another f*** up!!

IHateHacks · 06-07-2007, 09:05 PM

Any decent machine shop will take a head with the cams still bolted in even with the cam gears still on. They will take all of it off so, like stated, the valves will be closed allowing for the sealing surface to get cut. They will replace the cam seals, torque all the caps to spec and make sure they get installed into their original order.

I would just take the head as is to a good machine shop and have them figure it out, they will let you know if you need a new head or not, my guess would be the head is fine.

tone loc · 06-09-2007, 08:20 AM

yeah i took the head to a shop today and they said they will see what they can do about that problem (he said they will tey using cheese cloth) im getting the head maged and milled and possibly a valve job which comes to a grand total of $400 for the head to look like it just came off the factory assembly line

tone loc · 06-14-2007, 05:41 PM

just got the head back today. cost $400 for a mag and mill and then a valve job

taking the block in next week

there is still a little gash do think it will effect anything? (second pic)

cre · 06-15-2007, 02:14 AM

Have a better picture of the "gash". The surface looks a little rough, if you're going with an OEM HG it's fine if you're going MHG I'd lap it.

tone loc · 06-15-2007, 07:06 AM

heres some closer pics

what does lapping consit of? how do i do it?

im going mhg

supramacist · 06-15-2007, 07:30 AM

Welp atleast most of that will be removed during the machining process.
So you have nothing much to worry about with the head.

But lapping the block is an entirely different story. It's not a quick job. I sanded on mine for a good while. You'll need a machined straight edge and a feeler gauge. You're going to need a sanding block long enough to lay across the block.

You have to remove the feeler or guide pins on the front and rear of the actual block. You'll need to stuff your cylinder walls with trifolded towels and you want to drop a bit below tdc. So you don't sand on 1 and 6.

Do yourself a favor and pull the damn thing and take it someplace and have it done right if you don't think you can handle it. It takes a bit the first time and you want to do it 1 fail swoop. Don't tear it down and let it sit for a few months.

I spent the better part of a year planning my build. It's nearly completed.

Good Luck.

tone loc · 06-15-2007, 02:12 PM

did you read this full thread supramacist? i have a jdm engine sitting on my garage floor and the picture of the head is after they got done maching

06-14-2007, 05:41 PM	#3
tone loc 20psi boost Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Chicago Posts: 706	just got the head back today. cost $400 for a mag and mill and then a valve job taking the block in next week there is still a little gash do think it will effect anything? (second pic) Attached Thumbnails

06-15-2007, 07:06 AM	#5
tone loc 20psi boost Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Chicago Posts: 706	heres some closer pics what does lapping consit of? how do i do it? im going mhg Attached Thumbnails

06-07-2007, 09:05 PM	#1
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Any decent machine shop will take a head with the cams still bolted in even with the cam gears still on. They will take all of it off so, like stated, the valves will be closed allowing for the sealing surface to get cut. They will replace the cam seals, torque all the caps to spec and make sure they get installed into their original order. I would just take the head as is to a good machine shop and have them figure it out, they will let you know if you need a new head or not, my guess would be the head is fine.

06-09-2007, 08:20 AM	#2
tone loc 20psi boost Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Chicago Posts: 706	yeah i took the head to a shop today and they said they will see what they can do about that problem (he said they will tey using cheese cloth) im getting the head maged and milled and possibly a valve job which comes to a grand total of $400 for the head to look like it just came off the factory assembly line

06-15-2007, 02:14 AM	#4
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Have a better picture of the "gash". The surface looks a little rough, if you're going with an OEM HG it's fine if you're going MHG I'd lap it.

06-15-2007, 07:30 AM	#6
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Welp atleast most of that will be removed during the machining process. So you have nothing much to worry about with the head. But lapping the block is an entirely different story. It's not a quick job. I sanded on mine for a good while. You'll need a machined straight edge and a feeler gauge. You're going to need a sanding block long enough to lay across the block. You have to remove the feeler or guide pins on the front and rear of the actual block. You'll need to stuff your cylinder walls with trifolded towels and you want to drop a bit below tdc. So you don't sand on 1 and 6. Do yourself a favor and pull the damn thing and take it someplace and have it done right if you don't think you can handle it. It takes a bit the first time and you want to do it 1 fail swoop. Don't tear it down and let it sit for a few months. I spent the better part of a year planning my build. It's nearly completed. Good Luck.

06-15-2007, 02:12 PM	#7
tone loc 20psi boost Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Chicago Posts: 706	did you read this full thread supramacist? i have a jdm engine sitting on my garage floor and the picture of the head is after they got done maching