Lexus afm
 

Has anyone installed the Lexus afm and custom air screw on the 7mgte? I am wondering how much the air screw needs to be screwed in? How much of the gap should there be? I have been running this mod for a few years now with no problems. This year I did a tune up and now I have boost cut. I lowered the boost and it is still happening, but only on wide open throttle. I am running stock injector and stock turbo, and thought maybe it's running too lean, so I screwed in air screw in all the way but isn't fix the problem. Now my check engine light comes on, but only at an idle. It goes away after the rpms pick up. Did I screw it in too much? Is it too rich now??? I read that with the Lexus afm you need to get the longer air screw and larger injectors. Can anyone offer me some insight?

It needs to be tuned with a wideband. I recommend against it as your sole tuning option. Ditch it, get a real fuel controller and get it properly tuned.

You can NOT use the Lex AFM housing with stock injectors. See the FAQ about it please: http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...lexus-afm.html

So if I get a wideband or some other means to tuning, do I still need to get 550 injectors. Or can the stock ones? Will they allow enough fuel in?

You still need some means of supplying 25% MORE fuel. I thought I covered that in that FAQ thread... I guess I'll have to go back over it.

ok. *cracks fingers*
Basically..
you're talking about two different beasts.. piggy back and stand alone.
stand alone = complete hardware upgrades like the lex honeycomb housing and injectors.. piggyback would be electronic tuning such as installing the honeycomb then adjusting using a wideband and a safc or something else.

adjusting that screw is not a method of fine tuning.. saying your checking your afr by how your engine responses and if you have a check engine light. Could possible be causing untold damage to your engine. My suggestion is to STOP. Do it right or your looking at an expensive repair. like a new engine due to detonation. These are not opinions..

I have only started the engine to see if it has gotten any better. Other than that, it's been sitting in the driveway. I have a shitty auto meter air/fuel gauge and it says I'm in the green. I'm gonna get the 550's and a piggy back system and scrap the a/f gauge and get a wideband. Just wondering if there is a preferred piggy back to use, or are they all pretty much the same?

wide band is the way to go.. couple different brands on the market.
aem ugo wideband is my preferred. but lc1 makes nice products.
as for your afr tuning.. safc neo I have an apexi safc 1 or 2 idk. ill sell it to you for like 150

K guys thanks for all the info. Seem like I got all the parts I need thanks fr the offer tho. I'm sure there are some base settings kicking around somewhere on here for the safc 1. I think that's the only thing left I need. Again, thanks for ur help fellas!! I appreciate it

Narrowband meters (the kind with just red, yellow and green LEDs and just connect to the MKIII's factory sensor) are about as worthless of a device as you can get. Narrowband sensors are purely an emissions control device and ONLY provide the ECU with a YES/NO signal... Yes the mixture is 14.7 or No, it's not (it actually says one of three thrings: rich, 14.7, lean but doesn't say how rich or lean). If you're runing a narrowband meter, toss it... unless you just like the light show. Get an Innovate Motorsports LC-1 or AEM UEGO installed.

As for copying someone else's setting.... forget it. Not when tuning and not when you've already altered things from stock. The whole point of the Lex AFM mod (which I mentioned in the FAQ article) is that for the most part it can be dropped right in (injectors and meter) and run. Tuning there after needs to be done to smooth out rough spots and ensure there are no lean spots and is SPECIFIC to YOUR car.

Ya I've junked that narrow band meter and gt an aem one. As or the afc. Don't I need a "base" setting when I first install new injectors and afc?