BHG replacement, need pointers!

brandonsupra · 01-23-2007, 08:43 AM

My old thread didn't get much of a response, I'm hoping I can get some feedback here. I just found out I have a BHG today...it's pretty bad it looks like a steam factory pouring out of my hood. Anyways I have some questions that need addressing.

Firts of all, which brands are the best for metal head gaskets? Are there any other parts or things one should buy to make this BHG replacement the most efficient?

Secondly, my friend (who's a sort of back yard mechanic owns 2 mark II supras with the 5mge engine) is going to be doing this job for me. Is there any pointers or key things to note while doing this that would be different from installing a HG for a 5mge? He has replaced his head gaskets before, but never a 7mge or 7mgte even which is what I have. What should it be torqued to? any special sealants/head glues or whatever that work better than others? Any other tips are welcomed and appreciated!

Thanks for reading at least fellas, most especially thanks to anyone who can come up with a well described reply to this!

ddmcse · 01-23-2007, 02:15 PM

here is some information

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/S.../1636/bhg.html

IHateHacks · 01-23-2007, 02:54 PM

"Are there any other parts or things one should buy to make this BHG replacement the most efficient?"

Yes, ARP head bolts are a must. Do NOT reuse the head bolts. Or if you're going to be heavily boosting this motor (like 14 psi), ARP studs.

"What should it be torqued to?"

Factory specs are 58 ft/lbs. ARP bolts recommend 86 ft/lbs. I've heard of people using 90 ft/lbs. Personally, with ARP bolts, I used 70 ft/lbs. Make sure the block threads are perfectly clean and free of liquids. Corrosion will affect torque readings, and liquids don't compress. That is probably the most important thing to clean, with the block and head sealing surfaces a close second.

My only other tip is to have the head magnafluxed and planed at a machine shop.

Good luck, and I would use dealer gaskets only, autozone specials are cheap and made of inferior quality.

brandonsupra · 01-23-2007, 07:12 PM

Thanks guys, appreciate it. My good friend who I mentioned in the previous post came over and had a look today. I don't think I have a BHG anymore, you can see a stream of anti freeze pouring out, on the far back left side of the motor (opposite battery side) right above the transmission and exhaust etc. Well normally a BHG is internal, correct? you shouldn't see the stream of anti freeze? I think it's a blown heater core hose or something of those sorts. Either way I have a certified mechanic who's willing to replace the head gasket and every other gasket needed along the way for only 500$ (and that includes parts costs, that';s my grand total!) saving me about 1500$ from my other quote from a local shop. Even if it is the hose that's the problem I think I'm going to have all the gaskets replaced anyways just to be safe and worry free for a while.

brandonsupra · 01-23-2007, 07:29 PM

Also, what are good things that are fairly inexpensive that would be good to check/replace while the head is apart?

IHateHacks · 01-23-2007, 07:54 PM

To me it sounds like either the heater union sealing washers, the heater union to water by pass hose or the heater union to heater control valve hose is leaking. All of which, I hate to say, are only replaceable with the cylinder head off of the block. You could quite possibly get the clamp off of the heater union to heater control valve hose off (that long hose at the back top of the head that attaches to the valve on the firewall.) if you know someone with, what we in the automotive industry call, "Jap Hands". That other 90 degree hose (the heater union to water bypass pipe hose) is not replaceable with the head attached to the block.

"what are good things that are fairly inexpensive that would be good to check/replace while the head is apart"

Every hose, gasket and sealing washer that you can't get to unless the intake manifold or head is off.

And if this mechanic is truly "certified" he will know enough to have the head sent to a machine shop to be checked for warpage and cracks.

brandonsupra · 01-23-2007, 08:46 PM

Thanks man. Yeah he's going to be sending it off to get planed and everything good like that. Gonna check the pistons and cam shafts while we're down there as well. I'll just tell him my budget and ask him to replace everything you just said if he can. I know he's replacing every gasket, but I'll get him to do the rest too...even though he probably knows everything I wrote down to mention to him anyways.

Sorry I made it sound like my friend was going to be doing the work, which initially I thought he was...since I figured otherwise I'd be paying huge cash. Today I called my moms friend who works down at a local lube shop and asked if he knew anyone who could do a head gasket job for cheap. His co-worker said he would do it on his spare for at warehouse costs, and next to no labor costs. He's actually certified too, he's not my backyard mechanic friend just to clarify that.

01-23-2007, 08:43 AM	#1
brandonsupra Stock Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: BC Canada Posts: 26	BHG replacement, need pointers! My old thread didn't get much of a response, I'm hoping I can get some feedback here. I just found out I have a BHG today...it's pretty bad it looks like a steam factory pouring out of my hood. Anyways I have some questions that need addressing. Firts of all, which brands are the best for metal head gaskets? Are there any other parts or things one should buy to make this BHG replacement the most efficient? Secondly, my friend (who's a sort of back yard mechanic owns 2 mark II supras with the 5mge engine) is going to be doing this job for me. Is there any pointers or key things to note while doing this that would be different from installing a HG for a 5mge? He has replaced his head gaskets before, but never a 7mge or 7mgte even which is what I have. What should it be torqued to? any special sealants/head glues or whatever that work better than others? Any other tips are welcomed and appreciated! Thanks for reading at least fellas, most especially thanks to anyone who can come up with a well described reply to this!

01-23-2007, 02:15 PM	#2
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	here is some information http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/S.../1636/bhg.html __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS

01-23-2007, 08:46 PM	#7
brandonsupra Stock Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: BC Canada Posts: 26	Thanks man. Yeah he's going to be sending it off to get planed and everything good like that. Gonna check the pistons and cam shafts while we're down there as well. I'll just tell him my budget and ask him to replace everything you just said if he can. I know he's replacing every gasket, but I'll get him to do the rest too...even though he probably knows everything I wrote down to mention to him anyways. Sorry I made it sound like my friend was going to be doing the work, which initially I thought he was...since I figured otherwise I'd be paying huge cash. Today I called my moms friend who works down at a local lube shop and asked if he knew anyone who could do a head gasket job for cheap. His co-worker said he would do it on his spare for at warehouse costs, and next to no labor costs. He's actually certified too, he's not my backyard mechanic friend just to clarify that. Last edited by brandonsupra; 01-23-2007 at 09:11 PM.

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01-23-2007, 02:54 PM	#3
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	"Are there any other parts or things one should buy to make this BHG replacement the most efficient?" Yes, ARP head bolts are a must. Do NOT reuse the head bolts. Or if you're going to be heavily boosting this motor (like 14 psi), ARP studs. "What should it be torqued to?" Factory specs are 58 ft/lbs. ARP bolts recommend 86 ft/lbs. I've heard of people using 90 ft/lbs. Personally, with ARP bolts, I used 70 ft/lbs. Make sure the block threads are perfectly clean and free of liquids. Corrosion will affect torque readings, and liquids don't compress. That is probably the most important thing to clean, with the block and head sealing surfaces a close second. My only other tip is to have the head magnafluxed and planed at a machine shop. Good luck, and I would use dealer gaskets only, autozone specials are cheap and made of inferior quality.

01-23-2007, 07:12 PM	#4
brandonsupra Stock Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: BC Canada Posts: 26	Thanks guys, appreciate it. My good friend who I mentioned in the previous post came over and had a look today. I don't think I have a BHG anymore, you can see a stream of anti freeze pouring out, on the far back left side of the motor (opposite battery side) right above the transmission and exhaust etc. Well normally a BHG is internal, correct? you shouldn't see the stream of anti freeze? I think it's a blown heater core hose or something of those sorts. Either way I have a certified mechanic who's willing to replace the head gasket and every other gasket needed along the way for only 500$ (and that includes parts costs, that';s my grand total!) saving me about 1500$ from my other quote from a local shop. Even if it is the hose that's the problem I think I'm going to have all the gaskets replaced anyways just to be safe and worry free for a while.

01-23-2007, 07:29 PM	#5
brandonsupra Stock Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: BC Canada Posts: 26	Also, what are good things that are fairly inexpensive that would be good to check/replace while the head is apart?

01-23-2007, 07:54 PM	#6
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	To me it sounds like either the heater union sealing washers, the heater union to water by pass hose or the heater union to heater control valve hose is leaking. All of which, I hate to say, are only replaceable with the cylinder head off of the block. You could quite possibly get the clamp off of the heater union to heater control valve hose off (that long hose at the back top of the head that attaches to the valve on the firewall.) if you know someone with, what we in the automotive industry call, "Jap Hands". That other 90 degree hose (the heater union to water bypass pipe hose) is not replaceable with the head attached to the block. "what are good things that are fairly inexpensive that would be good to check/replace while the head is apart" Every hose, gasket and sealing washer that you can't get to unless the intake manifold or head is off. And if this mechanic is truly "certified" he will know enough to have the head sent to a machine shop to be checked for warpage and cracks.