and so it begins

IHateHacks · 05-02-2007, 04:24 PM

A stock head gasket (new) with ARP bolts, has been proven to withstand 14psi all day.

Head studs are meant for full race applications. It's more about the quality of the head gasket install (head and block machine work, etc.) than what hardware you use. ARP head studs are the best in the world, there's nothing better.

supramacist · 05-02-2007, 08:59 PM

alright dude. I found this out the scenic way.
Your arp washers have to be installed after setting the head onto the HG.
Because if you set it on the studs and try to install them....., there is no clearance for washers.

So even after dropping the head you still have to remove what studs you have installed to place the washers.

You don't need any studs in the block. The placement pins will catch the head and line it up.

So..., then you install the washers. Now you won't have room to place the nuts on the studs so you thread them and then drop them through the washers. Then hand tighten them with your allen wrench. My studs didn't come with the allen wrench but I have plenty so no big deal.

After you have the studs "finger" tight. Use your deep welled 14mm socket and an extention and tighten the nuts to finger tight. No wratchet. Do it by hand.

Now you are ready for the torque wrench. Follow the bolt pattern in your tsrm. Everyone says to do it in 3 stages of torquing. I did mine in 5 stages and went to 85lbs. ARP says to go to 80 lbs.

Whatever you do..., DO NOT FORGET TO USE THE MOLLY. On the tops and bottom of the studs. A little bit of molly goes a long way.

You will find that the #10 stud is tight even after rotating the cam to the flat spot. If your socket hangs up...., remove the wratchet and wiggle the socket with the extention attached, and they will come loose.

I just did mine over the weekend. This is the easiest way IMO. Take your time. Don't rush the torquing process. I also kept my allen wrench and moved it one spot behind me as I moved forward. Because if you have to leave it for some reason or look up for too long. You'll be lost.

Don't stop torquing half way through a cycle. After all 14 are tight..., take a break. Give them a few minutes to acclimate, smoke a joint or wack off, whatever floats your boat and then go back and repeat the process.

Kidding about the joint and slapping the ham there. lol.

These are just opinions and there is a reason they are free.

supramacist · 05-02-2007, 09:01 PM

I also have a top line head gasket that is brand new that I didn't use. Its' thickness is 0.76

If you would like it..., make me an offer, and you cover shipping.

IHateHacks · 05-03-2007, 01:12 AM

Very well put supramacist!

Even with ARP bolts, the cams have to be just right to fit the socket in there.

*Sniff* *Sniff* I smell weed.....LOL

Funny shit man.

Ok back on topic.......

supramacist · 05-03-2007, 01:56 AM

Man, you can do as you like..., but I went and bought a fat tube of crc brand molly. It was right at 4 bucks. Lube everything as you put it together.

Cuz if your rides like mine..., I'll be working on it again.

Oh..., and Thanks Double H. I do what I can when I can do it.

marc · 05-04-2007, 06:58 PM

k well, i had my head inspected, and it does not need ot be machined, just having the gasket material taken off and smoothed. the block im ganna do myself.

whiel my turbo is pulledi ordered a 3inch turbo elbow, it came today..o soo polished and big. it looks so nice. i cleaned up my turbo too. and shimmed the wastegate 4 washers. i want ot know how much horses i will be puttin out with the 3 inch elbow, 3 inch down pipe, k&n intake systerm, and the shimmed w.g.

supramacist · 05-04-2007, 07:35 PM

I believe you get 4 to 5 hp from shimming the waiste gate but again that is all hear say.

Going to 3 inch exhaust all the way around will give you some nice top end. It shouldn't mess with your lower end torque too much sinse you're a GTE.

I would guess the exhaust swap would give you an additional 10 hp. But I am sure someone will correct me sinse I am ball park guessing. I think those are pretty safe or "close" estimates.

05-03-2007, 01:56 AM	#5
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Man, you can do as you like..., but I went and bought a fat tube of crc brand molly. It was right at 4 bucks. Lube everything as you put it together. Cuz if your rides like mine..., I'll be working on it again. Oh..., and Thanks Double H. I do what I can when I can do it. Last edited by supramacist; 05-03-2007 at 01:58 AM.

05-04-2007, 06:58 PM	#6
marc 12psi boost Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: salem mass Posts: 329	k well, i had my head inspected, and it does not need ot be machined, just having the gasket material taken off and smoothed. the block im ganna do myself. whiel my turbo is pulledi ordered a 3inch turbo elbow, it came today..o soo polished and big. it looks so nice. i cleaned up my turbo too. and shimmed the wastegate 4 washers. i want ot know how much horses i will be puttin out with the 3 inch elbow, 3 inch down pipe, k&n intake systerm, and the shimmed w.g. __________________ nothing but the best -mods- so far K&N intake fipk 3" megan downpipe 3"turbo elbow 4 washers on the wastegate highflow cat short shifter 89+ front bumper, pic soon to come many more upgrades soon

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05-02-2007, 04:24 PM	#1
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	A stock head gasket (new) with ARP bolts, has been proven to withstand 14psi all day. Head studs are meant for full race applications. It's more about the quality of the head gasket install (head and block machine work, etc.) than what hardware you use. ARP head studs are the best in the world, there's nothing better.

05-02-2007, 08:59 PM	#2
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	alright dude. I found this out the scenic way. Your arp washers have to be installed after setting the head onto the HG. Because if you set it on the studs and try to install them....., there is no clearance for washers. So even after dropping the head you still have to remove what studs you have installed to place the washers. You don't need any studs in the block. The placement pins will catch the head and line it up. So..., then you install the washers. Now you won't have room to place the nuts on the studs so you thread them and then drop them through the washers. Then hand tighten them with your allen wrench. My studs didn't come with the allen wrench but I have plenty so no big deal. After you have the studs "finger" tight. Use your deep welled 14mm socket and an extention and tighten the nuts to finger tight. No wratchet. Do it by hand. Now you are ready for the torque wrench. Follow the bolt pattern in your tsrm. Everyone says to do it in 3 stages of torquing. I did mine in 5 stages and went to 85lbs. ARP says to go to 80 lbs. Whatever you do..., DO NOT FORGET TO USE THE MOLLY. On the tops and bottom of the studs. A little bit of molly goes a long way. You will find that the #10 stud is tight even after rotating the cam to the flat spot. If your socket hangs up...., remove the wratchet and wiggle the socket with the extention attached, and they will come loose. I just did mine over the weekend. This is the easiest way IMO. Take your time. Don't rush the torquing process. I also kept my allen wrench and moved it one spot behind me as I moved forward. Because if you have to leave it for some reason or look up for too long. You'll be lost. Don't stop torquing half way through a cycle. After all 14 are tight..., take a break. Give them a few minutes to acclimate, smoke a joint or wack off, whatever floats your boat and then go back and repeat the process. Kidding about the joint and slapping the ham there. lol. These are just opinions and there is a reason they are free.

05-02-2007, 09:01 PM	#3
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	I also have a top line head gasket that is brand new that I didn't use. Its' thickness is 0.76 If you would like it..., make me an offer, and you cover shipping.

05-03-2007, 01:12 AM	#4
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Very well put supramacist! Even with ARP bolts, the cams have to be just right to fit the socket in there. Sniff Sniff I smell weed.....LOL Funny shit man. Ok back on topic.......

05-04-2007, 07:35 PM	#7
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	I believe you get 4 to 5 hp from shimming the waiste gate but again that is all hear say. Going to 3 inch exhaust all the way around will give you some nice top end. It shouldn't mess with your lower end torque too much sinse you're a GTE. I would guess the exhaust swap would give you an additional 10 hp. But I am sure someone will correct me sinse I am ball park guessing. I think those are pretty safe or "close" estimates.