Help!!!!

fienloco · 04-14-2008, 08:07 PM

I just purchased a JDM 7-MGTE from Japan Racing Engines the warranty is expired only 30 days of course. I have a major issue and wondering if anyone can tell me why I would have water in the oil and billowing white smoke??? I have no reading to my console, temp, oil pressure, boost? I had to swap throttle body did not swap any sensors just my wiring harness and ECU. It had water in the spark plug galley from them washing the engine. I have drained oil and tried new oil I get the same result light brown watery oil and wonder if the Supra had a water cooled oil cooler or bad head gasket etc., etc.. Can anyone help me figure this out or have any pointers?? The company out of Canada said the engine had 175 psi compression per cylinder and that they performed a leakdown test at 16 psi. They did not provide proof on paper when shipped just a verbal over the phone when I contacted them of the issue. i have been waiting a long time for this MKIII and after 4500 bucks it should be running like a champ its dissapointing!

Busted Knuckles · 04-14-2008, 11:32 PM

Did you get a complete engine or just a long block? The complete engine has intake and possibly exhaust manifold. The long block basically has block, heads, and valve covers. The only thing I can think of is a leak at the throttle body if it is warmed with coolant. If not, re-run the compression check. The water can only get it through a bad/cracked head or block, bad head gasket, or through the intake. A compression check should eliminate cracked block/head or BHG if all cylinders good. If there is a problem with comprssion, document and send back.

fienloco · 04-15-2008, 07:34 PM

It was a complete engine that I had purchased. I did change the throttle body r/hand drive is a bit different than l/hand. I will perform a comp check. I'll post again once I do those things on the engine. What would you think the problem with engine/computer communication could be? I am still a bit baffled by that issue of course I didnt change any sensors out on the engine block just hooked them up.

Busted Knuckles · 04-15-2008, 11:08 PM

I don't like to use sensors from an engine unless I know they are good. I'd try swapping them out with the ones off your original engine, and see if the gauges work with them.

But, I'd worry about the coolant leak first. Please post back the compression test readings.

fienloco · 04-16-2008, 03:13 AM

I have to a get comp. tester but I will definately let you know. Should I be looking for aroud 165psi+? I am a newby and this is my first real aspirated car. Already blew it once four years ago and its sat around since, needs lots o work but I want it running before all. So I am cautious and dont want to damage the engine.

Busted Knuckles · 04-16-2008, 03:48 AM

According to my book, with a warmed up engine, the compression should be between 156 and 164 psi. the cylinder pressures should be within 14 psi of each other, and absolute minimum is 128 psi. If any of the cylinders is below 20 psi of any of the others, you have a serious problem.

Also, you can use a cooling system pressure checker to help identify the leak. Make sure the system is loaded with coolant or water, attach the pressure tester, and pump up to 16 psi. The pressure should hold, but I suspect it will steadily drop. The pressure will also force water out through the leak, and make it's location well known.

04-14-2008, 08:07 PM	#1
fienloco Intake Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Pueblo,CO Posts: 33	Help!!!! I just purchased a JDM 7-MGTE from Japan Racing Engines the warranty is expired only 30 days of course. I have a major issue and wondering if anyone can tell me why I would have water in the oil and billowing white smoke??? I have no reading to my console, temp, oil pressure, boost? I had to swap throttle body did not swap any sensors just my wiring harness and ECU. It had water in the spark plug galley from them washing the engine. I have drained oil and tried new oil I get the same result light brown watery oil and wonder if the Supra had a water cooled oil cooler or bad head gasket etc., etc.. Can anyone help me figure this out or have any pointers?? The company out of Canada said the engine had 175 psi compression per cylinder and that they performed a leakdown test at 16 psi. They did not provide proof on paper when shipped just a verbal over the phone when I contacted them of the issue. i have been waiting a long time for this MKIII and after 4500 bucks it should be running like a champ its dissapointing!

04-15-2008, 07:34 PM	#3
fienloco Intake Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Pueblo,CO Posts: 33	Thanks for the Pointer. It was a complete engine that I had purchased. I did change the throttle body r/hand drive is a bit different than l/hand. I will perform a comp check. I'll post again once I do those things on the engine. What would you think the problem with engine/computer communication could be? I am still a bit baffled by that issue of course I didnt change any sensors out on the engine block just hooked them up.

04-16-2008, 03:13 AM	#5
fienloco Intake Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Pueblo,CO Posts: 33	Most definately. I have to a get comp. tester but I will definately let you know. Should I be looking for aroud 165psi+? I am a newby and this is my first real aspirated car. Already blew it once four years ago and its sat around since, needs lots o work but I want it running before all. So I am cautious and dont want to damage the engine.

04-14-2008, 11:32 PM	#2
Busted Knuckles 12psi boost Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Atlanta Posts: 300	Did you get a complete engine or just a long block? The complete engine has intake and possibly exhaust manifold. The long block basically has block, heads, and valve covers. The only thing I can think of is a leak at the throttle body if it is warmed with coolant. If not, re-run the compression check. The water can only get it through a bad/cracked head or block, bad head gasket, or through the intake. A compression check should eliminate cracked block/head or BHG if all cylinders good. If there is a problem with comprssion, document and send back.

04-15-2008, 11:08 PM	#4
Busted Knuckles 12psi boost Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Atlanta Posts: 300	I don't like to use sensors from an engine unless I know they are good. I'd try swapping them out with the ones off your original engine, and see if the gauges work with them. But, I'd worry about the coolant leak first. Please post back the compression test readings.

04-16-2008, 03:48 AM	#6
Busted Knuckles 12psi boost Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Atlanta Posts: 300	According to my book, with a warmed up engine, the compression should be between 156 and 164 psi. the cylinder pressures should be within 14 psi of each other, and absolute minimum is 128 psi. If any of the cylinders is below 20 psi of any of the others, you have a serious problem. Also, you can use a cooling system pressure checker to help identify the leak. Make sure the system is loaded with coolant or water, attach the pressure tester, and pump up to 16 psi. The pressure should hold, but I suspect it will steadily drop. The pressure will also force water out through the leak, and make it's location well known.