Car broke down - ODB error codes 14 and 24

yoshi123 · 12-02-2011, 04:34 PM

I haven't had my friend over with the oscilliscope to do the testing.

However, I did this

- started car, let idle. Car cut out between 20-30minutes. Felt the ignitor, it was hot/warm.

- let car cool down, prob 30 mins. Started car, cut out immediately. Felt ignitor, it was cold.

This is making me consider it isn't the ignitor.

2nd thing I did was pull the TOMS ECU. I found brown liquid stuff on one connector of the 5 connectors of the TOMS ECU. I thought this would be the problem. So I clean up the connector, and put in a STOCK ECU inside this time. Car still cut out. Damn.

I took apart the TOMS ecu, didn't see any components leaking. Odd.

Spoke to my mechanic, said check sparks, HT leads, ignitor, coils. He then said I'd have to check the fuel pump after this...

I will hopefully check by next week, although if we presume something is heating up and failing, then it tend would rule out the ignitor as this was stone cold and the car still failed to start. The car then started fine the following morning. It could still be the ignitor of course but it's an outside chance. And I think I can rule out the ECU also.

pwpanas · 12-03-2011, 04:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yoshi123

I haven't had my friend over with the oscilliscope to do the testing.

However, I did this

- started car, let idle. Car cut out between 20-30minutes. Felt the ignitor, it was hot/warm.

- let car cool down, prob 30 mins. Started car, cut out immediately. Felt ignitor, it was cold.

This is making me consider it isn't the ignitor.

2nd thing I did was pull the TOMS ECU. I found brown liquid stuff on one connector of the 5 connectors of the TOMS ECU. I thought this would be the problem. So I clean up the connector, and put in a STOCK ECU inside this time. Car still cut out. Damn.

I took apart the TOMS ecu, didn't see any components leaking. Odd.

Spoke to my mechanic, said check sparks, HT leads, ignitor, coils. He then said I'd have to check the fuel pump after this...

I will hopefully check by next week, although if we presume something is heating up and failing, then it tend would rule out the ignitor as this was stone cold and the car still failed to start. The car then started fine the following morning. It could still be the ignitor of course but it's an outside chance. And I think I can rule out the ECU also.

Have you ruled out the Air temp sensor?

yoshi123 · 12-04-2011, 09:10 PM

- where is this located?

- how do I test it?

pwpanas · 12-05-2011, 02:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yoshi123

- where is this located?

- how do I test it?

On the US-spec Mkiv TT, the intake air temp sensor is part of the MAF, and is tested by checking the voltage between THA and E2 of the ECM connector...as well as the resistance between pins 3 and 4 on the MAF. All of this is in your TSRM.

yoshi123 · 12-11-2011, 09:18 AM

Thanks I'll check that too. Haven't done anything with the car, I need to allocate a day for testing and get my friend over.

interested! · 12-11-2011, 12:09 PM

Hi! have you checked out the earth return at the coil pack to cylinder head , this could be intermittent if stiffened and corroded , always a good idea to boost wiring gauge ( double-up ) and lengthen to improve flexibility = make a new one ! and see if that makes any difference - worked for me, mine was just about to fall apart!- talking about my mk 3 -7mgte here!

yoshi123 · 02-04-2012, 03:56 PM

OK, at long last I get round to taking the engine cover off.

As we did a spark test, we noted a connector at the back came out really easy.

Hmmm...

Then we notice 3 clips are broken and silicone sealant is used to hold them together. The clip that came out really easy, the silicone was completely broken.

http://imageshack.us/f/19/aristo.jpg/

We then plugged the lose connector in and ran the car for 40mins in idle, it did not cut out (typical 10-15 mins then cut out before). So I think this is probably the cause of the problem. I need to do more testing, but it looks promising.

My guess is the clips broke during a spark plug change and my mechanic sealed them.

My questions :

- what is the part number for these clips?
- I see 3 with silicone sealant, are there any more clips than the 3?

12-11-2011, 12:09 PM	#6
interested! 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: redhill surrey uk Posts: 142	Car broke down Hi! have you checked out the earth return at the coil pack to cylinder head , this could be intermittent if stiffened and corroded , always a good idea to boost wiring gauge ( double-up ) and lengthen to improve flexibility = make a new one ! and see if that makes any difference - worked for me, mine was just about to fall apart!- talking about my mk 3 -7mgte here! Last edited by interested!; 12-11-2011 at 12:18 PM.

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12-02-2011, 04:34 PM	#1
yoshi123 Stock Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: uk Posts: 15	I haven't had my friend over with the oscilliscope to do the testing. However, I did this - started car, let idle. Car cut out between 20-30minutes. Felt the ignitor, it was hot/warm. - let car cool down, prob 30 mins. Started car, cut out immediately. Felt ignitor, it was cold. This is making me consider it isn't the ignitor. 2nd thing I did was pull the TOMS ECU. I found brown liquid stuff on one connector of the 5 connectors of the TOMS ECU. I thought this would be the problem. So I clean up the connector, and put in a STOCK ECU inside this time. Car still cut out. Damn. I took apart the TOMS ecu, didn't see any components leaking. Odd. Spoke to my mechanic, said check sparks, HT leads, ignitor, coils. He then said I'd have to check the fuel pump after this... I will hopefully check by next week, although if we presume something is heating up and failing, then it tend would rule out the ignitor as this was stone cold and the car still failed to start. The car then started fine the following morning. It could still be the ignitor of course but it's an outside chance. And I think I can rule out the ECU also.

12-04-2011, 09:10 PM	#3
yoshi123 Stock Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: uk Posts: 15	- where is this located? - how do I test it?

12-11-2011, 09:18 AM	#5
yoshi123 Stock Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: uk Posts: 15	Thanks I'll check that too. Haven't done anything with the car, I need to allocate a day for testing and get my friend over.

02-04-2012, 03:56 PM	#7
yoshi123 Stock Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: uk Posts: 15	OK, at long last I get round to taking the engine cover off. As we did a spark test, we noted a connector at the back came out really easy. Hmmm... Then we notice 3 clips are broken and silicone sealant is used to hold them together. The clip that came out really easy, the silicone was completely broken. http://imageshack.us/f/19/aristo.jpg/ We then plugged the lose connector in and ran the car for 40mins in idle, it did not cut out (typical 10-15 mins then cut out before). So I think this is probably the cause of the problem. I need to do more testing, but it looks promising. My guess is the clips broke during a spark plug change and my mechanic sealed them. My questions : - what is the part number for these clips? - I see 3 with silicone sealant, are there any more clips than the 3?