big problem!!!

lsgheero · 11-25-2006, 03:16 PM

okay sounds great i'll do that, altho one thing bothers me would blown valve gaskets cause both oil and gas to be there, (also i check again last night and its the same mixture in the oil pan when i pull out my dipstick..

thanks again larry

Bill UK · 11-25-2006, 04:02 PM

As dcrusupa correctly said change the cam cover seals, No 5 & 6 plugs normally fill with oil due to the engine being slightly at an angle. May be worth using a set of stainless steel 6mm socket cap screws when refitting the cam covers back on. This will enable you to tighten the covers down a bit more but be careful not to over do it, the head is alloy.You said “gas and oil” how do you know its gas, I would of thought the gas would evaporate.

lsgheero · 11-25-2006, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill UK

You said “gas and oil” how do you know its gas, I would of thought the gas would evaporate.

this is due to the fact that my oil smells like gasoline.

both where the spark plugs are and when i pull out the dipstick

scruffboy · 11-26-2006, 04:43 PM

Has it been a while since you changed the oil? If you have let it go for too long gasoline will get into the oil, that's why it's best to change it as often as possible.

mrnickleye · 11-26-2006, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scruffboy

Has it been a while since you changed the oil? If you have let it go for too long gasoline will get into the oil, that's why it's best to change it as often as possible.

Some wwill argue (like Democrats & repulicans), but if you are using petro oil, change it every 3k miles. Synthetic could go 5-6k miles.

Gasoline (raw, unburned) will slip past the ring gaps, and dilute the motor oil. Just a fact of combustion engines.

Also, if the engine has over 100k on it, and has some oil loss issues, like burning it or leaks, I recommend using 20w-50 oil to slow down the oil consumption, and to fill in the increased clearances on the parts due to the normal wear incurred over those 100k + miles. (All 1 sentence, that made sense)

scruffboy · 11-27-2006, 01:18 PM

You are the one who told me about gasoline naturally getting into the oil past the rings so I figured I'd answer that one for you and give you a break. I had a great summer with the 20w50 and changing it more often. So as you can see, I try to retain what you teach me (and sometimes pass it on), thanks. By the way, I got an oil change in the middle of November to take me till February, and I used 10w40. February and March can be really cold here, should I switch to 10w30 in February?

Scruffboy

mrnickleye · 11-28-2006, 12:48 AM

Great to hear your car is working good.
The 10w is the viscocity (pouring weight; thickness) of the oil, and the 40 is the molecular strength. So I don't even see a need to use 10w-30.

11-26-2006, 04:43 PM	#4
scruffboy walbro fp Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Kearny, New Jersey, USA Posts: 427	Oil Change? Has it been a while since you changed the oil? If you have let it go for too long gasoline will get into the oil, that's why it's best to change it as often as possible.

11-27-2006, 01:18 PM	#6
scruffboy walbro fp Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Kearny, New Jersey, USA Posts: 427	Hey Mr.Nick You are the one who told me about gasoline naturally getting into the oil past the rings so I figured I'd answer that one for you and give you a break. I had a great summer with the 20w50 and changing it more often. So as you can see, I try to retain what you teach me (and sometimes pass it on), thanks. By the way, I got an oil change in the middle of November to take me till February, and I used 10w40. February and March can be really cold here, should I switch to 10w30 in February? Scruffboy

11-28-2006, 12:48 AM	#7
mrnickleye 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Mojave Desert, Calif. Posts: 1,705	Great to hear your car is working good. The 10w is the viscocity (pouring weight; thickness) of the oil, and the 40 is the molecular strength. So I don't even see a need to use 10w-30. __________________ Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing. TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08.

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11-25-2006, 03:16 PM	#1
lsgheero Stock Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Arizona Posts: 7	okay sounds great i'll do that, altho one thing bothers me would blown valve gaskets cause both oil and gas to be there, (also i check again last night and its the same mixture in the oil pan when i pull out my dipstick.. thanks again larry

11-25-2006, 04:02 PM	#2
Bill UK AEM EMS Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: UK Posts: 891	As dcrusupa correctly said change the cam cover seals, No 5 & 6 plugs normally fill with oil due to the engine being slightly at an angle. May be worth using a set of stainless steel 6mm socket cap screws when refitting the cam covers back on. This will enable you to tighten the covers down a bit more but be careful not to over do it, the head is alloy.You said “gas and oil” how do you know its gas, I would of thought the gas would evaporate.