Engine pulling help needed
 

Ok so me and a friend are trying to get my 7mgte out of my 88 supra and we just can seem to do it. I know this subject has been beat to death but nothing seems to be working. I read that we should remove the clutch fork but i honestly dont understand how that would help in any way. Pulling the trans with the motor is not an option. please help.

how is pulling pulling trans. and engine not an option??:umno: its a major pain in the ass to pull the motor on its own, especially those two trans bolts behind the head.

all you need to do to take your trans with you is, remove shifter, remove drive shaft, unbolt trans mount, disconnect tach cable and possible sensor...

as for taking the engine on its own, im not sure what your asking?? disconnect everything... and pull it out... if its not coming out, you havnt done everything yet...:dunno:

Cause the picker i have is only able to lift half a ton. My resources are limited. i have to extend the arm all the way to get over the engine so thats why taking the trans with ISNT an option. Everything looks disconnected cause its about maybe 1/2 inch to an inch away from the trans. I read two or three forums that say to remove the clutch fork but i dont understand how that would even help. I tried getting the e clip off but its such a pita.

And if your talking about any of the 6 or 8 bolts that actually connect the bell housing tot he engine were easy. the ones behind the head took maybe 5 mines for the both of them

take off your hood, makes it easier. and your engine with trans should weigh in under 500 lbs that is under a 1/4 ton...

hoods the first thing i took off. And i already told u its not an option. i dont have a very good jack and im using on of my jack stands on my other car. Do u have any info on the clutch fork? cause if not then ur not really helping if your going to tell me over and over to just pull the trans. Im pulling the engine to grind the rust off and paint it. The trans is just going to get in the way.

look in the tsrm.
use the search feature to find the links...
i am not certain about the 7mgte turbo trans. but on the w58 the fork is attached to the bellhousing and does not need to be removed.

I don't remember the specifics but I believe that the fork has to be removed if it's GTE but not for the GE... pull type vs push type. Last time I tried to pull just the engine I wasted more time than I could believe.... and reinstalling was even worse.

Compare and it may make some sense:
GE
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=3101&P=1
GTE
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=3101&P=2

Damn. Cre do u remember how u managed to remove that put that was held in place by that "e" clip? The clip was easy as hell to remove once i had my head at the right angle and wasnt straining my neck so damn bad. lol. But i sprayed penetrating oil on the pin and it still wont budge. Im debating weather i should slide the engine back in a little bit to maybe relieve some pressure on the fork? idk. Im so frustrated. I would take the trans out too but im working in my dads garage and i am limited on room. if it were summer i would just work in the driveway.

You most definitely need to move the engine back against the transmission...

This should not be as difficult as you're making it... You've gotta learn somehow but generally people suggesting you learn from their mistakes are suggesting it because, well, they've already made the same mistake.

I've worked in small garages before. Roll the car back a couple feet, pull engine and tranny in all of 30 minutes, lower engine and tranny so that tranny's resting on a tire or rolling stand, detach engine from tranny, put engine on engine stand, move hoist and tranny out of the garage, roll car back in in time for lunch.

Anyway, yes, move the engine back, pull the fork, slide the engine forward as straight as possible while the transmission is still attached; The input shaft is pretty beefy but it's always best to proceed with caution. Absolutely disconnect the driveshaft.

why do i need to disconnect the drive shaft?

I don't think you're going to be able to tip the engine enough to clear the oil pan otherwise. If you force it you may damage the input shaft, bearing or oil seal; output shaft, bearing or oil seal; or the drive shaft or carrier bearing. I could be wrong though... If you find otherwise let us know.

Well i finally got the engine out 2 days ago and been breaking it down. After that damn clutch for was off i could tell right away that the problem was indeed that fork. As far as bending anything it doesnt appear that i did. Is there anyway to check that without actually putting it back in? Oh and btw I will be posting a picture of that fork and also what its around. It will be clear to anyone pulling the engine why u would need to pull that for BEFORE DOING ANYTHING.

Also I need all new gaskets since almost half of them are 24 years old :) Do u think this would be a good set? not concerned about the head gasket for this since im hopefully getting a metal one. http://www.streetimports.com/product_details.asp?id=710
Also i cant tell if this comes with an oil pan gasket? basically i need every single gasket for this engine and im not sure how many there really are.

The oil pan isn't supposed to be installed with a gasket and I can assure you with great confidence that it is MUCH more likely to leak if you use one (such as the one which Fel-Pro includes). Use Toyota FIPG as directed in the TSRM, Honda's FIPG is quite good too or "Right Stuff" (the kind in a compressed can)... You'll also be using this on the #1 cam caps and at the union of the head and lower rear timing belt cover (DO NOT FORGET TO APPLY FIPG HERE!!!).

alright ill keep that in mind. Also what about seeing if anything got bent in the removal process?

Put it on a straight edge on lay it on a piece of glass to see how flat it is and hopefully someone will do the same with a known good one for you. I don't have one on hand nor do I have a MKIII here which I could pull one out of at the moment.

well i dont think i need to worry about it. It came off pretty smooth after that fork was off.

can someone point me in the right direction for a complete gasket set? I need gaskets for everything. i mean everything. haha. i see some kits but idk if everything is included and what not.

toyota has the best quality i would hope.
felpro makes a good set.
ebay you can find lots of cheap sets but quality is questionable.

All the felpro sets i looked at dont include ALL of the gaskets. I need one for my rear timing belt cover as well which i didnt see included

felpro does not make a full gasket set.
seeing as there is only a few gaskets on the block just buy them seperate (front and rear crank seals) felpro should have another set for in between and behind the timing case/cover. that should cover all of them...

Fel-Pro at least used to offer a full kit. They still sell everything but it's separated into an upper kit and a lower kit. As much as I hear this I really wish I hadn't given away the Toyota kits I had.... Could've made my money back selling the gaskets individually. :P

Do NOT use a gasket on the oil pan!!! It WILL leak!

yes i put the part about the oil pan, head, and first #1 cam plate in my notes. ok. so i should just buy an upper and lower felpro set ur saying?

edit: not the whole head obviously. just the part u told me too lol

lol if that were the case a HG would only be 5 bucks:grinking:

haha no kidding right. Question.... when i took my head in to get shaved the first time he took off 11/1000 of an inch. I planned on putting a metal head gasket on since i can get the blocked decked now. If i take my head in to get machined again will they be able to take more off? Im just wondering how much would be allowed to get taken off the head until it....idk. no good i guess.

Ideally, you want to remove as little as possible so you don't significantly alter the geometry of the chamber. A thicker HG can make up for a significant amount of removed material but you're still limited due to certain conditions such as the cutting down the quench area or cutting a block to the point that the piston crown meets or passes the allowable height with relation to the block deck. Your machinist should help you determine how to get the head in the proper shape (if possible). There is the possibility that it could be lapped by yourself with a honing plate and diamond lapping compound and then you could have them measure the straightness for you... It'll take a while but it'll get it as smooth as it much be for a MHG with the minimal removal of material. A lapping plate will run you around $100 and $20 for the paste... it's a good deal of work too, so if they can actually machine it it may be worthwhile. When you get the block (and possibly head) cut the must be as smooth as glass too. Where a composite HG needs the texture it's a killer for a MHG.

Yes i know i should ask what the RA and that it should be around 15 i think. Ill have to talk over everything with the machinist. Im not taking my stuff to the same guy this time. Im going to talk to 3 other machinists in my area.

OK so I found some gasket sets on EBay that appear to be the full deal. I wont be using the head gasket from any of these or the oil pan gasket. If someone could tell me if its a good price and also if it seems to be good quality I would probably do very nice things for you. :)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190477440358...ht_1732wt_1037

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120864520718...84.m1438.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310383828081...#ht_2648wt_905

Leaning more towards the first but am still in need of guidence

Edit: I also have a sand blasting booth available to me and was wondering if its on to blast the bulky resistors that are bolted down into either side of the engine bay.

Looks like the first one also includes the turbo elbow and downpipe gaskets. The second includes piston rings and bearings (NPR is a decent make... OEM quality). The third lacks the turbo gaskets and rings and bearings. This is all simple enough though. I'd lean toward the first kit unless you've had a chance to inspect and measure the crank and cylinder bores... stock #2 bearings and stock rings may not even work for you after the machine shop cleans everything up. I'm only basing this judgment on what parts appear to be included, there's really nothing to tell us about whether the oil seals and valve stem seals are made with quality materials.

ok i will go with the first. I plan on having a friend help me hone the cylinders so im still doing research on the rings yet. after honeing is there a way to tell what size to get or will i have to get a micrometer? and if so is there a kit somewhere that has all those mini measuring tools?

Honing isn't going to affect size significantly. Absolutely get the cylinders measure before reassembling the engine!!!!! If a cylinder is out of round and you replace the rings which have worn into the appropriate shape you will most likely have massive amounts of blow-by and probably burn a lot of oil.... and it won't wear in.

Get them measured by a shop where they can measure the entire bore. Just measuring the top of the bore isn't going to tell you anything. A cylinder can warp so that a cross section looks like this |(, this () or this )(.

ok me and a friend honed the cylinders and im starting to clean up some of the part. Its been so hard to get stuff done with school going on. im going to post another album in my profile after i get it done. But i did get it painted. :) dad borrowed me money. What a nice guy. looks good in a dark charcoal grey and black.

Why does your signature indicate that you've over torqued the hell out of the headbolts? I hope you're a) actually using studs or b) that's a typo or c) for some reason you used a higher torque because you used a poorer lubrcant than the moly ARP supplies.

We already went over this on another thread and its because thats what the instructions said that came with the ARP bolts.

And i was wondering if anyone knows of where i can get gaskets for my tail lights?

No, I don't recall it. I see someone else mentioned the difference in one of your threads in passing... It's unimportant. I checked to see if they've updated their online library (which they FINALLY HAVE!!) and they've made a couple changes to the product line.

The rated spec for their head bolts is now 90ft/lbs for head bolts which is the same as the studs when installed with a LOW friction coefficient lubricant (molybdenum or better). Also of note is that while both types of fasteners formerly required ISO size tooling (which a lot of people didn't realize anyway) the studs formerly used 9/16" 12 point nuts but now use 14mm (very close in size but different nonetheless) and the bolts are 1/2" (I can't find anything about that changing)... A lot of people had a miserable time in the past trying to use 13mm sockets.... I really think the last set of studs I installed were actually 13mm though, so ARP may have gone fully metric.

If you have an older kit which specifies the lower torque spec I recommend you stick with what the included instructions say. I would not torque OEM bolts to 90ft/lbs, but rather ARP's former recommendation of 75ft/lbs.

As I'm going to copy this to the fastener FAQ thread I'll add that the bore and thread is 12mm x 1.25.