look at what i got coming
 

got this and some 3' mandels and pipe coming next week to make my exhaust 3 inch from the turbo back ,like it says under my name... lol

any one use this full 3" t304 stainless downpipe? here are some piks, maybe now suprragirl can make it say 400hp under my name so i have a new goal to shoot for ... lol :bouncy:

sweet pics where did u get the full 3 inch i see 2.5 everywhere else. do u have a header, manfold with 3 inch exit too.

some guy on ebay is making them,, still using the stock manifold for now. here is another one for sale


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Supra...QQcmdZViewItem

I've been watching that item ever since it came out on eBay. Very nice constuction. I'm waiting to see how much money I have leftover from my topend rebuild. I want that thing, it's a good value.

if your still using the stock manifold, then you have accomplished nothing worth writing about by going 3". A 2.5" down pipe is better suited for the stock manifold. Its the manifold that has the most restriction on the exhaust side, not the down pipe.

the point of the 3 inch downpipe is to allow the waist gate air to mix more smoothly with the exhaust coming from the primary turbo outlet, it removes the massive restriction of the stock 90 elbow, And even if your right, its still worth writing about in my oppinion, that how we learn, have fun with your 2.5 inch dp. good day

who said anything about me running a 2.5 dp? i run a 3.5dp with a 2.5wg pipe, my motor puts out 732 hp at the crank. what i was trying to say was, obviously you didn't get it, if you really want to feel a difference in power, for the money, changing the exh manifold will reap more benefits than just changing the dp. going from 2.5 to 3.0dp adds only a few more hp. changing the manifold to a header type you will feel the difference. and feeling the increase with the money spent to feel it, is what its all about. you cant just replace one part and expect a big hp increase, all parts work together, and the manifold is the biggest restriction on the stock exhaust setup. the stock vacuum actuated wg does not open up fast enough to cause that much of a restriction. if you went 3.0 from the turbo back you gain what? 10whp and you still have the main restriction problem still there. me, instead of paying over $500 for 10whp, ynot pay $250 for 20+whp? thats just not my opinion, its from over 15 years of working at toyota dealerships, building lots of toyota motors for racing, not only for myself but for customers in my shop.

well good for you. :bow: . i am running the stock manifold but its not really stock, its been ported out bigtime.same with the head, im not running the stock actuator either, and my turbo is not stock, and who said i paid 500$ ?? sorry if i seem sharp but your first post pissed me off saying its pointless. we all start somewhere. go piss in some one elses cherrios...lol

lets add this up, how much did it cost to port out the manifold? probably not much, port matching doesn't cost much. how much for the actuator? add in the 3.0 dp i'd say your more than $500. you would feel more power with the stock actuator and a header style manifold for alot less money. what good is 14psi boost when you still have the lag provided by the stock manifold? there's no need to get pissed off, this is a forum, to exchange ideas and advice. even with my years of experience, i still learn something here from time to time. espeacially from supra_girl, her intake idea is fantastic, cant wait till she gets it done and posts some pics. I guess what im trying to say is, don't believe the hp increases these parts manufacturers post about their parts. They are very biased, theyr'e trying to sell parts. my advice is from years of experience and trial and error. ive broken alot of parts trying to find what works, and if i can tell someone how to get power without wasting money on needless parts, i will. sorry i pissed you off, i didn't mean to.

im not really pissed, now! i just didnt like when you said it was not even worth mentioning it here. if me spending coin on useless items helps someone else to save then its totally worth mentioning it whether im right or wrong.. and i did all the work myself. porting and polishing and so im only into it the cost of my time. as for the dual actuator it was 100 but allows me to adjust boost in the cab without a bleeder valve. yes you do make sense i do thank you for your info. i thought about getting a header, but ive heard that they crack to easy and that the gains where minimal without a larger downpipe. so like i said i got to start somewhere... what kind and where did you get yours? are you in the www.7mpower.com top 10? you should be with that hp