waterworks problem
 

Hi people, I'm very new to this so I'm feeling my way around. I have an annoying problem with my 1989 non turbo supra, the head gasket has just been replaced and the water is no longer under pressure and all is well now, however, I have bled/purged the air out, even jacked the front of the car up high to get the rad to be the highest point so think the air is out but I'm getting lots of sloshing coming from the passenger glove area which I have exposed, there is no leaking, just lots of rushing water on accelleration, what do I do now? bearing in mind I'm not mechanically minded, just able to do stuff if it's explained simply, thanks

Is the carpet wet? Did you have the heater running when bleeding? Fill the reservoir COMPLETELY for the next few drives too.

Waterworks problem
 

Hi, thanks for the reply, as I said, there is no water leaking anywhere, yes the engine and heater was running when we bled the air out but by the sound of the sloshing going on in the passenger footwell, there is loads of air still to come out but I don't know what to do next to get it out, as I said, we've had the car tipped up so the rad was the highest point but the air seems to remain in the big white tank in the passenger footwell,

Test the radiator cap to make sure it's holding pressure, pressure test the cooling system. It's not uncommon to have a coolant leak which only leaks at speed and doesn't leave pools behind after you stop the car. Yes, I saw that you lifted the car... I've never had to go through the elaborate bleeding techinques recommended by so many owners and I've worked on a lot of MKIIIs. Fill the coolant system, run the engine with the heat on for a minute, top off the coolant in the radiator and then just keep the reservoir completely full for a couple days. Works for me every time unless there's a leak which has been missed or the HG isn't sealed and compression gasses are entering the system and pushing coolant out of the coolant circuit. It's not something Toyota just assumes all techs know either, you should look at the official procedure for the MR-2s. I'm told that clipping off the tiny brass stopper on the thermostat (just a little rod in the tiny hole in the flange of the thermostat) can expedite the process I outlined with no ill effect.

Yes, removing the "jiggle pin" from the thermostat has been known to help with burping, but if you don't want to do this then just ensuring it was fitted uppermost in the first place is worthwhile, as it's purpose is to allow air locks to pass the closed 'stat (not as a "bypass" for coolant to flow as some people think)

I had no trouble burping mine once the head gasket was replaced & the cracked heater matrix done away with but it was a pig before that unsurprisingly. What you could try though if you do have trouble is to push a close fitting piece of rubber hose into the filler hole and add coolant through that with a funnel attached high up to the bonnet/hood & then loosen the top heater hose and let the air come out from there. (That worked for me when I was faffing around hoping the HG wasn't duff when I first got mine, until I ran the engine again & pumped more air in!)