No, do not spray anything in there. There are weeps in the cap and in the distributor body to allow for some circulation and to allow any seeping oil and condensation to evacuate.

Dry it lightly with a hair dryer, mop up any oil and replace the distributor's O-rings.

Do not try to drive it until you get the ignition timing set!

There isn't any oil in there. Where can I get the o ring from. And what about that freeplay

There shouldn't really be more than a couple degrees of movement. If there is pull it back out and make sure the retainer pin for the drive gear is firmly in place and that the gear has no play on the spindle. The O-rings I'd just buy from Toyota... There are only two and the should be inexpensive.

Im going to get the timing right tomorrow and check the electrical side to see if it is in spec, raining right now, and I will get back to you with the results

i was just on the tsrm site and came across this
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...px?S=Main&P=45

and at the bottom in fail safe said or "or else stops the engine" should i look into above mention systems? also when it says "input signal 1,4,9,10,11" and "sensor 1,2,10,11" what are they talking about

Wow, props for actually reading the additional notes! No one ever seems to actually READ these days. The information about numbered input relates to the engine's count from the sensors.... not anything you typically need to worry about. If the coils read proper resistance with a meter and the pickups are properly gapped you don't really need to focus too much more on the CPS.

Failsafe mode or any failure significant enough to cause it should set an ignition/CPS related code(s) if that were the case. I've yet to see a MKIII actually drop into a fail safe mode from the CPS being off... they just run like ass.

Yea when I got a problem this bad I am reading alot of things. But I am going to start with that timing thing and check the gap and resistance. I hope its just the distributor because I am just clueless

ok timed it right it was off by 5 and i need to double check with someone if i am right

with the multimeter set to 2k ohm g1 and g2 of the distributor read .329 and the book says 140-180 is the good zone. i have not used an ohm meter in a long time so i am not 100 sure on this. with the meter on 2k position and i get .329 thats 329 ohm right?

new distributor installed and timed and didnt fix the problem. i going to do what i should have done from the beginning. replace battery and alternator because ive talked to techs and google thing and everything is pointing to that so im going to get those parts and update with my results. also a fuel filter because i dont know when it was changed

Before replacing the parts, do the test suggested earlier in this thread and check the voltage at the alternator and at the battery (with the car running). If the voltage at the alternator is higher than the battery, you likely have a bad connection somewhere in the charging system wiring. The voltage should be the same at both the battery and alternator, and you should have about 13.5 volts. If it's significantly lower, your alternator is likely bad and should be able to be tested at a parts store for free. Be sure to test it both with nothing extra turned on (lights, heater, etc) and with everything turned on and make sure it still produces that 13.5 volts.