Please Help
 

I have and 87 Supra 7MGTE and my check engine light is on. It seems like my engine is flooded because it takes a real long time to start. When it does start i am getting a real rich fuel mixture coming from the exhaust. Im not certain which sensor it is so I thought Id get some suggestions before spending $200+ on a MAF sensor. Please Help.

Go here: http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...read.php?t=323

It tells you how to check your codes, lets us know what you come up with.

I suggest that you have it diagnosed by a pro, experienced with computer/emissions diagnosis, before spending ANY $$$ on parts !!!!!

Ill Try And Check the codes but the thing is, I can't really take it to a shop because it runs real rough and I don't really want to pay to get it towed when its something I can do at home.

probly got a boost leak ;) (a big one lol)

code 34 will probly come up

do a diagnostic and let us know what codes ya get :)

It Keeps Saying Code 11 and there isnt a code for that on the website. Now What?

code 11 is when your ecu gets it power cut. Make sure it has power, and keep putting in/taking out the jumper and turning the key on. Itll eventually get rid of the code 11 and give you some real ones. I think the car might have to run first tho. So start it up. It does sound like either a boost/vaccum leak, Bad maf, or bad injectors thou. The other fuel injection sensors cant really affect it that much except for the maf, cam position sensor, or throttle position sensor. Itll even run with most of them unplugged. Goto the tsrm and look for trouble shooting with a volt meter and test all of them by measuring their resistance. Volt meters can be extremely usefull for FI vehicles.

alright now its really messed up. My check engine light wont even come on anymore and now the car wont even start. I know its not the maf sensor anymore because i checked the resistance and it is fine but first i need to figure out how to get my ECU working again.

momentary interruption of power supply to ecu

does not necessarily mean it's a power wire ;)

check all the grounds

there should be two on the intake manifold, undo them, clean them up reattach them, make sure the terminals aren't broken etc

ok so i found a few vaccuum hoses disconnected but now my car isnt getting any fuel to get it started. It will crank but wont start. My check engine light is still off like the thing wont even go on at all even in the on position so i think there may be something screwed with my ecu. Any suggestions before i start screwin around with my ecu.

check your gounds
this is why the car won't go!

the two earths on the intake manifold are the grounds for the ecu

check your grounds!

There is a way to test your ecu by measuring its resistance, I dont know what part it will check out tho. But generally if the resistance of any electrical component is different than factory, Its a good idea to replace it. Look in the tsrm. And yes, Def check all your grounds. Bad ground = Bad stuff.

It was a blown fuse so to my EFI but now that it is fixed my car starts right up but it is still having trouble running. I know there is something messed up with my TPS because it idles at 500 rpm but i am still getting a rich fuel mixture which leads me to believe my Mass air Meter is dead too. I checked the codes again and got 51 and 31 I need to know if there is anything i should do before buying a new TPS and MAF.

agreed been there done that, fixed broken ground and idled just right after

code 31

Air Flow Meter Signal

(7M-GE)
Open circuit in VC signal or short circuit between VS and E2 when idle contacts are closed.

(7M-GTE)
Open or short circuit in air flow meter signal.

Air flow meter circuit
Air flow meter
ECU

http://cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_038.html


code 51

Switch condition signal

No "IDL" signal, "NSW" signal or "A/C" signal to ECU, during diagnosis check.

Check to to make sure you were in Park or neutral when doing the diagnostic and also check to make sure a/c wasn't switched on when doing the diagnostic

try another air flow meter
and you haven't said if you have fixed your grounds

jus listen to the girl she knows what shes talking about

jus fix the ground

and if that doesnt work
consider a licensed professional

Well i would assume he now fixed the elctrical problem becasue the car starts, And is now trying to fix the bad running problem. But yes the ground wires are probably what caused the code 11 in the first place. I think it would be fine now that its giving him real codes.

Yes the grounds are good now im just gunna replace the MAf And TPS and see what happens.

just do the afm (not maf on ours)