well....I dont know about Oregon but here if you have a appraised value higher from a reputable company they have to issue that difference...however...most people dont have a appraisal BEFORE a accident (unless its a custom rod usually) so that might hurt ya chances there.

Get a Lawyer
 

Insurance companies suck ! $$$ that is. They want you to pay premiums. but never want to pay out. Especially Allstate.

google : JD Powers consumer ratings, auto insurance companies, to see the ratings.

My daughter got her car totaled by a foolish girl. The girl had Allstate. The car Kelly Blue Booked at $3200. Plus it was in XLNT condition. Allstate kept giving her the runaround, and finally offered her $1500.

She ended up getting a lawyer, and Allstate had to pay $3200 for the car, $5000 (full) for the chiropractor, $5000 for the lawyer, AND....$5000 to her for all the emotional stress of the ordeal.

Get a lawyer.

'94
 

Hi guys, new to the boards here and very glad to have found this resource. Thanks to everyone for all the info iv found already.

Anyways, im looking at buying a used 94 MkIV supra (2JZ-GE16) in the next few weeks from an authorised importer here in Australia. Iv read the tips on things to look for with the MkIIIs but im just wondering if anyone has any additional hints or help (rust hotspots etc.) for the MkIV.

Cheers in advance

That's a pretty sweet list korrupt1, I'll definately have to come back to this if or when I go looking to buy my next car (hopefully a Supra :D)

I'm planning on buying a 93-98 Supra in the next few months. My question is if down the road I want to build big HP like 400-500 is it best to buy a non turbo and make it a single turbo or buy the dual turbo and beef it up or swap the dual turbo to a single turbo? My question is "best" based on price and the "right" way to do the mods. Thanks!

Test Drive
 

to add to the main topic...
when buyin an MK3 make sure you test drive for one hour strait. tell the person you would like to test drive for that time give them a downpayment and your id..or have them come... drive the car in stop and go and fast highway or country make sure the temp is normal if you drive for less you get shafted. head gaskets are two much hastle to change on these car's after you just bought the car...
TRUST ME... im not saying dont buy but know that if you jump in to fast you get hosed more often than not.....i really stress a long test drive... it feels great for 15 min. then i left and 1/2 hour later im all the way at red. now i have a $2,000 pile torn apart in my driveway w/ another $1,200 in parts..
and for the people who don't own one your thinking the car is not worth it but for the people like me who have owend 1 or in my case 3 you wouldn't have it any other way b/c this car has the biggest payoff when finished... and a great fan base... :bow:

This is like reviving an old thread.. but it is very worthwhile. I just wanted to point out that in Canada (Alberta for sure), you can insure the MKII and MKIII as a Collectible (it is). My insurance is 6.00 per month for complete insurance on its appraised 6k value + up to 1500.00 in addon parts. Damn cheap.

The caveat? I can only drive it for a maximum of 5000 km per year.

Ask your insurance broker.. not sure if the states or other countries consider the MKII and III's as collectibles or not, but dont do it if your going to drive over that amount. You'll risk your insurance when they do the math if your involved in an accident.

Just to update this as well... I have an 88 and a 90 now.. both fully insured for 11.00 pre month as collectibles. I bought the 90 for 800.00 and it is insured for 4500.00 without an appraisal. (anything here under 5000.00 does not need an appraisal) My 88 is insured for more because it is appraised at 6000.00. Plus, I have all my receipts and the insurance will cover up to 1500.00 in add-on parts above the appraised value.

Finally.. make sure that the engine is cold when buying a MKIII. Start it and watch the tail pipe. I have found that most of the MKIII's I find have smoke come out when cold starting. Not always a major issue, but the valve seals are prone to leaking. It may startle you a bit when you see it, but if it doesn't smoke afterwards, that's usually the problem and its not always a bad thing (mine still smokes if it sits for a day or so when I start it.. blue smoke. I leak tested it and it confirmed the valve guides are leaking, however the rest of the engine is still very strong)

hey guys, new guy here. so i`m looking at a 89 supra with 60k origanal miles, has car listed for 2 grand. car is what i`m looking for,targa top five speed. my issues i`m concerned about. blown clutch and has no spark plug wires to run the car. i`m a marine mechanic and that kinda throws a red flag, i`ve built and restored many of boats and time for a new hobby. my dad had this same car and i loved it any thoughts thanks Donnie

Helps if you have a better description of the car. 60k original miles suggests its a US car, so.. where in the US? (different states have different rust issues...)
Body is a concern.. interior is a concern.. drivetrain is a concern.. but the 3 are kinda seperate areas to worry about.. so if you havent read much yet.. there is a lot of info on what to look at. no plug wires is pretty easy to fix.. blown clutch is also not major. Blown headgasket.. different story.. lol.

lots and lots to tell you about the warts, but this thread covers most.. I suggest reading and then asking questions if you are unclear or concerned about certain things.