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#1 |
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Stock
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oregon
Posts: 14
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If you are going to clean the head without a resurface, careful usage of a putty knife or razor blade scraper can do the job, but it is very easy to scratch the aluminum surface. I have on occasion used copper RTV on aluminim heads to fill minor gouges in the surface, spreading it very thin with a razor blade, just enough to fill the void, (or as a surface release layer when used with porous compound gaskets like felpros, but not on a Supra motor, as I can always find teflon coated metal-graphite laminate gastkets for them.)
The block is much less suseptible to gouging being almost the same hardness as a razor blade or putty knife, but the concerns are the same. Most any kind of normal solvent can be used if you avoid getting solvent on your valve stem seals or other non-metal parts. Carb cleaner works good for this, even for the pistons, I would shy away from certain types of brake cleaners as they can cause cylinder walls to oxidize and develope a thin layer of rust before you get things back together. If you resurface the head, you don't really need to do more than a loose cleaning as the machine shop will grind it all off and leave a smooth fresh surface. You may want to go over your surfaces with a light sand paper or scotch brite, to scuff it up a bit to achieve a better gasket seal (a polished looking surface would almost be too smooth). Be sure none of this sanding debris gets into the cylinders. I have always used rags in the cylinders to keep out debris, the idea is to remove the rags in a quick motion when finished to pull out any debris that fell in (slightly oily or greasey rags are actually good for this as debris will stick to the rags, and keep the walls from oxidizing.). The same can be done with oil and water jackets using corners of the rags. Use compressed air to get extra debris out of the cylinders, the most critical part. Small bits of debris that may still get in to the oil jackets can be filtered out of the oil through normal operation. Small debris in water jackets can be later flushed out of the cooling system, but rarley causes an issue. When you re-assemble your enigne, start it up and run it up to normal temp, maybe drive around a little but not hard, then remember to re-torque your head bolts to spec after a couple of heating-cooling cycles. Change your oil and filter within a few days, and flush your cooling system. You are bound to have some bits of debris, and remnants of whatever was happening to the Oil or Cooling system before you fixed it. Don't let this scare you, it sometimes takes 2 complete changes/flushes to get it all out. |
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#2 |
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1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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Don't be scrrrd. lol
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#3 |
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Stock
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oregon
Posts: 14
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I got really scared the first time I flushed the sytem after my first valve job, and thought oh-no! I missed something big, or that the block was cracked internally somewhere, but after a couple of flushes it was all good.
FYI: citra-safe or equivalent type of citrus solvent works amazingly well on any grease or petroleum based deposits, even hard black carbon deposits and most non-acrylic or non-epoxy adhesives, etc, without attacking seals too bad. Simple Green is a good one too, and being vegatable based they are not a hassle to handle, or danger to your health, enviromentally sound, etc. (they work good as hand and clothes cleaners too) |
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#4 |
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3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Waco
Posts: 164
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Thanks for the advice I got the head off and went to the machine shop. I just got it back yesterday, I going to put arp stud in and im having trouble finding them. Ebay which is where i got the gasket set off of doesnt have any listings for a 7mge. All they have it studs for the 7mgte, arent they the same as the 7mge. If not can someone give me a website where I could get them.
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#5 |
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Stock
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oregon
Posts: 14
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The 7mge should be the same set as 7mgte, the t means turbo. The head bolts and manifold studs should be the same. You may end up with 4 extra bolt-nut sets for the turbo, but I don't remember those actually being in the kit. The best gaskets for this motor in my opinion are available from NAPA (its about the only thing I get from NAPA for imports). They are laminated metal-graphite with a teflon coating. Not the 'paper compound' types, even if they have the cylinder and jacket beads (like felpro's), these will eventually disintegrate.
Last edited by chash360; 06-15-2007 at 05:44 PM. |
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#6 |
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3" Exhaust
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Waco
Posts: 164
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My block is cracked I posted some pics under the thread "Cracked Block"
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#7 |
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1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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#8 |
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Stock
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: kelowna BC
Posts: 6
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does anyone know where i can get the special tool to torque the nuts back onto the head
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#9 |
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Banned
Join Date: May 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 90
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DONT !
do not put a cheap $50 head gasket from felpro,,, Get yourself a Titan or HKS, or cometic metal 2.0 mm gasket. Pretty much guaranteed not to blow ! |
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#10 |
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Stock
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 3
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Hi , Im planning on buying an 87 non turbo supra and the guy that wants to sell it says that its overheating, and blowing coolant out the exhaust could this be because of a bad head and gasket , i need help figuring it out
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