oil in intercooler

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Dom

...i was just wondering were to look for breather...

Again, which one?

Originally Posted by Dom

...maybe copy from haynes manual...

Afaik, there is no haynes manual for the Mkiv Supra Turbo. You can see either the left (intake) or right (exhaust) pcv breather port in a few of the diagrams of the Toyota Supra Repair Manual.

Originally Posted by Dom

...I got a cusco catch can just wondering were to put it...

Put it in-line with the only hose coming off the outside of the right hand (exhaust) side valve cover.

[Dom]

i done a compresion test on my car all cylinders are 150 psi is this ok ?plugs were a bit oily the cylinder closest to bulkhead was worst

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Dom

i done a compresion test on my car all cylinders are 150 psi is this ok ?plugs were a bit oily the cylinder closest to bulkhead was worst

Are all of the cylinders EXACTLY 150psi? That's very unusual...are you sure you did the compression test properly?

If the plugs are oily, you need to replace the valve/cam cover gaskets and the grommets on all of the bolts and studs that hold the valve/cam covers down, according to the steps in the TSRM. This problem has nothing to do with oil in the intercooler.

[Dom]

the psi varied from 149 to 152 i ordered the gaskets and the pcv valve, thought id replace it while i have covers off i'll let you know how it goes. i got a new blitz intercooler dont know weather to put it on yet or not last thing i want is to mess it up with excess oil running into it . dont mean to annoy you i know this is mickey mouse stuff to you thanks again

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Dom

the psi varied from 149 to 152 i ordered the gaskets and the pcv valve, thought id replace it while i have covers off i'll let you know how it goes. i got a new blitz intercooler dont know weather to put it on yet or not last thing i want is to mess it up with excess oil running into it...

Ime, those numbers are a bit low (depending on exactly how you did the compression test, and the calibration of your gauge)...which could mean a slightly elevated amount of blowby. How many miles are on your engine? Has it always had regular oil changes with full synthetic motor oil?

Again, I'd suggest you install a catch-can and see if that reduces the oil in the intercooler pipes.

Originally Posted by Dom

...dont mean to annoy you i know this is mickey mouse stuff to you thanks again

No problem at all. I'm happy to help if I can.

[Dom]

Hi Phil i was just listen to the infamous death whine on mkiv.com that noise has been steadily growing in my car past few weaks ,thats all i need.
still waiting on my gaskets,grommets and catch tank to arrive .
Ive been on mvpmotorsports a bit and i like the look of the PHR stage 1 turbo kit i could just about come up with that sort of cash if need be ,if i did would i get away with just upgrading the fuel pump and fuel pressure reg.?they also mentioned removing mass air flow?
Iwas thinking of changing my rims ,not any more.

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Dom

Hi Phil i was just listen to the infamous death whine on mkiv.com that noise has been steadily growing in my car past few weaks ,thats all i need.
still waiting on my gaskets,grommets and catch tank to arrive .
Ive been on mvpmotorsports a bit and i like the look of the PHR stage 1 turbo kit i could just about come up with that sort of cash if need be ,if i did would i get away with just upgrading the fuel pump and fuel pressure reg.?they also mentioned removing mass air flow?
Iwas thinking of changing my rims ,not any more.

You won't need to remove your maf, imo. As long as you keep it below 600rwhp (6spd) you can get by with (only) a fuel pressure regulator upgrade. It's critical that you keep it below this point, even including boost spikes and boost creep (i.e. don't set it for 600rwhp max/average, with peaks up to 625rwhp, for example). Of course, be sure to run a sufficient octane of fuel for the boost level you run it at.

With the aftermarket (adjustable) fpr in place, set base fuel pressure to about 55psi or 60psi, and then reduce fueling 0-3500rpms accordingly (using an AFC, emanage, or map ecu)...and then dyno-tune with care.