Main pulley removal.

SupraDupra · 03-14-2007, 01:01 PM

'fraid I haven't got a clue. The only time I've ever had difficulty is when I removed pullies with IHatehacks "walking" method. I would be leary of using a torch to heat it ,as you may damage the rubber seal on the balancer.

IHateHacks · 03-14-2007, 03:24 PM

You should not be having this much trouble. I suspect, by what you just said, that the last person to take it off (whoever rebuilt it) didn't torque the crank bolt to 195 ft/lbs (which would explain why you didn't have a problem taking it off) and since then, from running the engine like that, the crank pulley started to "spin" on the woodruff key on the crank and now the part of the key that doesn't contact the pulley is catching on the pulley when you try to pull it off. Its hard to explain but it happens on many cars, on 89-95 SHO motors its called crank cancer.

If you ever do get it off I bet the woodruff key will be in 2 or 3 pieces.

If you can't take it off the way I did with a screwdriver, something is not right.

Kuban · 03-14-2007, 08:35 PM

Yea what you said does make sense. And that would be the end result. And it really wasnt my idea to hit it with a torche for a few seconds, one of the service techs at toyota told me too. But he did say watch out for hitting the ballencer and the crank, dont get it too hot, just enough to make the metal expand a hair because thats all ill need.

Well if the key is sheared and stuck in the crank with the pulley half on it, how do i remove it????? The only thing i can think of it heat and alot of force, which might in turn end up killing my crank.... but that pulley would be done for

Kuban · 03-15-2007, 01:59 AM

Ok, well i got the pulley off tonight. It just took ALOT of force and it costed me the pulley puller that broke right when i got it off. Now i dont need to take off the front cover to do the main seal and oil pump seal do i? I should just have to take off the timing gear and i can work them off right? If thats the case i should be able to finish this project tomorrow.

IHateHacks · 03-15-2007, 02:19 AM

The crank seal is right behind the crank timing sprocket (the cogged one that the timing belt goes on). The oil pump drive shaft seal is behind the oil pump drive gear. If the cover you are talking about is the aluminum lower timing cover then yea it has to come off. If you are talking about the inner timing case, no that does not have to come off (its a BITCH to take off anyways) but it makes replacing the seals alot easier.

The front crank seal is not that hard to replace, as long as you use the SST. If you don't have the SST then be careful not to scratch the crank or all this work will be done in vain. But the oil pump drive shaft seal is different. The TSRM says to cut off the lip of the oil seal with a knife and then tape a screwdriver and pry it out. There is no SST to remove the oil pump drive shaft seal. I've never replaced an oil pump drive shaft seal on these engines so good luck.

Kuban · 03-15-2007, 07:44 AM

yea thats what i figured. I read the tsrm on all this. But it was a bit unclear as far as the lower timing cover and the front cover.

Kuban · 03-15-2007, 10:09 AM

As far as the SST for the main seal goes. The oil pump drive shaft and the rear main seal both have the same method of removal. That with the knife and a tapped screwdriver tip. Since i already have both the main seal and the oil driveshaft seal, i can tell you they look no different besides diameter. So i see no reason, if im carefull, why i cant use the same method on the main seal. Ill probably use an Xacto-knife for the cutting making this process all the more easier and me less likely to apply to much force and slip.

03-14-2007, 01:01 PM	#1
SupraDupra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Cleveland OH Posts: 129	'fraid I haven't got a clue. The only time I've ever had difficulty is when I removed pullies with IHatehacks "walking" method. I would be leary of using a torch to heat it ,as you may damage the rubber seal on the balancer. __________________ 1988 Supra - N/A 5 speed 1974 'Cuda - 318 2001 Cherokee Last edited by SupraDupra; 03-14-2007 at 01:02 PM. Reason: spelling

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03-14-2007, 03:24 PM	#2
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	You should not be having this much trouble. I suspect, by what you just said, that the last person to take it off (whoever rebuilt it) didn't torque the crank bolt to 195 ft/lbs (which would explain why you didn't have a problem taking it off) and since then, from running the engine like that, the crank pulley started to "spin" on the woodruff key on the crank and now the part of the key that doesn't contact the pulley is catching on the pulley when you try to pull it off. Its hard to explain but it happens on many cars, on 89-95 SHO motors its called crank cancer. If you ever do get it off I bet the woodruff key will be in 2 or 3 pieces. If you can't take it off the way I did with a screwdriver, something is not right.

03-14-2007, 08:35 PM	#3
Kuban 3" Exhaust Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 174	Yea what you said does make sense. And that would be the end result. And it really wasnt my idea to hit it with a torche for a few seconds, one of the service techs at toyota told me too. But he did say watch out for hitting the ballencer and the crank, dont get it too hot, just enough to make the metal expand a hair because thats all ill need. Well if the key is sheared and stuck in the crank with the pulley half on it, how do i remove it????? The only thing i can think of it heat and alot of force, which might in turn end up killing my crank.... but that pulley would be done for

03-15-2007, 01:59 AM	#4
Kuban 3" Exhaust Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 174	Ok, well i got the pulley off tonight. It just took ALOT of force and it costed me the pulley puller that broke right when i got it off. Now i dont need to take off the front cover to do the main seal and oil pump seal do i? I should just have to take off the timing gear and i can work them off right? If thats the case i should be able to finish this project tomorrow.

03-15-2007, 02:19 AM	#5
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	The crank seal is right behind the crank timing sprocket (the cogged one that the timing belt goes on). The oil pump drive shaft seal is behind the oil pump drive gear. If the cover you are talking about is the aluminum lower timing cover then yea it has to come off. If you are talking about the inner timing case, no that does not have to come off (its a BITCH to take off anyways) but it makes replacing the seals alot easier. The front crank seal is not that hard to replace, as long as you use the SST. If you don't have the SST then be careful not to scratch the crank or all this work will be done in vain. But the oil pump drive shaft seal is different. The TSRM says to cut off the lip of the oil seal with a knife and then tape a screwdriver and pry it out. There is no SST to remove the oil pump drive shaft seal. I've never replaced an oil pump drive shaft seal on these engines so good luck.

03-15-2007, 07:44 AM	#6
Kuban 3" Exhaust Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 174	yea thats what i figured. I read the tsrm on all this. But it was a bit unclear as far as the lower timing cover and the front cover.

03-15-2007, 10:09 AM	#7
Kuban 3" Exhaust Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 174	As far as the SST for the main seal goes. The oil pump drive shaft and the rear main seal both have the same method of removal. That with the knife and a tapped screwdriver tip. Since i already have both the main seal and the oil driveshaft seal, i can tell you they look no different besides diameter. So i see no reason, if im carefull, why i cant use the same method on the main seal. Ill probably use an Xacto-knife for the cutting making this process all the more easier and me less likely to apply to much force and slip.