HG Job
 

Hey guys,

Finally, after two long years, I've got the time and motivation to rip the head off and fix this damn BHG. Break down is going smoothly (cept the turbo elbow bolts and nuts rusted damn good to the downpipe) and I will probably be in need of help/advice in the coming week(s) with more important issues but for now I just wanted to throw a quick question that's been bugging me since I started. Well, ever since I drained the oil back when and pulled the valve covers a couple days ago I've been admiring all the Yoo-Hoo chocolate milk this BHG has produced...Now, whats been bothering me is how do I / how have y'all cleaned the remainder of that milky crap from the crankcase? I don't want to deal with dropping the oil pan mind you. What have the rest of y'all done about this? Just build it back up, get it running, and change the oil like 2-3 times in a 4 day period?

Even though It's been parked since the white smoke, I want to be sure that I have done all I can to achieve the least amount of damage to the bearings in the crankcase. Any advice or personal experiences would be much appreciated, thanks y'all.

The bearing are undergoing more damage right now from sitting in the watery sludge than they will once it's replaced with 99% fresh oil. The contaminates remaining after you fill, run for 30 minutes will quickly evaporate and get pulled out via the PCV system. Of course you will be changing the oil after the first 30 minutes of running or so as well which will remove any other contaminates you need to be concerned with (except for heavy particulate from scrapers, sand paper, lapping compound, etc.).

Thanks for the info cre.

Got the head off today, #10 and #14 head bolt stripped out and took forever to loosen, hex head bolts...never again...They were pretty seized up so I wasn't surprised they stripped, actually so f'in seized up had this happened:

Attachment 4577

Guy at Sears: "I've never seen a hex bit break clean in half like that"
Me: "You're welcome..."

Anyways here's the problem cylinder:

Attachment 4578

#6 on exhaust side and #5 was swollen but didn't blow. Ideas about why it happened? Running really rich? That black in the center is the only buildup on that cylinder, otherwise the rest is spotless. #1 is black as night which I'm assuming is "normal" buildup and brought me to the conclusion that #6 was running really rich.

He's obviously never worked the returns desk...

yea mastercraft will do that. lol. but at least they have the lifetime warrenty

Okay, question. Took head to shop and had to have all valves adjusted. When I picked it up everything was together and he explained to me how to install new cam seals since I didn't give him any (wasn't expecting valve job). He told me to simply push on new seals. In the TSRM it says install new seals while cams are out, temp install bearing caps with seal packing under #1 cap (Whats the name of the seal packing y'all use and where to buy?), tap in cam seal, then torque down all bearing cap bolts. Should I just push on new cam seals like machinist said or do what TSRM says and take apart cams to install new seals?

It was almost $500 job so I don't want to take apart cams and screw something up if I don't have to. (first timer so correct me If I'm wrong and taking out cams won't mess with valve adjustment)

Thanks!

Just loosen the #1 caps enough to take the torque off and use a 2" socket (I think it's about 2", a shot glass or a small juice glass will probably work too) to press the seal in evenly and straight. Then torque, apply RTV where specified and close it all up.