Flamed for that? 99% of the people here don't even know how to take the crank pulley off anyway, and the 1% that do, if they have a better way of doing it, IM ALL EARS.

Good luck finding a prybar. I got mine from a tech buddy that works at a dealership, and he bought it from snap-on.

Just, when you do wind up doing it, get someone you really trust to hold the prybar, or you hold the prybar if you only trust yourself with your car (like I did). Someone that is stronger than you so you don't overpower them when you try to loosen the crank bolt and make them slip off the flywheel and possibly damage it.

This may sound stupid. But it just dawned on me. If I take the car out of neutral and puit it in gear...., will it hold it self while I twist on the crank. Just a thought.

I don't trust anyone with my car. LOL. I may have to put the old lady to work. LOL, make her earn her keep. I'm kidding about the wife part not the trust part. Hell half the time I don't trust myself.

Alright...., I went to lowes and purchased a pry bar.
When I got home I pulled the starter. Jeez I monkey'd with those bolts for damn long time.

Now I'm going to phone a friend and see if I can get him signed up for duty tomorrow at his convenience, ofcourse.

^ what i did. I just put it in second so the clutch wouldnt slip off, and pulled the park brake up as hard as i possibly could with out thinking the cable would snap. I used this method about 5 maybe 6 times while doing my front main seal and timing belt, etc all the shit under there. Not as risky as messing up the flywheel, and is ALOT easier. It takes about 2 seconds :)

I put it in every gear with the e brake pulled and someone hitting the main brake. The tranny just won't hold it.

And just for shits and giggles last night I tried the 19mm and it fit perfectly so I was wrong hack hater. I could have sworn I tried that and couldn't get it on.

I have a buddy coming over this evening to help me. I'm not thrilled about the pry bar idea. But it seems to be the only way I have to tame this beast.

I'm going to duck tape it heavily so it won't be metal on metal. I just spent 100 bucks on an idle tensioner pulley for the drive belt. If my other one isn't bad after I get it off and compare the two I'll be taking the new one back. It hurts to spend that much money on a pulley. When I'm doing the entire ignition system for around 120ish.

I'm also going to clean the head one more time reall good today so I can get my ARP studs in place. I should be picking the head up on monday.

Nope, putting the car in gear with the ebrake pulled will NOT stop the crank from spinning 100% of the time. Sure it might have worked for you but it sure as hell didn't work for me, and it didn't work for supramacist either.

And for the last time I DIDN'T MESS UP MY FLYWHEEL WITH THE PRYBAR!!! Like I said, the flywheel is so much larger in diameter than the crank bolt you have leverage on your side, you barely have to hold the flywheel while you crack it loose. It's the only method that is guaranteed to work 100% of the time. Car in gear with the ebrake on will NOT work on every car, period.

The only reason why it worked for you kuban is because your crank bolt wasn't torqued to the 195ft/lbs the TSRM recommends.

Let's all count to 10 and take a deep breath here and squash the hostility.

I trust ya hack hater. No probs, dude.
I bought the prybar and got the starter out.
I even duct taped it nicely as to not have metal on metal.

I gotta say gents, ihatehacks is right on this one.
I have crawled over and under this pig looking for a better way and even with a pulley puller it doesn't hold what I need held so it's worthless.

I say it's funny though how my 19mm and my 21mm fit the same damn stud.

Installed the ARP studs today. I'll bust that nut when it's time. And That's like now's good.

Funny how nobody said to use an air gun. Because that won't work on a Mk3 supra either. I've taken crank pulleys off alot of different vehicles before and an air gun gets most of them off, but most of them are not torqued to 195ft/lbs. Some are torqued to 100, some lower, some higher but not 195.

And now lets think about putting it back on, say you use the starter bump method, ok, now what? How are you going to keep the crank from spinning clockwise? Lets say you use the car in gear and ebrake on method. You aren't going to be able to torque that crank bolt no where near 195ft/lbs. And you certainly won't get it that tight with an air gun. This is where the prybar method works both ways without any problems. I'm going to be totally honest with you now, I only torqued my crank bolt to 150ft/lbs (I said that in my BHG post) because that was the highest my 1/2" torque wrench went (that 3/8" digital snap on only goes to 100ft/lbs). I actually torqued the crank bolt myself, pry bar in my right hand and torque wrench in my left. And when that thing hit 150 it made a click like I've never heard a torque wrench make. But when I had to get it off, I held the prybar and I had a friend loosen the bolt.

You might have a problem fitting the prybar tip inbetween the flywheel teeth with alot of duct tape on there, but just use your discretion.

I didn't put much tape on there because I didn't want any chunks falling down inside. It's just enough on the tip to insert. I think it'll be fine.


This sucks we have hit a spot of nasty weather and it's hard to get my buddies motivated, lol. I could probably tighten it as you did, but I know I can't break it alone.

The tape and the prybar work just fine.

I just can't get the crank bolt to budge. So I'm going to soak it in more pb blaster and try again later. Nothing worth doing is ever easy.