Gas + oil
 

ok so i got a gas smell to my oil, as you might remember i have got a code 52 knock sensor going on, it use to be just when i boosted a little past stock, but now its starting to come on all the time, i went and added some coolant, and while i was there i checked the oil, its 1/2 full and has a smell of gas to it, oil rings? EGR? piston rings?

for the code 52 i did check my CAT, and it was slightly melted, made a test pipe to replace it, its still going on, the gas smells fine though its not smelling rich or anything. but my main cocern are those 2 issues.

what you guys think?

anyone? help? i know this has gotta be bad

the smell of gas in your oil means you are running too rich, if the oil is watery and smell you have a stuck injector or 2, check your O2 sensor, and also check your injectors or cold start injector to see if its leaking.

Make sure you do an oil change if you werent already thinking it. I've seen gas and oil get churned into a grease like mix ,not healthy.

Code 52 is not cat related. Its generally the knock sensor, or the wiring to it.

The gassy oil is either: you haven't changed the oil and filter in a very long time, or the PCV system is plugged up, or you are running way too rich (and the extra fuel is slipping by the piston rings). Or ALL of the above.

No matter which, you need to fix it, as your cylinder walls won't last long with this problem.

well i was told in the the last post that i did, that when the knock sensor turns on my timing goes retarded "runs rich" ive never touched any of the filters besides the air filter. i havnt had any money to fix crap. lost my job. im just trying to get trough college to get my automotive degree.

I know the knock sensor, when working normally, will not allow timing advance if it picks up a pre-detonation of fuel, which causes a 'pinging'. I don't believe it will 'retard' the timing lower than the initial setting, factory 10*, others, like myself, 15*.

I believe I read a thread along time ago, here or on SM, that the computer richens the mixture. There was an argument, but I don't think it was ever confirmed.

Perhaps tomorrow I will put my car on the dyno, and smog machine, and pull the wire off the knock sensor and see if the mixture changes (by much).

But certainly driving the car with the timing not advancing as it should will cause bad fuel economy.

ok well me and a friend did some inspecting on the car, 02sensor is fine a little dirty but not enough to mess anything up and we checked the voltmeter and it says its good. EGR filter looks good, theres a little burn mark smaller than a cigerette burn in it but looks new. we pulled off the valve covers, cams sit a little odd, the drivers side cam sits perfectly in slot where the timing gear is, but the passenger one is coming out pretty good amount is this normal? <ill post a picture showing what im talking about.) then last but not least we looked at the spark plugs, cylinders 1-5 look good and barley used cylinder 6 looks brand new why?
today we will check out the injectors and possibly change the oil filter. and if we have the time we will do a compression check.

http://a804.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...0ca1920d03.jpg
http://a361.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...76ad91f570.jpg

ok the first pictuer is just showing the cams, the 2nd is showing what i was talking about this is looking towards the timing cover <drivers side -- passengers side>

If cylinder 6 plug looks new, then that plug is either not firing, or thats where the leaky injector is, you need to check that out by pulling th e 6 plug wire off and grounding it by pointing it at the block or a piece of exposed metal off and have someone start the car and see if spark is coming from the plug, if there is then leaky injector if not bad plug wire or ciol

but what about the cam? is that ok for it to be like that "normal"

that is for the CPS sensor, the cam drives it and that is the "gear" that makes it work.

Yep thats how its suppost to look. If you look harder you'll notice only the exhaust cam has that gear (for the CPS as stated) and the intake cam does not have a gear.

As far as your #1-5 spark plugs looking good and #6 plug looking different, that sounds eerily similar to what mine looked like with a BHG. I can post a pic of my 1-5 plugs and my #6 plug. When I took off my head, all the valves in 1-5 looked the same but #6 looked different, just like the plugs were. That happens because its burning water which "cleans" the combustion chamber. But you don't have to take my word for it....

well i looked once again, i lied it was 5, but i thought well while im here i might as well clean up the motor, so i moved the coil pack, painted the valve covers, and some bracket thingys. we just finished putting some fresh 10W 30 oil in it and a new oil filter, but not starting it till i get some more oil cause its barley on the bottom of the dipstick.

http://a631.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...dc88ddccde.jpghttp://a627.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...45e970fc8a.jpg

ok im confused, so my car was working great, boostin perfect a little lag here and there, drove it fine for about 3-4 weeks HARD!! and and and that stupid light came back on, checked it still a knock sensor. im not 100% shur on this but 86 octane gas didnt cause to many issues but then today i put 92octane in and now the damn light wont stay off it just keep going on and then ill turn it off and restart it and drive it and ill make it through 1st gear, then i goto 2nd and you can just feel it drag almost as it like what you guys said, leaky injector or maby a stuck injector or 2. if i make it through 2nd then ill goto 3rd and then it'll drag again kinda chugs along.

im also having an idle issue, i have read about this alot but everything is all diffrent or the conversation never was finished. be driving then come to a stop or put in the clutch or nutrael and then the RPM's just drop and then it chugs a little goes below 500rpm then will go back up. it will do it sometimes after running it then turn it off come back about 30min to an 1hr and start it and same thing drops down and goes back up. the car idles most of the time when its not doing it at 600-700rpm and COLD 900-1200RPM. dont know if this will make an easier answer to my issue.

should i just get a fuel upgrade kit? If so what should i get and where can i get it cheap? not ready to pay 1,175$ for a full upgrade, or the 870$ for the slight upgrade unless im shur this is my issue.

Question: Why did you move the coil packs? And thats some ghetto wiring job you did....

You do know that you just totally messed with the resistance values between the coil packs and the harness right? That could be one of your problems. Why don't you put it back where it belongs and then further diagnose your problem.

I'm not saying that is your only problem, but it sure is not helping.

i moved it so i could make it look a little cleaner, it really shouldnt have caused any issues ive seen it done before. the wireing was redone that was a temporary wiring :) i have a newer picture of it finished and you dont even see the wires anymore.

any other ideas?