mk4 performance
 

Okay I decided to go about this a different way... I live in Canada and imported a JDM mk4 Supra, twin turbo. I want to know where to start for upgrades, I got deep pockets as I've been working in the oilfield for the past 6 months. I know all about BPU and APU.

I'm thinking;
Full 4" exhaust for max power
Intake
Greddy BCC (Boost Cut Controller)
Boost Controller
Blow Off Valve
Hosing (Can't stand when stock hosing cracks and you get leaks and shit)
Turbo Timer
Intercooler
Cam Gears? (5 bolt)
Cam Shaft?


What about things like injectors? I am tempted to just wait and put in a whole twin fuel system for 2000 instead of just injectors?
I'm also aware about things called Plug n Play? They are ECU upgrades or fuel system upgrades that are already set to go? Is this a good idea or is it better to do a full installation instead of this instant stuff? As well as intake manifolds? What about other things like fuel regulators or different o2 sensors, I heard the stock ones aren't very accurate. I haven't looked around to compare brand yet but if I am spending this amount of money on the car I am going to put the best of the best stuff in it, maybe not a 2000$ air filter, but I'm not going to put in wal-mart brand stuff. If anyone can answer any of these questions let me know, as well as brand suggestions.

Thanks, Kyle

PS: I'll posting pictures of my baby as soon as it gets here :x:

I'd recommend we start with your power goals. That way we know you're not wasting $$$ on parts that are only necessary above your goal (eg. the 4" exahust, injectors, and/or aftermarket cams). It'll also keep you from buying parts that only fit with bpu, and then having to sell them later when you go APU - if your goal requires APU, best to just get organized to do that in the first place.

If you want the exhaust for show (even if it's not necessary for your power goal), I absolutely understand. No harm in looking & sounding bad@ss. :D

The oem fuel pressure regulator is very accurate. However it is not adjustable, and it doesn't flow enough for an aftermarket fuel system with multiple/larger fuel pumps. The oem O2 sensors are plenty accurate too, and work fine with the oem ecu. However, they aren't sufficient for "wideband" a:f tuning.

Plug and play is just a term for any product that has OEM Toyota electrical connectors on it. This saves you and/or your installer time doing wiring when installing aftermarket electronic components.

Btw, the only hose I know of that cracks is the hose between the EGR valve and the EGR vacuum modulator. You'll also need to replace the hoses around the BOV when you replace it. If you want to do all of the other hoses too, to have a great looking engine bay, I understand. Silicone hoses withstand heat the best.

Lastly, don't forget about a boost gauge, and a budget for race fuel. Oh, and an aftermarket downpipe will make you waaaay more power than an aftermarket exhaust at the BPU level.

Thanks for the help, I'm hoping for anywhere between 450-500whp this spring but eventually I want to make about 800whp.

As for exhaust, I meant like full turbo-back. So a new downpipe included.

If at all possible I need you to be more specific; just give me one number: 450, 500, or 800.

For example, 450rwhp is achievable via BPU++++, with a low mileage/hours engine (i..e GREAT compression and leakdown numbers) and a low mileage/hours set of turbos. However 500whp is NOT feasibly achievable via BPU++++, regardless of engine/turbos condition.

If you want 800 later, you will 100% for sure need to uninstall and resell some aftermarket BPU parts that you are buying now, at that time. If you're okay with doing this, let's just completely forget about 800 for now. However, if you're not okay with the inconvenience and cost of buying, installing, uninstalling and reselling BPU-specific parts, let's just get you to 800 right now. Just mho, fwiw.

Lastly, note that there's no need to "hope". We can absolutely 100% for sure achieve any one of these numbers. Any one of them is simply a matter of carefully invested $, time, and expertise.
True, but you'll get all you need for BPU with a $300 downpipe. Just so no one else reading this thread is misled, you really don't need to buy the two together.

okay well lets just set it up so 800-900whp is possible, the parts may be more expensive now but I'm not into the inconvenience.

Gosh. Again, if at all possible I need you to be more specific; just give me one number: 800, or 900. Each horsepower level is a significantly different configuration. Really!

After we get that nailed down, I'll need to know your application.

Oh, and is your Japanese-spec Mkiv Supra Turbo an auto or a 6spd?

By the way, have you read these two threads from the MKIV FAQ?

• http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ond-supra.html
• http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/mkiv-faq/9008-1000-rwhp.html

Lastly, it's not only that the parts are more expensive for 800+rwhp...you have to upgrade many more of them. Examples: For BPU, you don't need a new exhaust manifold, but for aftermarket turbos, you do need to replace the oem exhaust manifold with an aftermarket exhaust manifold/header. For BPU, you use the oem ecu. For 800+rwhp, you'll need to replace the oem ecu with an aftermarket ecu. Etc., etc., etc...

I decided I'll just go with 500 approx rwhp, give or take fifteen but 500 would be nice... Then if I want to go bigger later I can. Is this possible with bpu++++? And still reliable.

Nevermind you clearly said 450 was possible with good compression bit not 500. If I was to go with 500 still would it involve turbo upgrade?

For 500rwhp you'll need a small single turbo kit. If you want to go bigger later on, you'll need a new turbo (you'll have to remove and resell the smaller 500rwhp one), and a fuel kit.

If you want to go with the goal of 450rwhp+ and bpu++++, that is only achievable with a just-like-brand-new engine, just-like-brand-new turbos, and a 6spd. Are you willing to swap out these oem parts, depending on their mileage/hours/condition? If not, 425rwhp (with a 6spd) is probably the max you can shoot for - and even that level depends heavily on those same components already being in very good condition (but brand-new condition isn't necessary for 425rwhp). If your compression numbers are low, or your oem turbos have a lot of miles/hours on them (or they've been driven very hard), and you've got an auto transmission, 375rwhp or so may be the best your setup can achieve. Again, it's all a matter of $, time and experitise.

Again, are you 6spd or auto?

Again, what is your application?

6 speed manual trans, I don't think I would want a single turbo would it be possible to stay twin and reach 500whp? I just driving the car as a summer car and take it to the strip sometimes to race other people, it's like a Friday night thing at a local drag strip.

if I was to go with the 425-450 rwhp how much would it cost for the new turbo's, etc. that I would need to be brand new again?

okay I made my decision, i'm gonna go bpu++++, we will get whatever whp out of it we can without turbo upgrade, if i want i can do that and change everything later but as a daily driver 400whp approx, should do.. thanks for the help and if you could let me know what I'd need, that would be much appreciated, thanks.

Yes, it'd be possible, but it's not practical. You'd spend about twice as much (or more) as you would simply going single turbo to get that 500rwhp.
Last I recall, brand-new turbos from Toyota are about $2250 EACH, and a new shortblock is about $3,250 or so...
You'll need all the standard bpu stuff, plus an fmic, an aftermarket bov (recirc), adjustable cam gears, and a fuel controller. You'll need a spring on your wastegate, and you'll need to run about 25% race fuel to bump up the octane.

I've never bpu'd a Japanese-spec Mkiv myself. I believe you'll also need a speed limiter defensor. We may also need to find a way to get your downpipe connection made larger so you can run a full 3" US-spec downpipe.