Yet Another Blown Head Gasket
 

Hey guys, bad news. Just blew my bone stock 87 turbo supra head gasket on the way home from work yesterday. The car gave me the classic signs. It began by spitting coolant out of the overflow bottle after long drives, eventually my temp guage started acting up, and finally when it blew when I was driving it down the road. (It overheated, blew white smoke out the exhaust, and blew coolant all over the road where I pulled over). Doing my research now and getting a list of everything I need to tackle this job on my own. I am not a mechanic, just a DIY'er who has learned everything I know by reading the manuals/forums/and by getting my hands dirty. I know my way around cars enough to try and tackle this job on my own. It will be my first head gasket job. If I need them, I have friends who are certified mechanics who will be able to bail me out/loan tools and assistance if I get into a bind. So lets cut to the chase.

I have a bone stock 7m-gte. I plan on replacing all gaskets and seals with OEM toyota parts and getting ARP head bolts to hold it all together. I have no plans for high boost or upgrades with this car. While in there I am going to do a timing belt job as well. I plan on replacing the belt, tensioners, and possibly water pump after a visual inspection. I have a haynes manual, links to the online TSRM manual, and you guys to help guide me throughout. I am not a cheapo/hack/half ass-er etc..While I am in there I will replace any and all things necessary to get this car back up to 100% factory or better. All tips tricks and pointers are welcome. I have done tons of searching and will be doing plenty more as I go. I have a second car, so this job will be done slowly and correctly. I will be taking pics and posting as I go. I will remove the head and take it too a machine shop for milling, cleaning, and I am contemplating a valve job as well since it will be out of the car(thoughts?).

First things first, I need a head gasket kit. I want an oem toyota
Head Gasket Kit: 04112-42023. Can anyone please recommend someone I should purchase this from? Preferrably someone who will give me a good deal and who supports this forum. I want to order this immediately. Also, I need recommendations on a timing belt kit as well(should I just go with Toyota again)?

Second: if anyone recommends any particular order of stripping this engine down I am all ears. I just pulled my intake side of the engine apart a few weeks ago to pull my starter and replace the contacts inside it. (I had the classic turn the key and hear a click syndrome, once the contacts were replaced...problem solved. 100% worth the 30 bucks or so for the kit online, just took lots of labor to get down in there). So I am pretty familiar with breaking down that side of the engine for sure.

Third: I have made a serious effort to get this car all tuned up prior to this event. Here is a list of things I have done to the car so everyone is up to speed: Air filter, spark plugs(Iridium NGK), spark plug wires(NGK), valve cover gaskets, fuel filter, thermostat, radiator cap, Coolant temperature sensor, and coolant temperature switch have all been replaced since last December(2011). I also bought a silicone hose kit off from ebay(26 hose kit, $279.00, Samco I believe) to replace all of my worn, cracked, and dry hoses throughout the engine. Even off ebay, they are leap years better than my stock hoses were.

Thats enough for now. After some input, I am ordering my parts on Monday. Thanks in advance, hope you enjoy this post as we go and it helps others in the future. I know I lean on these forums all of the time. :D

Kris

i have yet to pull a fully rebuild my gte but from reading around i found that if your pulling it to make wireing easier you can disconect the harness from the computer and pull that throught the fire wall and this in turn makes it so u dont have to disconect mark and reconect wires later. maby also a good time to put in a new clutch( while your there)

theres my 2 cents

I just pulled my motor about a week ago for some bottom end upgrades and this is how I went about it:
Dropped the Glove box and d/c'ed the ECU and pulled the harness through the firewall, it may take a little work. There are still a few connections to unhook however.
Then pulled the radiator, PS pump, A/C, and d/c'ed the exhaust and pulled it out of the way.
Removed the intake to the round intake thingy( called Air Intake or something) to access the starter and then removed it.
Took out the bellhousing and motor mount bolts.
Loosened the fork in the transmission by removing slave cylinder.
Double checked to see if any other thing (hoses and such) was still connected and d/c'ed it.
Then pulled that baby out and hung it on a stand.

I'm sure I forgot some stuff but, this was just off the top of my head. As far as head removal, the Haynes manual is pretty much spot on. Hardest part will be placing the head back on since its a heavy s.o.b. Get another person to help with that one. Before installing the head, make sure to tap out your head bolts holes and try to make sure the block and head surfaces are to spec. If not, pull the engine and have a shop do it.
Hope this helps

Parts are in!!!
 

Ok guys, parts are in. I plan on stating the teardown this Saturday after I get off from work around 4:00pm. Before/During/and After pictures coming soon. I will put up a pic of the new goodies too.

Here's the breakdown of what I ordered.

Toyota Head Gasket Kit: Part Number: (04112-42023)
Contains all the gaskets and seals you will need from the head gasket up.
Cost: $290.62 from toyotapartszone.com

Toyota Water Pump Assembly: (16100-49755)
Contains water pump and WP gasket
Cost: $79.06 from toyotapartszone.com

Gates Timing Belt Kit: (TCK237)
Contains timing belt and tensioner(idler pulley), 2 Camshaft Seals, and a crankshaft seal. It does not contain a new spring for the tensioner.
Cost: $59.79 from THMotorsports

Toyota Tensioner Spring: (90507-18008)
Cost: $5.61 from toyotapartszone.com

ARP Head Bolt Kit: (ARP-203-3902)
Cost: $106.58 from Summit Racing

ARP Assembly Lubricant: (ARP-100-9909)
For 7 bucks, why skimp here if you are going this far???
Cost: $7.02 from Summit Racing

So far I am all in for about $620 w/ shipping to give you guys an idea of what the total head gasket/timing belt and waterpump replacement procedure will cost you. Keep in mind I still am going to have the head checked, milled, etc. I can't imagine this whole project coming in any less than $1000. Guess we will see.

More to come soon. :)

Kris

Have you thought about changing the starter while its exposed?
Never would hurt especially if it's the stock one.

Starter Replacement
 

I just rebuilt it, replaced all the copper contacts inside. It turns over/starts 100% every turn of the key. Before I had the turn and click problem. This fixed it instantly. I never messed with adding in a relay. I will probably leave it until it breaks, I now know how to get to it should I need to. Forget laying under the car and loosening those bolts, I just pulled the air intake manifold and reached right in and loosened it up. I tried laying under the car and getting to it, after almost 2 hours of trying different combinations of extensions, ratchets, swivel heads...you name it. I threw in the towel and took the manifold off.

just take your time and remember where everything goes. it will save you time when putting it all back together.

if he just replaced the contacts in his starter its fine and there is no point wasting money on something that works fine, and is easy to take off. you can remove the starter without removing anything else.

this is the tsrm http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ection=EM&P=32 read it if you get stuck on anything. and don't be afraid to ask any questions on the forum good luck!

Goodies purchased so far
 

Toyota Gasket Kit
ARP Bolt Kit and Lubricant
Gates Timing Belt Kit
Timing belt tensioner spring
Water pump and water pump gasket

Update
 

Decided after starting my tear down that I am going to replace my accessory belts as well. They basically looked like crap, never really looked at them closely before but they are all cracked and dried up. Also, I am going to go ahead and replace my radiator too. It seems to have a be leaking after I overheated, and I am not sure how old it is or how good it is flowing.

More to come...

Take lots of pictures
 

In order to make sure I remember how all these hoses and wiring goes back together I am taking pictures of everything I do along the way. Here are some before pics that should come in handy later.

More before pics for reference later
 

More before shots

Best Trick in the Book
 

If you want to remember where all of your screws go, this tip in my opinion is priceless. Somewhere along my projects I learned to take a piece of cardboard, and do this....Might be over the top, but I can pretty much assure you I wont get stuck bolting it all back together.

Update
 

Sorry for the long delay between posts, my car died, my computer died, and my dryer died all in the same month lol. So I am reporting in via iPad. I did take tons of pictures and notes so I will be putting up a how to once the computer issue is solved.

So...I got the car all back together tonight, filled with oil and coolant, cranked for 10 seconds without spark, added spark and cranked for the first time. After some sputter and coughing it did fire up, but it won't stay running unless I press on the gas. When I do hold the gas it does run but not well.

I checked the timing via pulling the cover and ensuring the pulley marks lined up while the crank is at 0 degrees tdc. Everything lined up great. I looked into the oil cap hole and see the cam lobe pointing up. I even pulled the number one plug and put my long ratchet extension down the hole to ensure the cylinder was indeed at the top of its stroke. It was. The CAS was dead center, I was waiting for the car to idle before I made any adjustments to it...but I have yet to get idle.

I also double and triple checked my vacuum lines against the diagram on Cygnus site.

What gives? Any ideas?

Have someone hold the throttle and keep the RPM around 800. Set the diagnostic jumper and set the ignition advance. This isn't the final time you'll set it, you'll want to set it once everything is sound but you can set it this way to get it close.

You may also want to try jumping FP and B+ in the diagnostic box to get the fuel pump running in order to really flush any air out and prime the fuel system. The key will need to be in the "ON" position along with setting the jumper in order for the pump to run without the engine running. To clarify: Set jumper FP and B+, turn ignition to "ON" position and wait a minute or two.

I'll give that a shot, I think I am going to pull the cam position sensor out and refit just for the hell of it. Guess we will see. I will repost with status once complete.

you can also get some masking tape and label the wires with their respective places, a lil time consuming but its a good practice in patience and thoroughness.

gl man, youll love it when its rolling again. id go with the head studs as well over the arp bolts, worth the extra bux and more insurance.