Need some more opinions on this..
 

what can man? any past or future problems

80,000 on engine 93 TT

This is the last thing stopping me from buying, as im just tryin to get as much info on what this could be, maybe its normal..but skillmatic already told me a little info on it..thanx skill

any other opinions?

old skanky oil.... not been changed very much...
that's if ur talkin bout inside the cap on the valve covers

oil cap... pic is kinda fuzzy.. but looks ok..

what were you worried about?

i donno, maybe it was anti-freeze/coolant or sumthin.....blown headgasket, i donno

Was wondering because the dude that inspected teh car took ap icture of it for a reason, maybe they alwqys do it, or maybe he wanted me to see sumthin

I have no idea if that picture/oil signifies anythign major?

oh ya might as well throw this in here...what should a healthy engine read for comression in each cylinder

Yes, the major problem I would worry about would be if he did his oil changes or not. Nothing is worse to a motor if you dont do your oil changes and making sure you check your coolant levels. Overheating and improper lubrication are the major problems why motors have problems and/or short lives.

IMproper lubrication can cause major problems down the road.

I would rather buy a a supra that has a motor with 200,000miles on it that has had its oil changes done religiously every 2000miles than buy a supra with a motor that has 70,000miles on it that has never had an oil change.

I am not too sure of the compression off the top of my head but I am sure its on this forum somewhere.

well.. does the cap look like this?

http://www.supra.co.nz/images/bhg003.jpg
inside the cap is a caramelised colour... sorta like chocolate thickshake

compression i think should be anywhere between 160-180 evenly across all cylinders
i.e. 180 175 172 182 etc
not 180 160 180 180 that means problem in one cylinder

but get the idea?

(and i know i'm missing 2 cylinders lol)

That's not the correct way to read compression. As in suprra_girl's example, the TSRM says the engine is "healthy" based on the difference between the minimum and maximum cylinders.

Why am I not surprised? ;)

Dude, what is your problem? If you want to help this individual out then that is great, but if you want to post because you want to be an a$$hole then go back to your other forums.

We would all apreciate it if you can act like a mature person while being on these forums. If you cant do this then you will probably not be here very long.

Now, I have helped several people on this forum with different things and they have also helped me.

This is a great community for a common love. And we are here to share information. If having a knowledge battle is all you are here for then you are in the wrong forum. No one likes a know-it-all and if you want to be claimed the know-it-all here then be my guess. I really dont have time to mess with children.

If you don't mind me asking, why didn't you post some useful information by looking up the correct compression test procedure, instead of posting something like "regular oil changes are good" :rolleyes: and "I have no clue how to check compression"? Are you just trying to increase your post count on this forum or what? Just chill out ... forums aren't good places for people with egos so over-inflated and sensitive they can't take a friendly little jab (along with the valid content & response I made) in response to a WOB post.

I'd suggest we stay on topic on this thread. If you really feel a strong need to argue with me some more, I'd kindly suggest (with sincere respect to both the person that started the thread as well as the moderators) that you follow up with me via PM or email.

______________________________________________


Here's some more info for suprafann, to (hopefully) help get this thread back on topic. If you do find any low cylinders during the compression test, it's best to follow up with a cylinder leakdown test (CLT) on those low cylinders.

Also, from the picture you posted, it looks like synthetic oil was not consistently used in that Supra. The 'coking' that you see can possibly lead to a number of problems, including oil starvation to the bearing(s) or turbo(s). In an ideal world, that engine should be disassembled and hot-tanked...but there are a few things you can do to partially flush it out without disassembly, if you do end up buying it. Please PM me for more info, or post after you have the results of your compression test.

Again this is none of your business. Me and suprafann have been pming each other for awhile. I told him all this information was off of the TSRM. I gave him a link and he is loving it.

Also, I never said I dont know how to check for compression. I said I didnt know off the top of my head what the compression readings are. Please learn to read sir. This has been a problem of yours since day one on this forum. We all would appreciate it if you could read clearly.

Period end of discussion. I am not going to continue this discussion with a pm or email. Because I dont have the time to bicker and argue with you.

Let this be the end of this and let life go on. Please I would appreciate if you would stop the flame remarks and act like an adult on forums. I havent flamed you at all and I am hoping you will realize this and treat others as you would like to be treated.

Sincerely

So you re-provided the link to him AFTER I already posted it? Why did you bother doing that? Imho, that was more WOB.
Whether you don't know, or you didn't have the time to find the link when you posted to this thread, either way your post was a complete WOB imho. Learn to post, sir.
Awesome. Thanks for restraining yourself and keeping this thread on track...oops too late for that. :(
Will do. Please feel free to call me on it if I ever try to increase my post count by posting useless WOB (probably because I don't have any useful knowledge to share) in response to a valid question...and I'll be happy to do the same for you in the future as well. Again, let's end this argument now, or take it offline.

...on the other hand, I assume you're probably going to keep posting off-topic garbage on this thread because your ego won't allow anyone else to have the last word...until one of the moderators has to lock it down. (I feel that's rather unfair to suprafann that you will insist on dragging this out.) I therefore await your next "formidable" response.

Again. This forum isnt just dedicated to post information. If a information based forum is all you are looking for good luck cause all forums are not just about bringing the car culture information. We have other portions and threads that do not pertain to info and even cars sometimes. Sometimes peopel post threads of things that dont even have anything to do with cars. So what are you going to do? complaign to everyone that doesnt post information about supras and flame them for it? And btw, my post said off the top of my head. Which would tell any common sense thinking person that he is going to get back with you with the correct info which I did in a pm before you even came in this thread.

I think this isnt an argument on whethor I brought information or not I think this is a unraveling over our last argument and you are mad because you losed it. Again I have no time for temper tantrums.

Now where is that ignore button?

So you want every forum to be given the same rules as 'off topic'?

You're the only one I've seen that's repeatedly wasting everyone's time with ramblings (not to mention inaccurate info like turbos that mix exhaust and intake gasses). So yes, I would sincerely expect that anyone that's blatantly and repeatedly wasting everyone's time should be called on it.
Since you brought it up, I still haven't seen your dyno run with 40psi and 650rwhp on the stock twins alone (no other power adders allowed).

Again for goodness sake, stop posting off-topic. This thread is about suprafann and the engine in the Supra he's planning to purchase.

And so far I see your the only one that thinks this.

Why dont we just ask everyone on this forum if I am just a useless rambler? And then lets ask everyone on this forum if you have an attitude problem? I am sure the results will be very intriguing.

And btw, the overall boundaries were any other mod was ok except I couldnt mess with the twins and the block. Please stop trying to change the boundaries. You have already losed.

Imho, that's no less delusional than saying the 2jz-gte oem twins can boost to 40psi. ...and fwiw here's a link to the post where you admitted that I had already excluded the use of NO2, near the beginning of that discussion.
I have a better idea. Let's keep this thread ON TOPIC! If you want to know what people think of you, I'd suggest that you start a new thread in the off-topic forum. Good luck with it. Personally I'd strongly prefer if THIS THREAD remain dedicated to answering suprafann's engine questions.

ok, how bout both of you stop. all your doing is winding each other up. so stop the posting, and let the topic get back on track, neither of you post in this topic again to keep the peace, or this thread will be locked.

Agreed. I have been wanting to do this forever. Thanks for coming in here and helping me.

Ditto, fallen. Thanks for your help.

Suprafann, please feel free to PM or e-mail me if I can provide any more info.

Awwe now thats awesome. You see helping people is much more satisfying. Thanks for doing this.

I'm glad to hear that you agree. There really is no substitute for posting helpful & useful information, either publically, or via PM...

i would PM or email but lets keep it here since the topic has been started, i would love it if you would reply here, that way if anyoen else runs into this problem they can use search and etc...


Ne wayz soembody told me it looks like a high mileage engine that didnt use synthetic oil.

Hopefully that wou;ldnt effect teh engine too much

Honestly it's hard to say...it might have already affected the engine and/or the turbocharger(s), but the first priority is the compression test. If it passes the compression test (along with a driving test to ensure it still boosts well) and you end up purchasing it, then let us know ... I'll post some steps you can take to flush the old oil out.

Like pwpanas said its hard to say. We dont exactly know how long it has been running on what types of oil. We dont know how often the oil changes were done. The most wear an tear would occur on your bearings from improper oil use.

there's no real way to see what condition the bearing side of your motor is in... realistically you can only tear it down then find out...

do you currently own the car or are you "going" to own the car?
without tearing it down i think its just pretty much gonna be drive it till something happens
just make sure it's currently not knocking in the bottom end, always make sure it's topped up with oil and make sure you oil pressure readings are good

The most wear and tear would have occurred on the engine bearings of the Mkiv Supra you're planning to buy if it was ever run with an extremely low oil level, and/or if a very large shot of NO2 was installed and regularly used on the car. Suprafann, in addition to checking for other signs of poor maintenance, also be sure to check carefully for signs of NO2 installation (eg. a hole drilled, tapped & then plugged in the throttle body), as well as 'standard' bpu modifications, before you make your final offer to the seller.

well illl be picking it up on wednesdy if it checks out

wat im going to do is have the seller do a compression test at his shop.than go to toyota to have them check the undercarriage and body......as i wanna make sure the frame is straight

when i test drive it, what should i look/listen for....say i full throttle it, and than what should i look/listen for at normal driving

when you got that pic of the oil cap were you able to drive it then or hear it running ? does it actually do anything strange ?

compression test is prolly a good idea. could you take it to a check place and have them to a Vehicle Information Report type of thing ? they'll do a better check and i'd say they'll be cheaper than toyota.

is " the seller " a car yard or what ? don't let a second hand car yard to a compression test on a supra. please. i work up the road from one. just don't.
:stupid: :eek: ... and it'll be the guy with the sign who does the job.

I agree 100%, and I'll take this advice one step further. Since most courts regard any used car transaction as "as - is ... buyer beware", YOU are responsible for the accuracy of the compression test figures. In other words, there may be no recourse if you purchase the car and find it needs a new/rebuilt engine a few weeks later. I'm sorry to say that I've heard back from some buyers about compression tests done by sellers and I hear things like "160s across the board". I hope it's not news to anyone that, even if that information is near-accurate, that statement alone is insufficiently detailed to give you a good indication of the health of the engine.

Imho, either you need to do the compression test yourself, or you need to pay an independent mechanic to do it (preferrably one experienced with the Mkiv Supra turbo). If you can't find anyone nearby, post here and I'll find you a Supra owner in the area who can direct you to an objective, skilled resource that can do the compression test.

Lastly, if the engine has many thousands of miles on it since the last sparkplug change, the PCV hoses get so rock hard they may have to be cut off, and the plastic coilpack connectors may crack they're removed. Either you, or the person/shop performing the compression test, should have some spare PCV hoses and coilpack connectors available just in case. Fwiw, I'd suggest you agree with the seller ahead of time that if it fails the compression test, he compensates you for the cost of any hoses or connectors that need to be replaced.

well the seller said if i find a problem with it he will pay for my tickets back lol


Ne way i was thinking about taking it to TOYOTA for a compression test, and have them check the body

they said it would be 89 bucks for compression (not sure if thats most cars or excluding supras etc)

they want 189 to check hoses/belts...not sure if ill pay that much for that job

and i have to call again tos ee how much they charge for a frame check

what you gusy think, IS Toyota reliable?

PANAS...the car is located in texas...

Sure, I'd let most any Toyota dealership do a compression check on a Supra, and maybe change the oil. Not much else though, imho.

Which city? We've got LOTS of fellow Supra community members in all parts of Texas.

Denton, i beleive

Again, any Toyota dealership should be able to perform a compression test. Also they *might* have PCV hoses and coilpack connectors in stock (if you get lucky) too. If it ends up there aren't any decent Toyota dealerships in Denton, let me know and we'll find you someone to help.