Random stalling

Blindedlegacy · 02-02-2012, 01:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

No stored codes or just no check engine light? Sorry have to ask, a lot of people think that the CEL comes on if ANY codes are stored and that's not true, MOST don't cause it to light up.

The bogging when the heat comes on is something I'm going to have to think about.... The first thing that comes to mind is that the heater is drawing more current than the alternator can provide... could also account for stalling. Check the voltage from the alternator and then while watching the meter have someone turn on the heat.

As for the stalling I'd start with checking that the ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve) isn't clogged and test it; Then test the AFM; Test and calibrate the TPS; Check for vacuum leaks or openings in the intake piping.

ok im sorry this took so long but i just got the codes.
22 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
24 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
41 Throttle Position Sensor signal.

if i am right 22 is that makes the car hard to start if not plugged in and its not doing that and it is plugged in

24 i have no clue where that is

41 is also plugged in and working

are these stored codes or what? also im going to try the tps calibrating

cre · 02-02-2012, 01:51 AM

Code 41 isn't a calibration error. Either the TPS has been unplugged at some point, is damaged or the wiring harness or ECU is damaged.

Code 22 doesn't always result in difficulty starting... It may result in difficulty starting difficulty starting in significantly cold or hot weather. Essentially though it causes the ECU to run as if it were cold: see Lots of extra fuel, base timing map, open loop operation.

Code 24, like code 41, is set if the AFM is disconnected while the ECU is powered up or if it is damaged or the wiring or ECU are damaged. I believe that if the error is persistent the ECU assumes an ambient air temp of around 70?F; If the actual air temp is significantly different this will also severely affect performance.

While these codes will all remain stored in the ECU they should not affect performance if the problem has been corrected. You may clear them and see if they return after a drive or two.

Do note that the ECU temp sensor is not the same one used for the dash gauge; So don't go thinking that because the gauge works the sensor is fine.

Blindedlegacy · 02-02-2012, 02:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

Code 41 isn't a calibration error. Either the TPS has been unplugged at some point, is damaged or the wiring harness or ECU is damaged.

Code 22 doesn't always result in difficulty starting... It may result in difficulty starting difficulty starting in significantly cold or hot weather. Essentially though it causes the ECU to run as if it were cold: see Lots of extra fuel, base timing map, open loop operation.

Code 24, like code 41, is set if the AFM is disconnected while the ECU is powered up or if it is damaged or the wiring or ECU are damaged. I believe that if the error is persistent the ECU assumes an ambient air temp of around 70?F; If the actual air temp is significantly different this will also severely affect performance.

While these codes will all remain stored in the ECU they should not affect performance if the problem has been corrected. You may clear them and see if they return after a drive or two.

Do note that the ECU temp sensor is not the same one used for the dash gauge; So don't go thinking that because the gauge works the sensor is fine.

i clear the codes by disconnecting the battery right and my gauge is messed up anyways going to get a new one. do you know what the air temp sensor is?

cre · 02-02-2012, 03:50 AM

You only need to pull the EFI fuse for about 10 seconds. I think a minute is the recommendation. The intake air temp sensor is integrated into the AFM. Look in the EFI section of the TSRM for diagnostic info.

Blindedlegacy · 02-07-2012, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

You only need to pull the EFI fuse for about 10 seconds. I think a minute is the recommendation. The intake air temp sensor is integrated into the AFM. Look in the EFI section of the TSRM for diagnostic info.

ok i just reset the codes and calibrated the tps. i put my distributor back as close to the last known right spot. (going to buy a timing light soon) im going to test it when i go to work today and hopefully the random stalling goes away. if not i am going to take it to autozone for a starting and charging test

Blindedlegacy · 03-25-2012, 06:55 PM

Went back to this old thread because i have a question. opened up the distributor and did a brief look around and notice that i can turn the rotor a bit. i am pretty sure im not suppose to do that also i was reading somewhere that i might have gotten moisture in there and i can use wd 40 to get it out. true or false?

cre · 03-25-2012, 08:11 PM

No, do not spray anything in there. There are weeps in the cap and in the distributor body to allow for some circulation and to allow any seeping oil and condensation to evacuate.

Dry it lightly with a hair dryer, mop up any oil and replace the distributor's O-rings.

Do not try to drive it until you get the ignition timing set!

Blindedlegacy · 03-26-2012, 12:14 AM

i was just on the tsrm site and came across this
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...px?S=Main&P=45

and at the bottom in fail safe said or "or else stops the engine" should i look into above mention systems? also when it says "input signal 1,4,9,10,11" and "sensor 1,2,10,11" what are they talking about

02-02-2012, 01:51 AM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Code 41 isn't a calibration error. Either the TPS has been unplugged at some point, is damaged or the wiring harness or ECU is damaged. Code 22 doesn't always result in difficulty starting... It may result in difficulty starting difficulty starting in significantly cold or hot weather. Essentially though it causes the ECU to run as if it were cold: see Lots of extra fuel, base timing map, open loop operation. Code 24, like code 41, is set if the AFM is disconnected while the ECU is powered up or if it is damaged or the wiring or ECU are damaged. I believe that if the error is persistent the ECU assumes an ambient air temp of around 70?F; If the actual air temp is significantly different this will also severely affect performance. While these codes will all remain stored in the ECU they should not affect performance if the problem has been corrected. You may clear them and see if they return after a drive or two. Do note that the ECU temp sensor is not the same one used for the dash gauge; So don't go thinking that because the gauge works the sensor is fine. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

02-02-2012, 03:50 AM	#4
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	You only need to pull the EFI fuse for about 10 seconds. I think a minute is the recommendation. The intake air temp sensor is integrated into the AFM. Look in the EFI section of the TSRM for diagnostic info. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

03-25-2012, 08:11 PM	#7
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	No, do not spray anything in there. There are weeps in the cap and in the distributor body to allow for some circulation and to allow any seeping oil and condensation to evacuate. Dry it lightly with a hair dryer, mop up any oil and replace the distributor's O-rings. Do not try to drive it until you get the ignition timing set! __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

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03-25-2012, 06:55 PM	#6
Blindedlegacy 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Virginia Posts: 89	Went back to this old thread because i have a question. opened up the distributor and did a brief look around and notice that i can turn the rotor a bit. i am pretty sure im not suppose to do that also i was reading somewhere that i might have gotten moisture in there and i can use wd 40 to get it out. true or false?

03-26-2012, 12:14 AM	#8
Blindedlegacy 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Virginia Posts: 89	i was just on the tsrm site and came across this http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...px?S=Main&P=45 and at the bottom in fail safe said or "or else stops the engine" should i look into above mention systems? also when it says "input signal 1,4,9,10,11" and "sensor 1,2,10,11" what are they talking about