut before ?

what are your plans for fco ?"

No.

Walbro 255lph.

I'm sorry, I don't quite understand....who was that post to?

Don't feel bad. 'The Driver' has offered some decent info/help over the past week or 2.

perhaps he had a 'bad day'.

But, perhaps with this next week off, he'll do some reflecting, and recover.

[QUOTE=IHateHacks]http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00523.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00524.jpg

I need a little help. I have every single sensor connector disconnected except one. It is the one that goes to the top of the R154 trans. There is no way a I can get to it. Its a 2 wire connector and its white. I think the wires are yellow and red, but I can't remember. It's not the speed sensor. I think it is the backup light switch. How do I disconnect it? Drop the trans? Anyone ever have this problem when doing a head gasket on a manual turbo car?
QUOTE]

I just put a new head gasket on my supra and that wiring runs over the top and then down the drivers side of your tranny. If I remember correctly there are bolts that hold it onto the tranny.

Do you have any more pics of your engine around the starter area. I have a couple of plugs on my wiring harness and I cant find out where they go.

I need a little help. I have every single sensor connector disconnected except one. It is the one that goes to the top of the R154 trans. There is no way a I can get to it. Its a 2 wire connector and its white. I think the wires are yellow and red, but I can't remember. It's not the speed sensor. I think it is the backup light switch. How do I disconnect it? Drop the trans? Anyone ever have this problem when doing a head gasket on a manual turbo car?
QUOTE]


just cut the wires off and when you are done...splice them with weather tight but connectors....it'll work fine...

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...23_47_full.jpg
Is it the 2 white connectors (they were connected) or is it the one hanging down in middle?

QUICK question i have oil near the fan belt i dont know whas its called buh its the metal shit that connects the motor fan to the motor..is that a BHG or just some really F'en bad oil leak and how can it be fix

Any pictures? Is it coming from around or under the crank pulley? (The lowest pulley in the middle)

??? If you have any of those pics I really need to see them. Those two wires and one plug are the only thing stopping me from having the beast running again.

"I just put a new head gasket on my supra and that wiring runs over the top and then down the drivers side of your tranny. If I remember correctly there are bolts that hold it onto the tranny."

Yes, I know it bolts to the tranny, I was asking how to DISCONNECT the connectors as they are above the transmission. And the wiring goes through the lower intake manifold, therefore preventing the head to come off the block WITH the lower intake manifold still bolted on. Or it prevents the lower intake manifold to come out of the engine bay for cleaning. Problem was solved about 2 months ago, by doing what jfunez said.

"Do you have any more pics of your engine around the starter area. I have a couple of plugs on my wiring harness and I cant find out where they go."

Yes, I have plenty of more pictures. Why don't you post pictures of the connectors that you do not know where they go and Ill tell you where they go.

"QUICK question i have oil near the fan belt i dont know whas its called buh its the metal shit that connects the motor fan to the motor..is that a BHG or just some really F'en bad oil leak and how can it be fix"

Sounds like your fan clutch fluid coupling is leaking. What ever happened to starting your own thread instead of hijacking a thread that has nothing to do with your problem? Take a picture and post it. Pictures speak louder than words. If you don't have a camera, get a job.

The one with the clear connector is for the speed sensor.

The one with the white connector is for the reverse lights.

is a 1.5mm MHG stock size HG or do i have to get it machine shaved n e ways

hey im confuse i went on hksusa website and they had MHG bead and stopper do you need to buy both or just one and which one is better

1mm is the stock head gasket thickness.

Bead and Stopper gaskets are 2 different kind of HKS head gaskets. Stopper is much better than the bead, cheapest HKS stopper head gasket I've seen is $355 and its 2mm's in thickness.

Don't even bother buying a head gasket until you have the cylinder head off of the block. Because that will be the only time you will be able to determine IF your cylinder head and block are in proper condition to be able to use a Metal head gasket. I wasn't able to use a metal head gasket because of the pitting around the exhaust side's coolant passages at the #6 cylinder, which is, by the way, the most common area for the supra to blow the head gasket.

was it the pix were ur head gasket lookd like oil was sitting there for along time...cuz when i changed my plug i notice i had oil in 5 and 6 buh the rest was ok buh then plug 5 and 6 lookd a lil burned..is that a sign..and if i just get a stock size HG will it still blow on me if its not a MHG..also i plan on building the motor up to plus around 400hp...its going to take me about A year or 2 to get it to 400hp because im just going to take it slow..so if i attempt to get 400hp the MHG is best right?

Oil on top of the spark plugs has nothing to do with the electrode side (the part of the plug that is in the combustion chamber) or the head gasket.

"was it the pix were ur head gasket lookd like oil was sitting there for along time"

I have no idea what you are refering to.

"and if i just get a stock size HG will it still blow on me if its not a MHG"

It's not the gasket that fails it's the head bolts. They were undertorqued at the factory, causing them to strech. As long as you properly torque the head bolts it doesn't matter what gasket you use.

thank you. im going to make sure its torque correctly after i go get me a torque wrench...sry buh how much ft/lbs should i re-torque it too

That is a matter of opinion. ARP recommends 86 ft/lbs for their 12mm STUDS. ARP does NOT list a torque value for their 12mm BOLTS. And yes, torque values for studs and bolts are different. Factory specs are 58 ft/lbs which is too low, but I've heard (I can't confirm, maybe someone here has a link) that toyota reissued a new torque value for head bolts which is 72 ft/lbs. I personally torqued my ARP bolts to 70 ft/lbs. I'd say anywhere between 70 and 85 ft/lbs would be fine.

ty i appreciate the help alot..now i just gotta ask my uncle to torque down the bolts cuz i dont know where they're at..thanx man u saved me a bhg

The Haynes Manual calls for 85 ft lbs

You better check your lupe.

Haynes manual calls for 58 ft/lbs. Do I need to post a picture?

I follow the TSRM anyway, not Haynes.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...e/DSC00590.jpg

You might be dyslexic. 85--->58??

88Tsupra- The head bolts are underneath the cam covers. If they are factory head bolts, you will need a 10mm allen head socket. It will have to be 3/8" drive to clear the cams and lifter bores. If they are ARP bolts, you will need a 1/2"(size, not drive) 12 point socket. Again, it will need to be 3/8" drive to clear the lifter bores. Then use a 3/8" extension and a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adaptor to use a 1/2" torque wrench.

And as a side note, the cams will need to be set at TDC in order to fit any kind of socket down past them to the head bolts. This is because of the castings of the cams have special ridges casted into them that have flat spots right in the spot where the head bolts are. You will see what I mean if you ever torque the head bolts yourself. In my opinion I think Toyota did that as a fool proof way of making you set the engine to TDC before you take the head off.

thanx hate i appriciate this alot man..this is my first car and its become a gold digger...now if i can just get it torque right maybe then i can stop worrying about it..besides worrying why so much oil is draining out my car so damn fast and ending up on the side of the cam covers and side of the oil cap..depressing but entertaining..also is it ok if my exhaust tip has water all around it when i warm up the car

As far as your oil leak around the cam covers you might wanna take a look at the sticky "Got oil on top of your spark plugs?". If that does not apply to you, then you just need new cam cover seals. Not a dealer only part. You can buy them at any parts store for around $30.

As far as the water around your exhaust tip, if you still have the cat on it, thats perfectly normal. You see, a catalytic converter oxidizes, reduces and converts exhaust gases which are HC (hydrocarbons), CO (carbon monoxide) and NOx (oxide of nitrogen) into CO2 (carbon dioxide), N2 (nitrogen) and H2O which is water (duh).

Edit: oops I just saw that you posted in that thread. My advise to you is to replace all the hoses that attach to the cam covers. That would be the 2 PCV hoses (the 2" ones right in the middle of the covers) and the big hose that is to the right of the oil cap. I can guarantee you if you take that big hose off when you take the covers off, it will crack. It's a dealer only part and its $25.95.

thanx man your a big as help..as for the leak i plan on buying a gasket seal next wednesday then gettin new hoses to...oh i read the Sticky about the oil and if its that i guess ill just have to replace it like u said..thanx a million