No, just unplug the harness connector and plug in the wire jumper with uninsulated spade connectors on the end. When you're done testing unplug the jumper and plug the factory harness right back in. You cut nothing, solder nothing, permanently modify nothing. Use 10GA or 12GA wire for the jumper. This is a diagnostic tool, not something you install to leave in the car.

i was thinking more perm and driving my car to work as a test run LOL

You can drive it. You'll run excessively rich at idle and low to low-mid loads.... might make your problems worse. The whole point of a good heavy gauge wire and crimped on spade connectors is so you get the most solid connection and the wiring will handle the load without over heating... And it's easily removed. The reason for bypassing at the big connector is because the relay is the common fail point of the two... the resistor pack's are pretty bullet proof.

Well the resistor pack is out of spec but wouldn't that pressure reg keep it the same resistor pack or not. And where can I get a new pack because I can only find used ones

No, the fpr doesn't guarantee pressure and volume. The FPR can only flow so much. At higher loads the injectors run at a much higher duty cycle and effectively bleed off a good amount of pressure. I could imagine the increase in pressure from the pump killing an old FPR.

What you're calling "out of spec" is nothing. A cheap meter alone may report that far off. What temp was the resistor pack when you measured it?

I think you're starting grasping at straws and need to go back over what's been covered, see if there's anything you've neglected to check that's been listed.

You expect me to have thermometer? It was hot as hell if thats what you mean. I've replaced the entire ignition system and tested every sensor at least twice. I also replaced the entire charging system. I'm exhausted all my money and haven't gotten any closer to solving anything

Too much to ask, eh? And no, I wasn't looking for an exact measurement. Resistance through any conductor increases in proportion to temperature... heat it up and there's more resistance.

Don't blame me, I didn't recommend you spend a single cent on the charging system (I may have suggested spending $5 on new brushes for the alternator) and warned you to stop just throwing cash at it.


When you're done huffing and puffing: Clean ALL of your grounds (big and small, on the engine block, the intake manifold, driver's side kick panel and ECU) and battery cables. Test the AFM's Vs signal voltage at the ECU with someone moving the vane (I linked to a more detailed description on how to do this a long way back in this thread. Do it both when the AFM is cool and the heat it up heavily with a hair dryer and test again), test FC on the AFM both when it's hot and when it's cool. Wiggling wires does dick... take measurements, test for voltage drop. Check for loose, broken, corroded connectors. Test for voltage drop across Vc from the ECU to the AFM and TPS connectors. Vc should measure around .48 to .5v. Go through the fuse boxes and replace any fuses which are not the proper value (and make sure the previous owner didn't bypass anything else like they did with the 100A FL). Bypass the fuel pump resistor pack and relay if you like, it's not going to hurt anything to try it but generally it fails the other way around. You got rid of the code 51 right? Verified that the vacuum lines are all run properly? ALL of this should take 2 to 3 hours... for a complete novice it shouldn't take more than 3 days.

I replaced the charging system because I had the wrong battery in and th old alt output was terrible now where is this ground on the manifold because alot of things says its there but ive yet to find it. I have cleaned and checked all the engine bay grounds and they are fine. Im going to end up making a video and showing you whats happening

It's SUPPOSED to be bolted to the flange where the lower and upper halves of the intake manifold meet. Cylinder #5 to be precise.

Don't bother, I'm out.

I re-read the entire thread. I missed the item about plugging the ISCV's supply with the throttle closed and the engine still running. This strikes me as a bit odd. If the throttle plate isn't closing completely it needs to be corrected.

^^^Have you made it through this yet?

You should also have a look at the wiring to the climate control head unit, the blower and inspect the blower motor resistor pack for damage or tampering.

Did you replace the fusible link?

Have you located the grounds to the intake manifold?

Does the car die if just the heater is turned on or just if the blower is on at all?

Did the fuel pump resistor bypass get you anywhere?