Fel-Pro at least used to offer a full kit. They still sell everything but it's separated into an upper kit and a lower kit. As much as I hear this I really wish I hadn't given away the Toyota kits I had.... Could've made my money back selling the gaskets individually. :P

Do NOT use a gasket on the oil pan!!! It WILL leak!

yes i put the part about the oil pan, head, and first #1 cam plate in my notes. ok. so i should just buy an upper and lower felpro set ur saying?

edit: not the whole head obviously. just the part u told me too lol

lol if that were the case a HG would only be 5 bucks:grinking:

haha no kidding right. Question.... when i took my head in to get shaved the first time he took off 11/1000 of an inch. I planned on putting a metal head gasket on since i can get the blocked decked now. If i take my head in to get machined again will they be able to take more off? Im just wondering how much would be allowed to get taken off the head until it....idk. no good i guess.

Ideally, you want to remove as little as possible so you don't significantly alter the geometry of the chamber. A thicker HG can make up for a significant amount of removed material but you're still limited due to certain conditions such as the cutting down the quench area or cutting a block to the point that the piston crown meets or passes the allowable height with relation to the block deck. Your machinist should help you determine how to get the head in the proper shape (if possible). There is the possibility that it could be lapped by yourself with a honing plate and diamond lapping compound and then you could have them measure the straightness for you... It'll take a while but it'll get it as smooth as it much be for a MHG with the minimal removal of material. A lapping plate will run you around $100 and $20 for the paste... it's a good deal of work too, so if they can actually machine it it may be worthwhile. When you get the block (and possibly head) cut the must be as smooth as glass too. Where a composite HG needs the texture it's a killer for a MHG.

Yes i know i should ask what the RA and that it should be around 15 i think. Ill have to talk over everything with the machinist. Im not taking my stuff to the same guy this time. Im going to talk to 3 other machinists in my area.

OK so I found some gasket sets on EBay that appear to be the full deal. I wont be using the head gasket from any of these or the oil pan gasket. If someone could tell me if its a good price and also if it seems to be good quality I would probably do very nice things for you. :)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190477440358...ht_1732wt_1037

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120864520718...84.m1438.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310383828081...#ht_2648wt_905

Leaning more towards the first but am still in need of guidence

Edit: I also have a sand blasting booth available to me and was wondering if its on to blast the bulky resistors that are bolted down into either side of the engine bay.

Looks like the first one also includes the turbo elbow and downpipe gaskets. The second includes piston rings and bearings (NPR is a decent make... OEM quality). The third lacks the turbo gaskets and rings and bearings. This is all simple enough though. I'd lean toward the first kit unless you've had a chance to inspect and measure the crank and cylinder bores... stock #2 bearings and stock rings may not even work for you after the machine shop cleans everything up. I'm only basing this judgment on what parts appear to be included, there's really nothing to tell us about whether the oil seals and valve stem seals are made with quality materials.

ok i will go with the first. I plan on having a friend help me hone the cylinders so im still doing research on the rings yet. after honeing is there a way to tell what size to get or will i have to get a micrometer? and if so is there a kit somewhere that has all those mini measuring tools?

Honing isn't going to affect size significantly. Absolutely get the cylinders measure before reassembling the engine!!!!! If a cylinder is out of round and you replace the rings which have worn into the appropriate shape you will most likely have massive amounts of blow-by and probably burn a lot of oil.... and it won't wear in.

Get them measured by a shop where they can measure the entire bore. Just measuring the top of the bore isn't going to tell you anything. A cylinder can warp so that a cross section looks like this |(, this () or this )(.