but what about the cam? is that ok for it to be like that "normal"

that is for the CPS sensor, the cam drives it and that is the "gear" that makes it work.

Yep thats how its suppost to look. If you look harder you'll notice only the exhaust cam has that gear (for the CPS as stated) and the intake cam does not have a gear.

As far as your #1-5 spark plugs looking good and #6 plug looking different, that sounds eerily similar to what mine looked like with a BHG. I can post a pic of my 1-5 plugs and my #6 plug. When I took off my head, all the valves in 1-5 looked the same but #6 looked different, just like the plugs were. That happens because its burning water which "cleans" the combustion chamber. But you don't have to take my word for it....

well i looked once again, i lied it was 5, but i thought well while im here i might as well clean up the motor, so i moved the coil pack, painted the valve covers, and some bracket thingys. we just finished putting some fresh 10W 30 oil in it and a new oil filter, but not starting it till i get some more oil cause its barley on the bottom of the dipstick.

http://a631.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...dc88ddccde.jpghttp://a627.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...45e970fc8a.jpg

ok im confused, so my car was working great, boostin perfect a little lag here and there, drove it fine for about 3-4 weeks HARD!! and and and that stupid light came back on, checked it still a knock sensor. im not 100% shur on this but 86 octane gas didnt cause to many issues but then today i put 92octane in and now the damn light wont stay off it just keep going on and then ill turn it off and restart it and drive it and ill make it through 1st gear, then i goto 2nd and you can just feel it drag almost as it like what you guys said, leaky injector or maby a stuck injector or 2. if i make it through 2nd then ill goto 3rd and then it'll drag again kinda chugs along.

im also having an idle issue, i have read about this alot but everything is all diffrent or the conversation never was finished. be driving then come to a stop or put in the clutch or nutrael and then the RPM's just drop and then it chugs a little goes below 500rpm then will go back up. it will do it sometimes after running it then turn it off come back about 30min to an 1hr and start it and same thing drops down and goes back up. the car idles most of the time when its not doing it at 600-700rpm and COLD 900-1200RPM. dont know if this will make an easier answer to my issue.

should i just get a fuel upgrade kit? If so what should i get and where can i get it cheap? not ready to pay 1,175$ for a full upgrade, or the 870$ for the slight upgrade unless im shur this is my issue.

Question: Why did you move the coil packs? And thats some ghetto wiring job you did....

You do know that you just totally messed with the resistance values between the coil packs and the harness right? That could be one of your problems. Why don't you put it back where it belongs and then further diagnose your problem.

I'm not saying that is your only problem, but it sure is not helping.

i moved it so i could make it look a little cleaner, it really shouldnt have caused any issues ive seen it done before. the wireing was redone that was a temporary wiring :) i have a newer picture of it finished and you dont even see the wires anymore.

any other ideas?