5 speed transmission limit ?

[Supras4ever]

I'm a first year student in a 3 years degree, so I don't understand how I can get my degree sooner. I will get a part-time job as soon as I get my right to work (~3 months), 2 pt jobs means full time and as I'm a student it's impossible. Saving like 3-400 pounds every month means I have to wait 1 year+ just to afford the TT 6 spd Supra...and a few more months just to afford all the mods to make it APU. So the n/a seems for the moment the best solution but who knows, maybe I'll win the lottery .
"note that a thicker head gasket in a 2jz-ge does not produce a combustion chamber with the equivalent shape and horsepower potential to a 2jz-gte"
I know this, but I meant raising the boost from 9-10 psi (don't know the stock n/a boost level) to 15-16 psi, not higher.
"You also still may run into detonation issues at lower boost levels"
I also had in mind better spark plugs + better coils. That should do it, right?
And for all the work I'll ask a friend to help me + I'm somehow a medium mechanic, as I've worked before at my motorcycles (when I used to ride them) + I've helped a friend build a 240sx, from whom I've learned some good things. For the harder things like the gasket kit and the drilling the oil tank, I'll try to find a good mechanic (who worked with supra's before).
Thanx again!

[[SupraLEGEND]]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

On a dyno, with drag slicks.

No V160 has ever failed at anywhere near only 750rwhp, except the 2nd gear synchro from abusive power shifting.

Incredible

[[SupraLEGEND]]

Originally Posted by Supras4ever

I'm a first year student in a 3 years degree, so I don't understand how I can get my degree sooner. I will get a part-time job as soon as I get my right to work (~3 months), 2 pt jobs means full time and as I'm a student it's impossible. Saving like 3-400 pounds every month means I have to wait 1 year+ just to afford the TT 6 spd Supra...and a few more months just to afford all the mods to make it APU. So the n/a seems for the moment the best solution but who knows, maybe I'll win the lottery .
"note that a thicker head gasket in a 2jz-ge does not produce a combustion chamber with the equivalent shape and horsepower potential to a 2jz-gte"
I know this, but I meant raising the boost from 9-10 psi (don't know the stock n/a boost level) to 15-16 psi, not higher.
"You also still may run into detonation issues at lower boost levels"
I also had in mind better spark plugs + better coils. That should do it, right?
And for all the work I'll ask a friend to help me + I'm somehow a medium mechanic, as I've worked before at my motorcycles (when I used to ride them) + I've helped a friend build a 240sx, from whom I've learned some good things. For the harder things like the gasket kit and the drilling the oil tank, I'll try to find a good mechanic (who worked with supra's before).
Thanx again!

Just an important point I think you should remember: Whether you go for N/A or TT Supra, it's in your best interest to stay away from the overly cheap ones because, you may find they have quite high mileage and were not serviced correctly by the previous owner/s. If they have high mileage and were clearly well maintained, no problem there! This applies more to the TT because, as you know she's Twin Turbocharged and the turbos also have their own lifespan - the lower the mileage the longer she'll run without requiring you to replace anything. Supra is rock solid reliable but, it's always best to keep a low mileage figure in mind when shopping for one. Only problem with that is, the price skyrockets especially for TT 6MT! Rightfully so...

Another thing is, auto TT is considerably cheaper than 6MT. I'd advise you to go with that instead of the N/A if you truly want turbo power. Of course, it won't feel as dynamic as the 6MT If you do go with N/A, try to find an SZ-R (JDM spec and grade) post '95 - they have the same tranny and suspension (Bilstein shocks!!!) as the TT so, turbo'ing that baby will be even more sensible. Did you see any in the UK so far for good prices?

Have you checked out the link I gave you?? Lots of great info there that will answer many of your questions on N/A - TT differences and conversions...

Hope you get it soon

[[SupraLEGEND]]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

You're not missing much other than perhaps the extensiveness of the modifications that you listed. You'll need to remove the exhast manifold and the head...work inside the gas tank, remove and replace the fuel rail, and put a turbo and intercooler into an engine bay that wasn't designed to have one. Oh, most likely you'll run into ignition issues, and you'll have to upgrade that too. Compare this to the Mkiv TT where all you need to achieve 500hp is a downpipe, a ten cent hose clamp, and a free fuel cut modification. Back to your mods though, note that a thicker head gasket in a 2jz-ge does not produce a combustion chamber with the equivalent shape and horsepower potential to a 2jz-gte. You also still may run into detonation issues at lower boost levels, since 1.3mm isn't a very thick head gasket at all. HKS made/makes a 2mm head gasket which may work better.

Here's an example of a complete na-T kit:
http://www.boostlogic.com/catalog/p1...duct_info.html
...and for $5250 you do get your 500hp, but on a car with substandard brakes and suspension. Based on your situation, I still say wait and get a TT. Doing all of these mods to turn an n/a into an na-T is something a student probably doesn't have time for. For what it's worth, I say take more courses and get your degree done sooner, or get two part time jobs and save up for a TT quicker. *shrug* Either way you go, I do wish you the best.

Phil! You mean I can get the modified RZ 6MT I told you about to 500HP just by doing those few things??????

Speechless...I my favourite car even more now!! Supra never ceases to amaze.

[[SupraLEGEND]]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

You're not missing much other than perhaps the extensiveness of the modifications that you listed. You'll need to remove the exhast manifold and the head...work inside the gas tank, remove and replace the fuel rail, and put a turbo and intercooler into an engine bay that wasn't designed to have one.

Actually, the N/A body/chassis has holes in it's front end seemingly for an intercooler's piping to run through them...

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by [SupraLEGEND]

Phil! You mean I can get the modified RZ 6MT I told you about to 500HP just by doing those few things??????

Pretty much. It's a bit more complex than that since the FFCD mod isn't the most reliable way to eliminate fuel cut, but it will work. Also the 500hp figure assumes a few things like fairly new turbos and 2jz-gte. You'd need to run a lot of boost and race fuel. etc. Let me know after you've ACTUALLY got your Supra so I know EXACTLY what we're dealing with and I'll guide you through it.

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by Supras4ever

"You also still may run into detonation issues at lower boost levels"
I also had in mind better spark plugs + better coils. That should do it, right?

No. You elminate detonation by running more octane for the same boost level, or proportionally higher octane for high boost levels. Better spark has nothing to do with it.

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by [SupraLEGEND]

....Of course, it won't feel as dynamic as the 6MT

Again, the Mkiv TT Auto, bone-stock, is faster than the Mkiv TT 6spd, bone stock, in the 1/4. Therefore I disagree with you that the Mkiv TT Auto won't feel as "dynamic" as the 6MT. They're both excellent vehicles, and far, far superior to the n/a.

[Supras4ever]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

Again, the Mkiv TT Auto, bone-stock, is faster than the Mkiv TT 6spd, bone stock, in the 1/4. Therefore I disagree with you that the Mkiv TT Auto won't feel as "dynamic" as the 6MT. They're both excellent vehicles, and far, far superior to the n/a.

I think he meant more fun . And again, I'm not interested in 1/4, I'll use the car just saturdays/sundays.

Originally Posted by pwpanas

No. You elminate detonation by running more octane for the same boost level, or proportionally higher octane for high boost levels. Better spark has nothing to do with it.

What about alcohol/meth injection kit ?
The SZ-R is the perfect candidate for the n/a's, but it's rare...
In UK, TT's go from 5500 pounds for auto's and from 9000 pounds for 6spd. And as this is the starting price, these come with high mileage or seem used hard so for a fairly good one add at least 1k more. The n/a's start from ~ 1750 up to 3000 pounds for a very good one. The thing is I could have money for the auto TT(even though I want the manual ), but I have to keep in mind also registration costs, I want to fit an alarm with gps, service check before buying, changing oil, brake pads and etc beside the power increase which is the whole point ...
Pwpanas, what about the SZ-R, you haven't said anything about them. If I could find a SZ-R, I could also put tt calipers + brake disks and I could also rebuild the engine after ~1 year with TT pistons .
I prefer this instead of waiting until like mid 2013 to buy the TT...

[[SupraLEGEND]]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

Again, the Mkiv TT Auto, bone-stock, is faster than the Mkiv TT 6spd, bone stock, in the 1/4. Therefore I disagree with you that the Mkiv TT Auto won't feel as "dynamic" as the 6MT. They're both excellent vehicles, and far, far superior to the n/a.

Are you saying that a 4 speed auto feels better than a 6 speed manual?? I don't mean 1/4 mile performance differences/similarities between the 2 rather, the actual feeling of shifting the 6 speed over the auto. Even though the auto has the cool Manu-mode feature, a full on manual gives you complete control and coupled with it's clutch, allows more racing techniques to be employed - in a nutshell, there's the dynamic I was referring to