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engine will not rotate
before I could even get a compression check the engine will not rotate, first I tried to rotate the crankshaft with a socket wrench and it turned only so far one way and so far the other way so I rotated it counter clock wise till it stoped and tried to start it. it would try to go and just stop at the certain part it stoped at clock wise. what could be wrong? has any one had this problem before and fixed it. and some one mentioned engine seize, what is engine seize and can it be fixed.
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Why are you trying to turn the crank manually for a compression test? Sounds like hell.
Pull the spark plugs and check for anything inside the cylinder which could be getting in the way... such as a valve. Have someone using a flashlight watch to see if the pistons are moving while you try to turn the crank. If the crank turns without the plugs in you're just fighting with the compressing air. |
no I did not try to turn it first, I tried to start it with the spark plugs out and the compression checker in the spark plugs place, but the engine would not rotate or start so I looked in the haynes manual and it said to try and turn the engine with a socket wrench and that is when the engine would only turn so far clock wise and so far counter clock wise. and if it turned over I was going to compression check it, but you said it could be a stuck valve? how would you check it? with a light looking into the spark plug hole and if it is a stuck valve would I have to just remove the valve cover and fix it or the whole head
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Wow. What did you do to this engine? Did you drive it and now it won't rotate? Rev the shit out of it with no oil in it racing a Honda?
You definately have catastrophic engine damage on your hands. These are not interferance motors, so you can rule out valves causing this problem. If you can only rotate the motor so far one way and another, then you probably threw a connecting rod. Go look in your haynes manual to see what that is. A little background on how this car was running before would help. Did it ever run? Or did you get the car like this? |
Don't be so quick to rule out a valve. If a spring snaps the keepers can drop out letting the entire valve drop into the cylinder. Yeah, a rod is definitely another possibility.... that or (I sure hope this isn't the case) the tranny is in gear. lol
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True.
Even with the trans in gear, you will have no problem spinning the crank with a breaker bar. 1st, 2nd, 5th, Reverse, it don't matter. I can actually move my car with it in gear with a breaker bar. If you can't turn the motor with the starter, you are not going to spin it by hand, I can tell you that much. We still need more info to even try to guess at whats wrong. Did the motor run up until you took the spark plugs out and threaded the compression tester in? Is that when the motor would not turn? I'm now thinking he dropped something in there like a bolt.... |
no I have never driven it I bought it from my friend for $100 because it sat in his fathers yard and he made him sell it and I have not had the money to work on it so I just done minor things to it so far like inflate the tires wash it and vacume it out he took all the fluid out of it because he was going to replace the head gasket so I never really cranked it untill I bought some cheap oil and put it on the battery charger and I was going to compression check it to make shure it does not need piston rings and other parts while i disasimble it
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Why check the comp of you you know you have a shitty gasket.
It doesn't matter if it's kind of crappy or all the way crappy. Change it or them. Come on man you've got one. USE IT. |
I was going to comprssion check it and then sqirt a little oil in the spark plug holes and see if the rings needed to be replaced so I dont have to rip it apart a nother time and buy another head gasket when I replace the rings I am kind of cheap I want to find out all wrong now so I dont speed extra money later
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Well it COULD be a seize but not necessarily. For all we know hes got the car in gear with the parking break on. Think of the little things "i hate hacks". You gotta remember everyone in here inst a master toyo tech. Fighting compression shouldnt be that difficult. But ya never know, if hes not that strong, a compression stroke could be hard to fight. |
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How about the starter is stuck out and in a position where it wont spin(there is a sweet spot)
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Or maybe a spark plug exploded in one of the cylinders and left crap in there...
Though its probably a mechanical failure... |
I dont see were he said it was a 5spd or a auto, sounds to me that someone ran it out of oil and the engine seized, there isnt any holes in the block so if it throw a rod then it was done at low rpms, if it a five speed it wont turn over and push it off, get it rolling and pop it into gear, but then again it kind of sounds like its a auto.
And probly if the engine is seized it might just be cheaper to find a lowmilage engine to put in it then rebuilding that one to get it to work. |
how can you find out if a rod was trown through the engine, and it is a manual transmission
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I looked at the starter today how can you find out if it is stuck do you have to remove the transmission
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I threw a rod in my 7MGE at like 2000 revs. Half went through the no. 5 wall, the other have went down into the oil pan (punctured it) then up into the no. 6 and went through that pistons' wall. Afterwards, it would still crank over with the starter (and actually fire too). It eventually stopped starting (after obvious massive oil leak), but I could still hand crank it with a breaker bar; it just got difficult every now and then. One of these days I should take a pic of that no. 5 piston and post it up here; it's pretty sick looking.
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Pulling the starter is the best way I can think of. As for the clutch, there's an inspection plate on the bell housing you can pull off to take a look inside. I presume the transmission's not the issue as I assume you had it out of gear when it was towed? |
cre how do you tell if the pistons are moving can you look into the spark plug holes
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btwilson86 did you have to replace your engine or can you repair it
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I replaced the engine... JDM import. I figured that it'd be easier than replacing the block... The old one has two baseball sized holes in it (one on each side).
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By now you could have already pulled the cam covers, the cams and valve buckets to see if a spring snapped or a keeper failed. Then all that would be left are pulling the oil pan and checking on the flywheel. I understand though, time's tight and you don't have all the tools? |
well..to begin ,getting a little more info from the guys you bought it from would be very helpfull, as far as I understand..the engine has been sitting with no oil or coolant for over a year... first thing first.
1... remove all belts and try turning the engine with a breaker bar... this will eliminate a zeised a/c compressor or alternator or something. 2...make sure supra is in neutral...dont forget to block wheels. 3...if none of this works, its possible that AT some point water got in the combustion chambers and created some rust or a rust lip in the cylinder wall that prevents the cylinder from going past it.. 3.5 if this is the case ,remove the spark plugs and put engine oil or wd 40 or any rust penetrant in the combustion chambers, let it soak and try again to turn the cranck. 4..check for holes on your engine block...some of these are dificult since they tend to end up under the intake manifold near the starter.. |
I have looked today uner the car and tried what cre said with checking the pistons, how large could the hole be because I have not seen any thing inperticular yet, but some more information to tell all you guys with the pistons now it will only turn less clock wise and counter clock wise than the day before
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with the inspection plate on the transmission to the engine can you take this part off I saw it in the haynes manual it did not say any thing about removing it and if you can will you see where the starter connects with the fly wheel and find any thing jamed in to it
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If it's moving even less it sounds more like either a thrown rod or shifting debris.
For lubing up siezed pistons either penetrating oil or ATF work quite well. The detergents help free it up better than motor oil or WD-40. I've seen holes in the sides of block ranging anywhere from 1 square inch up to 6" round... it really depends on which rod, what part of the wall and which block casting you have. |
If you remove the inspection plate, it'll show you a portion of the flywheel where it connects to your torque converter. Also, undoing the 2 bolts for the starter and removing it will tell you if you have anything jammed in there, or any evidence of damage on the flywheel teeth and starter gear. However, the removal of the inspection plate for checking the flywheel is really only helpful if you can turn the engine over with a breaker bar... Which we all know you can't at this point.
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I have the same problem as this guy exept heres the difference, my car was running fine other than i know my head gasket was starting to go but it wasnt overheating or anything i drove my car on my lunch brake a few days ago and then i parked it and i tried starting i after work and it njust clunks so we pulled it into the shop and watched the flywheel as i tried starting it and it will only move about an inch, i also tried turnign the crank by hand and could only move it about an inch , remember the car was running FINE when i parked it and only sat for a couple of hours, what could this be?
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Your headgasket blew and the cylinder filled up with coolant as it cooled. Take the plugs out and I bet the car will turn over...
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