More before pics for reference later
 

More before shots

Best Trick in the Book
 

If you want to remember where all of your screws go, this tip in my opinion is priceless. Somewhere along my projects I learned to take a piece of cardboard, and do this....Might be over the top, but I can pretty much assure you I wont get stuck bolting it all back together.

Update
 

Sorry for the long delay between posts, my car died, my computer died, and my dryer died all in the same month lol. So I am reporting in via iPad. I did take tons of pictures and notes so I will be putting up a how to once the computer issue is solved.

So...I got the car all back together tonight, filled with oil and coolant, cranked for 10 seconds without spark, added spark and cranked for the first time. After some sputter and coughing it did fire up, but it won't stay running unless I press on the gas. When I do hold the gas it does run but not well.

I checked the timing via pulling the cover and ensuring the pulley marks lined up while the crank is at 0 degrees tdc. Everything lined up great. I looked into the oil cap hole and see the cam lobe pointing up. I even pulled the number one plug and put my long ratchet extension down the hole to ensure the cylinder was indeed at the top of its stroke. It was. The CAS was dead center, I was waiting for the car to idle before I made any adjustments to it...but I have yet to get idle.

I also double and triple checked my vacuum lines against the diagram on Cygnus site.

What gives? Any ideas?

Have someone hold the throttle and keep the RPM around 800. Set the diagnostic jumper and set the ignition advance. This isn't the final time you'll set it, you'll want to set it once everything is sound but you can set it this way to get it close.

You may also want to try jumping FP and B+ in the diagnostic box to get the fuel pump running in order to really flush any air out and prime the fuel system. The key will need to be in the "ON" position along with setting the jumper in order for the pump to run without the engine running. To clarify: Set jumper FP and B+, turn ignition to "ON" position and wait a minute or two.

I'll give that a shot, I think I am going to pull the cam position sensor out and refit just for the hell of it. Guess we will see. I will repost with status once complete.

you can also get some masking tape and label the wires with their respective places, a lil time consuming but its a good practice in patience and thoroughness.

gl man, youll love it when its rolling again. id go with the head studs as well over the arp bolts, worth the extra bux and more insurance.