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11-18-2014, 04:30 AM
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#1 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 1,034
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I'm interested to know if any other cars use this valve or a compatible one too, as the one on my car no longer opens...
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1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels |
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11-18-2014, 07:18 PM
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#2 |
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3" Exhaust
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 178
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Your valve doesn't open? That should cause the hoses to build up pressure and start to leak coolant and overheat the car?! that is crazy, b/c that's exactly what happen to mine (as far as I know) anyway. Coolant would come out the top and sometimes the bottom hose.
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Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new. |
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11-19-2014, 02:03 PM
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#3 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 1,034
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Not exactly; my valve doesn't open, so coolant doesn't go through the heater core and I have no heater. My car does not have any overheating problems or leaks.
As I said earlier, the system is designed to work just fine with the valve closed. In a properly functioning cooling system a closed or clogged heater control valve will not cause an overheating issue. This is because the coolant does not have to travel through the valve to circulate throughout the engine, it has a path to bypass it. When you're climate control is set to the coldest temperature, that valve is supposed to be closed. If closing the valve increased pressure and caused leaks, then every Supra would overheat with the AC on. Hopefully replacing the valve on your car fixes your problem.
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1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels |
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11-19-2014, 07:38 PM
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#4 |
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3" Exhaust
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 178
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Well do you have any idea on why there was too much pressure on the two coolant hoses that pass through the valve that made it leak?
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Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new. |
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11-19-2014, 08:10 PM
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#5 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 1,034
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My guess is possibly some sort of blockage, maybe in the pipe that runs down the exhaust side of the engine, that's forcing the coolant to have to run through the core
__________________
1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels |
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12-10-2014, 01:36 AM
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#6 |
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3" Exhaust
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 178
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I don't know if this is right or not but, I don't think the coolant was even making it to the heater core b/c it was building up pressure on both hoses and leaking out of both of them (one hose at a time mind you). The valve thing would work for a while then it would come out the bottom hose, I would fix it, then it would start coming out the top or other hose on top?!.....
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Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new. |
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