basically what I want this car for is as a weekend track car that handles pretty well, nothing extreme, and a car that I can take to drag racing events. How much boost will the car have to run at to achieve 1000rwhp and if I lower it can I run on pump gas I know that it wont be 1000hp but when I just wanna drive it.

I saw your supra on the links your work is amazing how much horsepower is it pushing out or how much is ur planend horsepower

What kind of "track"? Autocross? Drift? Dragrace track? Roadrace? Rally?
You can take almost any car to drag racing events. What kind of performance do you expect from it when you get there? 12s? 10s? 8s?

Note: If you want to build a 1000rwhp Mkiv Supra that you can both dragrace and roadrace effectively, you're talking some REALLY big $ - probably close to 6 figures. If you want it to be show-quality too, then you'll be over 6 figures easy...
I already posted the answer to this question (click this link to get to my post, above) - about 32psi or so, depending on several items.
Sure. Just be d@mn sure your boost stays down, or it's kaboom bye-bye to the engine.
Thank you for your kind words! :) About 800rwhp now, and planned is about 1250rwhp or so.

Low 9s to high 8s and i forgot you said 32 psi. Well thanx for all the help and Ill keep you posted on my progress. And one more question from an earlier post from someone else you said that the oem stock internals have to be changed after 900rwhp what has to be changed? What is a safe boost pressure to run 93 octane gas(pump gas)

Ok...so now, what kind of "track" did you mean when you said "I want this car for is as a weekend track car that handles pretty well, nothing extreme"???
Only one question? Are you sure? ;)
850rwhp with a bone-stock longblock is max for safety & longevity. If you want to try to push it to 900rwhp, you'll probably be pushing your luck although it might work if you're incredibly meticulous with your tuning. Max recorded rwhp with a stock shortblock is over 1000rwhp for a single dyno run...so a bone stock 2jz-gte will actually hold at 1000rwhp, but probably not for long. If you know you're going to run over 850rwhp, I have to strongly recommend that you at least change the connecting rods (preferrably to Carillos).
Hmmm...I may not be great at counting, but I'm pretty sure that's two questions. :) j/k lol

With the stock ecu, 16psi is max for safety & engine longevity. The more you push it past point, the faster your engine's performance will measurably degrade.

Oh, don't forget that with boost spikes and boost creep, it's a major undertaking to rock-solid reliably keep boost down below a certain level. In other words, don't expect you'll be able to simply pop in a $400 boost controller and run 32psi with a big turbo one day, click a switch, and then lock that same big turbo down below 16psi...it's nowhere near that easy (in fact there's probably only a small handful of amateurs that have ever achieved rock-solid-reliable boost control in all conditions). This is a pretty complex subject - please let me know when you're at the point that you've got the cash ready to start building this particular part of your system and I'll give you some pointers.

Forget the handling part its just gonna be a weekend Drag racer and when I said "nothing extreme" I meant like suspension wise just so it will be able to turn right and wont kill my back when' i go over potholes. Would it be a good idea to take weight out of the car cuz I know that less weight equals more speed but sometimes it means less traction One of my freinds told me not to take weight from the back instead from the back though the supra is a relatively heavy car not bimmer heavy but heavier than a 350z or an evo or sti. By the way I have about 60k scrapped up right now that I can spend for modification (I already got the car) I think this will easily get to 80k+ but it all depends on what I do

Ok, now to do easy 9s you'll need slicks, skinnies, and a TH400.
A stiff suspension is only for roadracing. For drag racing you want the @ss end to squat down, and you completely disconnect the front sway bar.
If you want 9s or 8s, yes remove weight. To get traction you need tires (aka slicks & skinnies), not less weight. For example, if you run low-profile roadrace rubber on the rear, you'll spin no matter how heavy it is.
Take out weight wherever you can, for faster times. For example, it's good to relocate the (heavy) car battery to the rear, but it's even better to move it to the rear AND replace it with a lightweight drag racing battery.
Agreed - high 8s will be a lot more expensive than high 9s, for example.

Carbon Fiber is better than fiberglass right(I think its stronger and lighter) though expensive but will suit my purposes um are there fully carbon fiber fenders I know about doors and trunk lids, hoods but I dont know about fender are there cf fenders and bumpers. Is a wing necessary cuz I love the way the wing looks on the supra or will it slow me down.

Right
Almost every type of wing will slow you down for straight-line drag racing (i.e. no turns). The only exception is a drag-specific wing that extends straight back from the hatch:
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1958_108565891

Umm one more question what did u mean when you said topspeed do you mean like the salt flats or topping out the speedometer

Either one, although topping out the speedometer on the salt flats is probably safer than some of the other alternatives...