ok well i installled an 89+ bumper onto my supra and i have a question. the directional light connections for the japanese bumper dont mate with the american model ones. is there anyway to bypass/hook up diff plugs to make it work? or even rewire the connection?

any1? pleaaase

shimming the wastegate will add more boost levels, like mine boost gauge is pegged out right now, im doing about 10-11psi on the stock turbo, but if you plan on shimming the wastegate its not recommended to go about 4 washers, although just putting 4 on was a pain in the ass.

hey, i just removed my tps..im gettin my throttle body deep cleened to get all the oil and sh!t out of it...is there a certain way the tps has to go back on, does it need ot be reset or anything?

any takers? any1...tps..does it have to be put on a special way or anything?

and do i need to apply any gasket sealer to the block b4 applying the mhg?

You have to calibrate the TPS when you install it on the throttle body, its in the TSRM.

You have to use RTV where the block meets the inner lower timing belt case, its in the TSRM.

The TSRM is your friend. If you don't own one for your year vehicle, call your local dealer and they will tell you how to order one. You really can't do any major mechanical work on this car without the TSRM.

ok well i got it on and all the studs r in place....do i needa remove the cams to put the nuts on the studs? because im not able to get them on

I don't know because I used ARP bolts.

Supramacist will know. If I had to guess I'd say no, the cams can stay in place, you are just going to have to use a little ingenuity to get them on, think: pen magnet...... those things are life savers.

If you put the studs in right, you can put an allen wrench on them and pull them 1 at a time. You have to thread the nuts to the studs and drop them throught the washers. Put the washers in place first the place the nut on the stud.

You need a 3/8 drive and a deep well 14mm. If you don't have washers get them.

You will have to rotate the cams to get some of them to drop.

oooo. ok man thnx a lot ill do that tommorow

Are you running a K&N FIPK cai???

If so can you tell me how you like it and what you noticed in changes in your car after the install???

yes i am running the k&n intake. it is amazing, id say one of the best. if nto the best. ur turbo breathes a lot better w it alos, i noticed a difference right away in sound and power. i love the sound of my turbo with the intake.


another question, is there any way to get new gaskets for the fuel injectors w.o buying new injectors..im talking about the black peice that sits on the side of the block, adn the o-rings. i baught a gasket set but it did not come with them

and also theres this THING on the passenger side of the block, its directly in back of the thermostat housing, its like a gear that sticks into the cam housing. does this have to be reset in any way? because i noticed its on a slide and can be adjusted up and down like the tps, so im just wondering if it needs to be set like the tps after

Oh MY god.....

First of all, yes you can buy new injector insulators (black rubber things that seal the injector to the cylinder head), grommets (the black rubber things that rest on the fuel rail) and the o-rings (the o-rings that seal the injector to the fuel rail) from the dealer, they are dealer only parts and are very cheap. You must replace the insulators and o-rings, the grommets don't seal anything so you don't have to replace them, I did because they were like $1 each.

Yep that gear thing that is on a "slide" is your Cam Position Sensor. It is the turbo's version of a distributor. Most new imports come with CPS's nowadays (turbo or non-turbo) so for an 87 to have one, it was state of the art back then. Anyways, again, the TSRM tells you how to install it correctly. I can break it down in a detailed post if the TSRM confuses you. You must replace the o-ring on the CPS, only $5 from the dealer, its a dealer only part.

As far as K&N being the best intake, that is incorrect. HKS makes a higher flowing air filter than a K&N, and doesn't use oil which can fuck up your MAF. I'm useing the Blitz SUS stainless steel intake, which is the best intake on the market for a turbo MK3 supra. It features a 200 micron stainless steel filter with a 150 micron snout. You wanna talk about loud? And supramacist has a non-turbo so any intake for a turbo will not fit on a non-turbo because they use different MAF's.

Ya what he said. Non turbo. He just posted before I did.

Is there a decent $200 route to take here besides aem or something?

Keyword= Can
Its usually people who dont know what the hell their doing, and soak their K&N air filter in oil.

Blitz still kicks the shit out of a K&N anyday of the week.

Ive been using K&N air filters for some time now and ive never had a problem with them. Just my .2 cents.

ok well ill be replacing the cusiosn for the injectors as soon as they come and the cps o ring tommorow...ive started puttin it back together already...cant wait to have this sucker up and running again.

ok well the supras back together.. i just have 1 question... on the throttle body...its facing the driver seat and its liek a little thing that connects to a vacuum line im guessing....where does this line come from and go to? cause i see the connector and no vaccum line. its on the back side of the throttle body facing the seat like sticking out of the t.b

and also, i have to put the passenger side timing gear on..how should i go about doing this..ive tried putting the timing belt on it and trying to pull it on but the belt restrics it. ive tried to move the pulley and was succesful but the belt just doesnt want to go on with the gear there

any1??????

ok i got the supra running and took it for a spin....but it wont rev past 2.1k rpm..it feels liek fuel cut..i dont know if its cause im out of gas that this is happening...i know of 2 possible things. my tps isnt calibrated, and theres a vaccuum leak on the side of my throttle body that is facing the driver...i see the connector but i dont know where to attach the other end of the hose to.

ive been searchin thru the tsrm for a vacuum diuagram but i have nothing

Picture would help a bit. If you have a n/a then there are like three that come off the throttle body two go to this vacuum valve thing and then one goes to the charcole canister via a VSV on the thermostat housing. But as for the turbo I am not sure I usually label everything when I take it off because it helps me locate where it goes back to.

yea me too..but its a vacuum hose...on a turbo. if you go to ur driver side fender, and look at the right side of the throttle body, facing the driver seat..its the only vacuum line sticking right out of the side.

and also um the fuel line closest to the driver seat, at the end of the fuel rail has this little cap on the top of it...i took the cap off and the screw thats in the came out ewith it...does that screw have to be screwed in at all?

k never mid, got the vacuum line problem done..but it still feels like once i hit 2.1k to 2.4k the car just like dies...then falls to about 1.3k and gets power again and dies once it hits 2.1k i cant even get out of 1st

but theres still a vacuum leak sumwhere..i start the car and the idle keeps going up and down it fluxuates about 1k rpm

GRRRRR. im about to throw this car out a window....when i start it the rmps jump about 1k and fluxuate liek that...then they continue to do it as i drive...amd omce i hit 2.1k the car dies until the rpms drop and it goes again till 2.1 rpm....and smoke is comming from my exhaust/turbo areas..and smells awkward...i dk if its cause i shimmed my wastegate a couple washers, but im taking them out tommorow and seeing if thats it.

when i put my throttle body on there was this thing that looked like it had a cotton ball at the end, it was a black tube..thing. was i supposed to attach it to anything? i mean i just left it like hanging when i attached my throttle body.


its the thing all the way at the bottom dangling down

That thing is like a vacuum filter. As for that screw that came out of the fuel pressure regulator or the thing at the end of the fuel rail. That screw is what releases the pressure at the fuel rail so if it is gone then you arent building up any fuel pressure. As for the vacuum lines on your turbo I have a 1JZ the vacuum routing is a little different. Just listen for a hissing around that area and that is were your leak is or spray brake cleaner around on your vacuum lines and if the idle gets better that line has a leak. As for the vacuum filter it doesnt connect to anything just hangs there. Lastly as for throwing it out the window the car weighs like 3400 pounds kinda hard to throw and push and stop.

That thing you show in that picture is called a Dashpot. Go look it up in the TSRM. Its there, you just have to look real hard. And yep, it just dangles there with that cotton shit hanging out of it, that shits stock.

Calibrate your TPS. That is why you can't rev higher than 2.1K. Why the hell did you even take your TPS out? Let me guess, to clean the throttle body? Yeah that was worthless and looks like you did more harm than good.

Calibrate your TPS. I can guarantee that is your problem.

And a MK3 supra weighs around 3675 lbs. More like 3700lbs if you have the spare tire.

ok well theres 1 suspected hose i needa replace, and ill calibrate the tps in auto...thank u very much all of u..ill let u know if it works later on today

ok i tightened the fpr screw, and i noticed that my fpr isnt holding pressure, its leaking a little gass out at the bottom...could this be the cause of the fuel cut?

i lied, its not the fpr, its the thing all the way at the opposite side of the fpr

That would be the fuel pulsation damper. Let me guess, you didn't replace the copper sealing washers?

Fuel is the worst fluid to leak on a car. Not only will it not run right, but you severely increase the risk of having the car burst into flames. Not good. Replace those sealing washers, that car is not road worthy at this point.

i know...ok well update on the fuel cut issue...my teacher seems to believe its my tps...we tried adjustign it but the numbers wuld never match up to wat they were uspposed ot be...he says its always getting current or sumthing liek that, even at idle so the car cant tell when im accelatating or sumthing liek that...so i needa order a new 1

i also hear it culd be a leak in the intake manifold??