Tired of rod knocks...

[turbonicsperformance]

drove it easy for 1k and moderate for 500 before ever going WOT. I've always broke in engines with 10w30 and never had a problem before. I only use conventional and occasionally if the customer requests it I will use an additive. during tech school I was always told to breakin the engine with the oil your going to use (except for synthetic) because it will allow the bearings to wear as they need to for that oil. My instructor was a GM instructor is on the ASE board and wrote 2 of the ASE tests so I trusted what he said and never had an issue with it before. i've built 80-100 engines that make alot more power than mine does I'm just at a wall with this engine unless i drop a ton of cash into it which i'd prefer not to do. so like i said i'll see what i can do with the oil cooler and i'll replace all the squirters and oil pump as well as completely flush all the oil passages and lines while the engine is apart and see if it helps. if not it looks like i'm swapping something else in, probably 1uz.
thanks for all the suggestions i'm 100% certain its going to end up being the oil pump. I found the other pump and pulled the part# off it and its from a gte which means the pump in my engine is a ge pump. also the cooler could be stuck open. I'll take some pictures and let you know what comes of this the engine will be out and on a stand by wednesday.

[cre]

Yeah, keep us posted. I'm quite curious because I don't know anyone who's had this much trouble rebuilding a 7M... bad luck sucks.

[turbonicsperformance]

well just a little update. it was the same rod again but this time it completely spun the bearing and screwed the crank pretty bad the rod doesnt look too good either. I'm gonna call around and see how much some machine shops want to grind polish and campher the crank and true the rods and see what comes from it, otherwise it might be bye bye 7m hello 2j or 1uz. I love the 7m I love the 28 mpg in town and i LOOOOVVVE the torque and sound of it. I also love the unique-ness of the swap and that alot of people dont recognize the engine. it'll hurt to say godbye but if its gonna run me more than $500 for the machining bearings and oil pump then its just not cost effective to stay 7m /: i can pick up a 1uz or 2j for 500 with trans and ecm right away.

[Ranma]

Originally Posted by turbonicsperformance

well just a little update. it was the same rod again but this time it completely spun the bearing and screwed the crank pretty bad the rod doesnt look too good either. I'm gonna call around and see how much some machine shops want to grind polish and campher the crank and true the rods and see what comes from it, otherwise it might be bye bye 7m hello 2j or 1uz. I love the 7m I love the 28 mpg in town and i LOOOOVVVE the torque and sound of it. I also love the unique-ness of the swap and that alot of people dont recognize the engine. it'll hurt to say godbye but if its gonna run me more than $500 for the machining bearings and oil pump then its just not cost effective to stay 7m /: i can pick up a 1uz or 2j for 500 with trans and ecm right away.

Dude there is a time and place for everything, buy a new block assembly and send this one to get recycled. My Firechicken did the same thing and no matter what the fellow did it was still fracked.

[turbonicsperformance]

the block is fine. if it were the block it would have been all the rods or atleast a different rod than before. i'm gonna try and be able to rebuild again but if not the the cost of a jdm 7m is getting WAYYYY up there whereas a 2jz rb25 or 1uz is still reasonable. hell a jdm rb25 with trans ecm turbos wiring everything is only $1300 and can make almost 400 on stock turbos. so its just not smart to stay 7m if i need a new block assembly or if the cost goes over $500 because there is a 2jzvvt and several 1uz at the local junk yard for 335 with trans and ecm/wiring

[87hilux7mge]

have you had the crank mains checked for straightness or align bored? just because all of the rods arent going bad doesnt mean the block isnt out of alignment.

if its spinning bearings, id look at the oil passage ways in the crank and block as well. could be a blockage closer too the front galley and restrict oil to bearing #1. just a couple thoughts.

wish i lived around where you are. there isnt a 1uz, rb25 or 2jz of any kind around here for less than 2500.

[Ranma]

Originally Posted by turbonicsperformance

the block is fine. if it were the block it would have been all the rods or atleast a different rod than before. i'm gonna try and be able to rebuild again but if not the the cost of a jdm 7m is getting WAYYYY up there whereas a 2jz rb25 or 1uz is still reasonable. hell a jdm rb25 with trans ecm turbos wiring everything is only $1300 and can make almost 400 on stock turbos. so its just not smart to stay 7m if i need a new block assembly or if the cost goes over $500 because there is a 2jzvvt and several 1uz at the local junk yard for 335 with trans and ecm/wiring

Dude there is a time for everything, so tell me why you are having such problems. Me my time is worth a lot to me! Then you have the parts, etc. You would be better off recycling the short block and replacing it. Then again have you considered your driving?

[turbonicsperformance]

the block is perfectly straight i checked it before it went together and just today when the crank was removed . it was rod #2 again im pretty sure that rod was out of round or something. its gonna run me 185 to have the crank and rods all redone. the block is gonna be flushed using brake clean at 120psi if theres anything in the block itll come out of it. YES my driving is very hard the car had 1200 miles on these bearings and maybe 300 of them are normal driving the rest is spirited driving around town, highway pulls, the strip,and drifting but even if the engine were driven at redline the entire 1200 miles the bearings should be able to handle it. the pump IS a 7mge pump and my cooler relief spring has a crack in it. i've found several things contributing to this problem. last time i just thought i was unlucky and got a bad bearing so i dropped the pan and put some bearings in it. this time i dropped the engine and put it on the stand so i'm finding the things to can't see until they come apart /: Oh well if it throws another rod then this block will go to the scrap bin I have the 185 plus parts now but i dont have the 335 plus for another swap at the moment.