|
Buying Supra ? What To Know First
I am starting this thread so folks that are wanting to buy one can read through this first, and get their questions answered here.
(Please check my user profile before reading further). And remember... we are all brothers (and sisters), so help each other.) Note: DON"T buy a piece of crap car, it will suck you dry, and ruin your life. 1). If you are not an experienced mechanic, or have not owned several cars already, then either bring along a mechanic, or take the car to an honest one before buying ANY vehicle. This $$ will be well spent. Know what your buying !!! This info will help you to budget your $$ to get the car into a good 'everyday driving' condition. 2). Be prepared to spend a minimum of $100 month on a used vehicle. That's tires, oil, repairs, parts. 3). If you are reading this BEFORE buying a Supra, good for you !! Do a few searches in each of the sections in this (and other forums) on such things as: blown head gaskets, over heating, heaters, a/c systems, brakes, headlights, radiators, etc. You will learn that the MKIII's (7m engines) have a head gasket problem, but that it can be fixed, then run great with only normal repairs (that any other car would need). If any of you long-time owners have suggestions, especially about some of the things you've learned as you've repaired/built-up your cars, please ad to this thread. |
Check this post by TONY!
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...00&postcount=6 |
need some help....buying supra
hi im a 16 y.o aussie i am looking at purchasing a mkIII in the next year i was wondering if your could give me some idea to the kind of price to pay preferably aus$ and any further info i. read all the stuff about replacing hg and that but i just need to know some of the basics and info would be muchly apreciated.and i guess other info would be nice to... could some1 e-mail it to me i dont get a chance to get on here to often thnx.. i think my e-mail is in profile
|
rather new
some good advice indeed, thanks
Buying an MKIII will be a matter of emotional attachment. My dad drove one for the better part of my life (the year he bought was the same year I was born- 1987) and I have many fond memories of that car. had my family not moved from the states to brazil, I would be driving that same car. money wouldn't be the point. I want to buy an MKIII and do to it what I've spent 10 years of my life imagining, and that is expanding on the engine (I have my eye on a GREDDY kit) and basically revamping the look. any thoughts as to how I might go about that? |
this IS NOT mine but I felt it was quite informative and should be able to help diagnose some potential troubles for people when out looking....I printed a copy for myself for when I am out looking....has saved me thousands so far
-Have someone cold start the car while you stand behind it watching the tailpipe, and look for gray smoke with a blue-ish tint (easiest to see in direct sunlight) -Let the car warm up and continue to stand behind the car checking for smoke -Now move to the front of the car, and open the hood. Listen for bad noises (noticeable injector ticking is normal) -Now go back and watch the tailpipe for smoke, have someone blip the throttle, while you watch for smoke, let it idle between the blips -Now do the same but have them mash the gas and rev it up till like 5000rpm or so -Now have a friend follow behind you in another car while you go for a test drive -Have him/her watch for smoke while you drive -Put it in 2nd gear, let the rpm drop to about 1500, and then stomp on it, and stay on it till redline, then let off the gas. Your friend should be watching for "gray/blue smoke". Just grey/black smoke is okay. -Smoke at cold start-up, leaving a stop-light, or throttle blipping from idle is valve stem seals. Smoke under boost, or after letting off of boost, or maybe when revving full throttle, is turbo seals. Smoking for no good reason, or if it doesn't stop pretty quickly is piston rings (may get better or worse when hot). -Your job while at full throttle in 2nd is making sure the turbos boost fine (smoothly), that you can feel full boost by 4500rpm or near it, and that you don't hear bad noises (slight turbo whistle/whine is ok, if it has an intake it will be noticeable) -Use all the gears in the transmission, and make sure it shifts fine (if it is a 6spd, it is going to feel and sound clunky too you, that’s normal. If the transmission makes "ball bearings in a can" sounds at idle or low speeds, that is 2-piece sprung flywheel and is normal) -While driving with the windows down, listen for clicking or popping noises coming from outside the car. (A POP when starting or stopping, or making a sharp low speed turn (maybe up a hill), is the drivers side engine mount. A clicking sound under initial mild acceleration or deceleration, that lasts for only a second or two then stops, and sounds exactly the same regardless of speed, is the rear upper control arm bushings. A clicking that changes with speed is wheel bearings) -Make sure the brakes work smoothly and reasonably quietly. When coming to a stop take your hand slightly off the wheel and make sure it stays straight. -Make sure the car tracks straight on flat roads. -A creaking noise from the hatch when turning up hill, means it needs rubber hatch bumpers. -Rattling from above you means the targa is loose (make sure the targa bolts loosen, and tighten back down smoothly) and make sure the targa wrench is there. -Make sure the rear hatch opens and closes fine, and that is stays up on it own. -Make sure all the doors open and close smoothly -If you can really smell the exhaust when coming to a stop, it has no cats -If when flooring it, the car pulls smoothly till ~4000rpm, and then rockets forward like getting hit with a semi, then it's modefied and not stock. If you have taken a look at the engine bay and it seems quite standard, the car maybe on TTC setup. If you can hardly feel a change over from the 1st turbo to both, then it's stock. -When checking under the car for leaks, don’t be alarmed by an oily sludge on the transmission and differential. That’s a greasy undercoating that Toyota applied. But check for fresh oil leaks, and check the rear CV joint boots for cracks. -If possible, look at the spot where the car normally parks. Check for fresh oil puddles or spots. If they say their other car caused the spot, don't believe them if it's a clean 1-2 year old car they are blaming it on. -Check the wheel rim, inside and out, for curb rash or bent rims. -Check for excessive or uneven wear on the tires -Check for cheap, or miss-matched tires -Look to see if all the little plastic panels and parts under the car all line-up, and are attached, and that paint is not where it shouldn't be (cracked under trays are not uncommon, don't be alarmed). Spend a fair amount of time on the ground, don't be afraid to get a little dirty. Also all the major body panels have the original VIN number visibly stuck on them, make sure they are all still there and are the right number. Look for missing, non-original, or out of place fasteners. All these things are possible signs off a collision. -Check for signs of rust in the wheel wells and inner fender -Check the condition of all the exposed rubber on the suspension joints -Make sure the power steering is smooth and quiet -Make sure the gaps in the body panels are all even. -Walk all around the car, and look at each panel at different angles. Looks for small dents and dings, and make sure the paint matches all around. -Look over the paint condition very closely -Check around all the glass to see if it has been replaced. Check the manufacturer information on the glass to see if they are all the same. -Make sure all the exterior lights work -Check the headlamps for cracks, moisture or fogging/yellowing (expect them too be fogged/yellowed if an earlier model) -Make sure to test every last switch in the car to make sure it works (power windows, locks, turn signals, light switch, dome lights, power seat, cruise control, everything). Use all the functions on the A/C and make sure they all work. Go from HOT to COLD A/C and make sure it's getting very hot, and very cold. If it has a factory alarm, make sure the key-fobs work. -Check the interior for excessive wear (cracked leather in the seat's side bolsters is pretty damn common). -Check all of the fluids, make sure the fluid isn't terrible. Open the oil fill cap, and look inside for sludge build-up (you shouldn't see any) -Find out what oil the use, and how often (don't trust their answer unless they have receipts) -Ask them if they have had any work done to it. If they have owned it for several years, and say they have done nothing to it, don't take that as being a completely good thing. -Ask if it has ever had modifications, and what. -Make sure it still has the spare tire, jack and wrenches, owners manual, and targa wrench. -Try to get the repair records -Do a VIN # and chasis number check -Take it to a mechanic you trust AFTER you have done all this to get it checked out one last time before buying it. -If the owner refuses any of this, be suspicious. -Try to take a level-headed friend with you who you can trust. This may sound like a lot to do, but really it's not, most of these things take no more than a second to do. Make sure to always go look at a car on a bright sunny day, and make sure you and the seller will have plenty of time (don't rush anything) Any problems you find (and your likely to find a few) should not mean you shouldn't buy the car. But you need to know what you are getting into, and whether the price is reasonable. Always negotiate. People are almost always willing to come down some on their asking price. And be prepared to walk away as hard as it may be. One guy actually tried to rush me into buying his MKIII...and a few minutes later I found out why...car wouldnt have made it home....as it overheated and blew coolant all over his driveway.......doesnt say much since he was asking almost 5K for the car.....TSK TSK anyways...........hope that helps you people when out looking |
Umm...
Alot of the tips one their are a great help, but I kinda find it hard to belive sum1 would let you do all that to the supra they want to sell,ya know? I dunno, that's just me...
|
Quote:
|
safe and dependable
Anyone selling a car should be willing to come down 10-20% on price. They need to understand, that the buyer wants to 'feel' he got the best deal.
I looked back, and realized I've owned 53 cars & trucks (and sold 52). Every one that I sold was in better condition than when I bought it. With nearly all of them, I got all my $$$ back, and drove it for various lengths of time. A few I actually made $$$ on (because they were so cheap to buy). If the seller won't let your personal mechanic look it over, DON'T buy it, he's hiding something. If the car needs to be emissions certified for transfer, he should be willing to get it done. If he's not, then he already knows it won't pass, and will cost $$$$ to repair. Be careful about the test drive. Look the car over real good first. Make sure the brakes and lights all work. Make sure the tags are current. Don't have an accident !! One time........ I jumped in a car for sale, for a friend (she wanted my opinion), and the owner. I got stopped for a tail light out. By the time the cop was thru, I was screwed. The windshield had a crack, a headlight was out on highbeam, a signal bulb was out, the wipers didn't work, a tire was bald, and the tags were expired by 1 month. I tried to explain that I was just test driving it for the woman, and that the owner was sitting in the car, but the CHP said the 'driver' is responsible for the condition of the vehicle when its out on a public road. Well, she ended up NOT buying that car. The owner said he would get the stuff fixed and have the ticket 'signed-off' by a cop. He didn't. I got a notice to appear in court. Now I was gonna have to take off work (lose $$$) for this crap. So...the woman went to court for me, explained to the judge what happened, and the judge dismissed the ticket. Remember...your the driver, so you'll get the ticket. Also...book out the car on kbb.com to check the value. Its worth the $50-100 you might have to pay a shop to thoroughly look over and estimate any needed repairs. You can usually get the seller to lower the price if it needs some major repairs to make it safe and dependable. |
Quote:
|
MKIII Appraisal value needed!!!
I had a pristine 1990 Supra Turbo Sport Top with every factory option: AT,OD,PS,Tilt-TS,AC, Power everything (Windows, Seats, Locks, heated Mirrors), leather interior, AM/FM/CD Cassette, even a tow package. 160,000 miles before the rebuild. Rebuilt the motor myself (my 4th rebuild of a 7MGTE, none of my rebuilds have failed to this day), with about 6000 miles after the rebuild.
In 2004 I was rear-ended while at a complete stop, by a van load of kids doing almost 60 mph. Needless to say the car was totaled, and I am lucky to be alive. The insurance company is offering an insulting ~4K as the value of my car. I can go onto any online used car listing (autotrader, vehix, etc.) and the average asking price for a truely comparable Supra is about twice that. Even bluebook is higher than the offer. Does anyone know of a person or business that can give me a decent appraisal? Any personal estimates of value would be greatly appreciated as well. |
Quote:
|
Get a Lawyer
Insurance companies suck ! $$$ that is. They want you to pay premiums. but never want to pay out. Especially Allstate.
google : JD Powers consumer ratings, auto insurance companies, to see the ratings. My daughter got her car totaled by a foolish girl. The girl had Allstate. The car Kelly Blue Booked at $3200. Plus it was in XLNT condition. Allstate kept giving her the runaround, and finally offered her $1500. She ended up getting a lawyer, and Allstate had to pay $3200 for the car, $5000 (full) for the chiropractor, $5000 for the lawyer, AND....$5000 to her for all the emotional stress of the ordeal. Get a lawyer. |
'94
Hi guys, new to the boards here and very glad to have found this resource. Thanks to everyone for all the info iv found already.
Anyways, im looking at buying a used 94 MkIV supra (2JZ-GE16) in the next few weeks from an authorised importer here in Australia. Iv read the tips on things to look for with the MkIIIs but im just wondering if anyone has any additional hints or help (rust hotspots etc.) for the MkIV. Cheers in advance |
That's a pretty sweet list korrupt1, I'll definately have to come back to this if or when I go looking to buy my next car (hopefully a Supra :D)
|
I'm planning on buying a 93-98 Supra in the next few months. My question is if down the road I want to build big HP like 400-500 is it best to buy a non turbo and make it a single turbo or buy the dual turbo and beef it up or swap the dual turbo to a single turbo? My question is "best" based on price and the "right" way to do the mods. Thanks!
|
Test Drive
to add to the main topic...
when buyin an MK3 make sure you test drive for one hour strait. tell the person you would like to test drive for that time give them a downpayment and your id..or have them come... drive the car in stop and go and fast highway or country make sure the temp is normal if you drive for less you get shafted. head gaskets are two much hastle to change on these car's after you just bought the car... TRUST ME... im not saying dont buy but know that if you jump in to fast you get hosed more often than not.....i really stress a long test drive... it feels great for 15 min. then i left and 1/2 hour later im all the way at red. now i have a $2,000 pile torn apart in my driveway w/ another $1,200 in parts.. and for the people who don't own one your thinking the car is not worth it but for the people like me who have owend 1 or in my case 3 you wouldn't have it any other way b/c this car has the biggest payoff when finished... and a great fan base... :bow: |
This is like reviving an old thread.. but it is very worthwhile. I just wanted to point out that in Canada (Alberta for sure), you can insure the MKII and MKIII as a Collectible (it is). My insurance is 6.00 per month for complete insurance on its appraised 6k value + up to 1500.00 in addon parts. Damn cheap.
The caveat? I can only drive it for a maximum of 5000 km per year. Ask your insurance broker.. not sure if the states or other countries consider the MKII and III's as collectibles or not, but dont do it if your going to drive over that amount. You'll risk your insurance when they do the math if your involved in an accident. Just to update this as well... I have an 88 and a 90 now.. both fully insured for 11.00 pre month as collectibles. I bought the 90 for 800.00 and it is insured for 4500.00 without an appraisal. (anything here under 5000.00 does not need an appraisal) My 88 is insured for more because it is appraised at 6000.00. Plus, I have all my receipts and the insurance will cover up to 1500.00 in add-on parts above the appraised value. Finally.. make sure that the engine is cold when buying a MKIII. Start it and watch the tail pipe. I have found that most of the MKIII's I find have smoke come out when cold starting. Not always a major issue, but the valve seals are prone to leaking. It may startle you a bit when you see it, but if it doesn't smoke afterwards, that's usually the problem and its not always a bad thing (mine still smokes if it sits for a day or so when I start it.. blue smoke. I leak tested it and it confirmed the valve guides are leaking, however the rest of the engine is still very strong) |
hey guys, new guy here. so i`m looking at a 89 supra with 60k origanal miles, has car listed for 2 grand. car is what i`m looking for,targa top five speed. my issues i`m concerned about. blown clutch and has no spark plug wires to run the car. i`m a marine mechanic and that kinda throws a red flag, i`ve built and restored many of boats and time for a new hobby. my dad had this same car and i loved it any thoughts thanks Donnie
|
Quote:
Body is a concern.. interior is a concern.. drivetrain is a concern.. but the 3 are kinda seperate areas to worry about.. so if you havent read much yet.. there is a lot of info on what to look at. no plug wires is pretty easy to fix.. blown clutch is also not major. Blown headgasket.. different story.. lol. lots and lots to tell you about the warts, but this thread covers most.. I suggest reading and then asking questions if you are unclear or concerned about certain things. |
| All times are GMT. The time now is 10:37 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.