2 new problems....
 

alright, to start of simple....i have a headlight problem (movement)
the bulbs light up perfectly, when i turn them on.
if they are in the down position, and i turn them on, the left one will not come up.

when i crank the left one up to match the right side, and turn my headlights off, then both sides will go down with no problem.

i got a junked headlight motor, before removing my headlight i unplugged the connector and plugged it into the new motor in my hand, and had my buddy turn the lights on and off.
even with a different motor, it still does the same thing!
(left headlight will not come up)

any suggestions?.... is there a fuse or something specifically for the movement of the left headlight?
id really prefer not to drive around at night with a car that has downsydrome...


and the bigger more...important issue.
i think i have a BHG.
the car runs fine, never overheats. even when i push it hard
the idle is a little funny....=/
im inspecting my engine bay as i do after a couple days of hard driving, and i pull off the rubber thing on top of my valve cover.
heres a pic of it circled in red:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...valvecover.jpg
i look inside and see blackish gritty looking oil in my valve cover...

i also had my car on a lift the same day and there was oil leak coming from somewhere. from the top of the engine somewhere.

i dont know what it is, and also, i took off my radiator cap and looked inside, and theres this brownish colored coolant....gonna flush it and fill it back up with new fluid. heres a pic of it:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/radiator.jpg

i dont think BHG is a problem on 1JZ's

There is a headlight retractor relay in your driverside kick panel. It's a little blue box labeled something like "headlight relay" and in there controls the flipping motion. Maybe it has gone bad somewhere on the circuit board and doesn't recognize to flip up both lights. Hopefully you can find one at a junk yard and check out if swapping that instead would help.

I had oil leaks too near the top of my engine. It was hard finding where because it had already soaked an area with oil. First one was coming from some PCV hoses that lead into my valve covers. When I took them off and looked inside and around it was kinda blackish and gritty like you described yours. So maybe it's normal build up. They were old and cracked hoses too. Then I had one because of my distributor o-ring had hardened and flattened out. Both easy to fix once I found out why. However I have a 7mge motor and not a 1jz soooooo not sure if that helps. But hoping to give you some confidence to keep searching.

As far as the brownish coolant in your system I'm hoping it's not due to any rust build up somewhere. Just be sure to always use distilled water and not tap. Then atleast you have more confidence that it wasn't because of dirty water.

thanks dragon ill look at mine asap.

and oowee, i dont have a 1jz. (i wish)

ill put the sup on the lift again on wednesday and find the source of my oil leak hopefully, and look at that relay box.

thanks guys.

my mistake i just assumed it was a 1Jz since youre in japan, im not familiar with the G series engines, how does it compare to 7Ms and 1JZs?

ive heard good things about the g series, high reving and fun to drive.


jap sup: most people on here have a 7m so we may not be able to help you to much, but we will certainly try

The 1G was fairly uncommon... an underdog of the MKIII world. They're definitely a rev happy engine with decent (but not phenominal) potential with some upgrading. I don't think that engine even made it to Europe. There has been a lot of speculation about how much power they're capable of, but the few people who've tried building it here in North America have all bailed on it. Parts aren't easy to source, they're expensive to ship in and the 1JZ and 2JZ offer greater gains from the same amount of work.

While a BHG is not big concern on the 1JZ, 2JZ and 1G the potential always exists.

Oil leaks on the top (upper half) of the engine are most likely coming from loose valve covers, dried and shrunken seals (such as the one on the CPS or dist. or cam/valve cover seals), or cracked hoses.

yeah, the 1G has come kick to it, and it definatly gets the job done.
lets put it this way, the car can clutch kick in 3rd.
the twin turbos have some lag of course but its not anything thats too bad.
alrighty, when i go to the lift again, looks like im draining my radiator, installing foglights & wiring, checking for cracked/dried hoses, and checking torq on valve cover.

oh yeah, and yeah i relize most ppl have 7Ms or 1j's. its all good, you guys help out more than enough haha.

Wow, I just noticed that the 1G uses a VAF (Vane Air Flow) meter.... like the 7M-GE N/As. What a horrible restriction to put on a turbo car. I wonder how much of an increase that engine would see from just converting to a MAP setup... even without tuning there would probably be a decent gain. I'm stunned that Toyota would use that in that setup.

yeah ive noticed that too. need to get all my shit running like it should...or close to it before i go and start swapping parts for upgrades...
(oil leak, headlight relay, plug wires, foglights, all need to be installed/replaced)

im assuming you guys would reccomend MSD 8.5mm plug wires?
seems like the best out there.

opinions?


ohh yeah, ALSO IMPORTANT: my oil pressure is sky high, it reads around 6 to 8 sometimes, on the stock gauge if im just cruizing at about 40 KPH and 2k rpms...
wierd.

Yes MSD wires are the best you can buy for a MK3.

Look closer and you will see that the 1G shares another part with non-turbo 7M's, that would be a distributor. No DIS ignition system there. That hinders performace likewise, no wonder the engine was only rated at 210hp with twin turbos :dunno:

So I would guess that you would use MSD wires for a non-turbo MK3. Because "turbo" 7M wires will be too short because the coils sit directly on top of the spark plugs and you need them to reach over to the distributor.

6 to 8 what? Bar? If its bar, then holy shit you have problems there. Thats like over 80psi. I don't know much about 1G's, but I know enough to know your oil pressure is too high.

*cough* Taylor */cough* ;) The down side is you have to build them yourself.


Yeah, 6 to 8 what? Kg/cm^2?

6-8 kg/cm^2

thats what it says on the gauge.

sometimes it will be around 4 like its suppose to, its wierd.

Wow, that's from 85 - 114psi. Bar, by the way, is damned close to the same as Kg/cm^2: 8bar = 116psi 8Kg/cm^2 = 114psi.

Keep in mind though that oil pressure is not static, some increase per higher engine speeds is normal (if it wasn't going up I'd be worried).

Any way, that's a lot higher than I would expect to see from a Toyota of that vintage. What weight oil are you running? Did the previous owner do any of their own work? They may have modified the oil pump's relief valving. Look for the pressure specs per RPM for that engine, it may be fine... I really don't know.

yeah, i just drove it and now it seems to be fine, stays around 4 and goes up as rpms do.

this car is like a freakin woman man, always changing its mind.....

Sounds like a ford to me, lol.

My oil pressure fluctuates with rpm's.

in my NA it would idle at around 40 psi and would go as high as 60psi when around 5k rpm. dont know whats normal but the 7m did blow a hg...

On a 7M, when the oil is under 190 degrees the pressure will be just below 40psi when driving and around 25-30psi when idleing.

When the oil is up to normal operating temp, 190+ degrees, oil pressure should be around 10psi at idle and just below 40psi at 3000rpm or higher.

Try replacing the oil pressure sending unit, its worth a shot.

Mine never went below 20 while in motion and went to well over 60.

Alas a BHG was not far behind. It might actually act different once I get the beast to CRANK.