Tired of rod knocks...

turbonicsperformance · 11-06-2011, 10:16 PM

stock ge flywheel brand new 3k ago and stock pulley that appears straight but its possible its out of balance i guess. the clutch was installed after the first set of bearings went out so i doubt thats it. plus the clutch is actually not all that harsh at all it only chatters if i drive really slow from a stop. other than that it feels like the sprung full face i had before. im pretty much 100% sure i have a ge pump in my engine. When i have the engine out this time i'm gonna have the crank machined or replaced and clean all of the oil passages again. i'll also replace the stock cooler setup with a thermostat full flow system and another set of piston squirters just to cut out ALL possibilities.

the engine was broke in on 10w30 conventional oil and the oil was changed at 300 then 1000 then 1500 miles running 100% stock boost and tune.

cre · 11-07-2011, 12:23 AM

The pulley's easy to check even on the engine, but as you're taking it apart anyway that's academic.

Why'd you break it in with a variable viscosity oil?? Use a flat 40 weight.

How are you breaking it in too? The old fashioned 'baby it for 4K mi' or the nice and quick '50 mi aggro as hell' break in?

turbonicsperformance · 11-07-2011, 12:41 AM

drove it easy for 1k and moderate for 500 before ever going WOT. I've always broke in engines with 10w30 and never had a problem before. I only use conventional and occasionally if the customer requests it I will use an additive. during tech school I was always told to breakin the engine with the oil your going to use (except for synthetic) because it will allow the bearings to wear as they need to for that oil. My instructor was a GM instructor is on the ASE board and wrote 2 of the ASE tests so I trusted what he said and never had an issue with it before. i've built 80-100 engines that make alot more power than mine does I'm just at a wall with this engine unless i drop a ton of cash into it which i'd prefer not to do. so like i said i'll see what i can do with the oil cooler and i'll replace all the squirters and oil pump as well as completely flush all the oil passages and lines while the engine is apart and see if it helps. if not it looks like i'm swapping something else in, probably 1uz.
thanks for all the suggestions i'm 100% certain its going to end up being the oil pump. I found the other pump and pulled the part# off it and its from a gte which means the pump in my engine is a ge pump. also the cooler could be stuck open. I'll take some pictures and let you know what comes of this the engine will be out and on a stand by wednesday.

cre · 11-07-2011, 07:56 PM

Yeah, keep us posted. I'm quite curious because I don't know anyone who's had this much trouble rebuilding a 7M... bad luck sucks.

turbonicsperformance · 11-14-2011, 07:03 AM

well just a little update. it was the same rod again but this time it completely spun the bearing and screwed the crank pretty bad the rod doesnt look too good either. I'm gonna call around and see how much some machine shops want to grind polish and campher the crank and true the rods and see what comes from it, otherwise it might be bye bye 7m hello 2j or 1uz. I love the 7m I love the 28 mpg in town and i LOOOOVVVE the torque and sound of it. I also love the unique-ness of the swap and that alot of people dont recognize the engine. it'll hurt to say godbye but if its gonna run me more than $500 for the machining bearings and oil pump then its just not cost effective to stay 7m /: i can pick up a 1uz or 2j for 500 with trans and ecm right away.

Ranma · 11-14-2011, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbonicsperformance

well just a little update. it was the same rod again but this time it completely spun the bearing and screwed the crank pretty bad the rod doesnt look too good either. I'm gonna call around and see how much some machine shops want to grind polish and campher the crank and true the rods and see what comes from it, otherwise it might be bye bye 7m hello 2j or 1uz. I love the 7m I love the 28 mpg in town and i LOOOOVVVE the torque and sound of it. I also love the unique-ness of the swap and that alot of people dont recognize the engine. it'll hurt to say godbye but if its gonna run me more than $500 for the machining bearings and oil pump then its just not cost effective to stay 7m /: i can pick up a 1uz or 2j for 500 with trans and ecm right away.

Dude there is a time and place for everything, buy a new block assembly and send this one to get recycled. My Firechicken did the same thing and no matter what the fellow did it was still fracked.

turbonicsperformance · 11-14-2011, 03:08 PM

the block is fine. if it were the block it would have been all the rods or atleast a different rod than before. i'm gonna try and be able to rebuild again but if not the the cost of a jdm 7m is getting WAYYYY up there whereas a 2jz rb25 or 1uz is still reasonable. hell a jdm rb25 with trans ecm turbos wiring everything is only $1300 and can make almost 400 on stock turbos. so its just not smart to stay 7m if i need a new block assembly or if the cost goes over $500 because there is a 2jzvvt and several 1uz at the local junk yard for 335 with trans and ecm/wiring

11-06-2011, 10:16 PM	#1
turbonicsperformance 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: sarasota fl Posts: 194	stock ge flywheel brand new 3k ago and stock pulley that appears straight but its possible its out of balance i guess. the clutch was installed after the first set of bearings went out so i doubt thats it. plus the clutch is actually not all that harsh at all it only chatters if i drive really slow from a stop. other than that it feels like the sprung full face i had before. im pretty much 100% sure i have a ge pump in my engine. When i have the engine out this time i'm gonna have the crank machined or replaced and clean all of the oil passages again. i'll also replace the stock cooler setup with a thermostat full flow system and another set of piston squirters just to cut out ALL possibilities. the engine was broke in on 10w30 conventional oil and the oil was changed at 300 then 1000 then 1500 miles running 100% stock boost and tune. __________________ 92 miata 7mgte swap forged pistons,studded mhg, 3 inch dp with a glass pack,blowthrough MAF-T,550cc inj, act stage 2 clutch, fmic kit, greddy rs, full wire tuck, rx7 lsd rear with 4.10s. 15psi "ct26-A"??(waiting on dyno #s) if anyone knows whats up with my turbo let me know it has a larger comp wheel nicer machining and 6 dual fins rather than 5? its confusing and keep finding too much contradicting info. would LLLLLOOOOOOOOVVVVVVVEEEEE a compressor map

11-07-2011, 12:23 AM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The pulley's easy to check even on the engine, but as you're taking it apart anyway that's academic. Why'd you break it in with a variable viscosity oil?? Use a flat 40 weight. How are you breaking it in too? The old fashioned 'baby it for 4K mi' or the nice and quick '50 mi aggro as hell' break in? __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

11-07-2011, 12:41 AM	#3
turbonicsperformance 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: sarasota fl Posts: 194	drove it easy for 1k and moderate for 500 before ever going WOT. I've always broke in engines with 10w30 and never had a problem before. I only use conventional and occasionally if the customer requests it I will use an additive. during tech school I was always told to breakin the engine with the oil your going to use (except for synthetic) because it will allow the bearings to wear as they need to for that oil. My instructor was a GM instructor is on the ASE board and wrote 2 of the ASE tests so I trusted what he said and never had an issue with it before. i've built 80-100 engines that make alot more power than mine does I'm just at a wall with this engine unless i drop a ton of cash into it which i'd prefer not to do. so like i said i'll see what i can do with the oil cooler and i'll replace all the squirters and oil pump as well as completely flush all the oil passages and lines while the engine is apart and see if it helps. if not it looks like i'm swapping something else in, probably 1uz. thanks for all the suggestions i'm 100% certain its going to end up being the oil pump. I found the other pump and pulled the part# off it and its from a gte which means the pump in my engine is a ge pump. also the cooler could be stuck open. I'll take some pictures and let you know what comes of this the engine will be out and on a stand by wednesday. __________________ 92 miata 7mgte swap forged pistons,studded mhg, 3 inch dp with a glass pack,blowthrough MAF-T,550cc inj, act stage 2 clutch, fmic kit, greddy rs, full wire tuck, rx7 lsd rear with 4.10s. 15psi "ct26-A"??(waiting on dyno #s) if anyone knows whats up with my turbo let me know it has a larger comp wheel nicer machining and 6 dual fins rather than 5? its confusing and keep finding too much contradicting info. would LLLLLOOOOOOOOVVVVVVVEEEEE a compressor map

11-07-2011, 07:56 PM	#4
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Yeah, keep us posted. I'm quite curious because I don't know anyone who's had this much trouble rebuilding a 7M... bad luck sucks. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

11-14-2011, 07:03 AM	#5
turbonicsperformance 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: sarasota fl Posts: 194	well just a little update. it was the same rod again but this time it completely spun the bearing and screwed the crank pretty bad the rod doesnt look too good either. I'm gonna call around and see how much some machine shops want to grind polish and campher the crank and true the rods and see what comes from it, otherwise it might be bye bye 7m hello 2j or 1uz. I love the 7m I love the 28 mpg in town and i LOOOOVVVE the torque and sound of it. I also love the unique-ness of the swap and that alot of people dont recognize the engine. it'll hurt to say godbye but if its gonna run me more than $500 for the machining bearings and oil pump then its just not cost effective to stay 7m /: i can pick up a 1uz or 2j for 500 with trans and ecm right away. __________________ 92 miata 7mgte swap forged pistons,studded mhg, 3 inch dp with a glass pack,blowthrough MAF-T,550cc inj, act stage 2 clutch, fmic kit, greddy rs, full wire tuck, rx7 lsd rear with 4.10s. 15psi "ct26-A"??(waiting on dyno #s) if anyone knows whats up with my turbo let me know it has a larger comp wheel nicer machining and 6 dual fins rather than 5? its confusing and keep finding too much contradicting info. would LLLLLOOOOOOOOVVVVVVVEEEEE a compressor map

11-14-2011, 03:08 PM	#7
turbonicsperformance 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: sarasota fl Posts: 194	the block is fine. if it were the block it would have been all the rods or atleast a different rod than before. i'm gonna try and be able to rebuild again but if not the the cost of a jdm 7m is getting WAYYYY up there whereas a 2jz rb25 or 1uz is still reasonable. hell a jdm rb25 with trans ecm turbos wiring everything is only $1300 and can make almost 400 on stock turbos. so its just not smart to stay 7m if i need a new block assembly or if the cost goes over $500 because there is a 2jzvvt and several 1uz at the local junk yard for 335 with trans and ecm/wiring __________________ 92 miata 7mgte swap forged pistons,studded mhg, 3 inch dp with a glass pack,blowthrough MAF-T,550cc inj, act stage 2 clutch, fmic kit, greddy rs, full wire tuck, rx7 lsd rear with 4.10s. 15psi "ct26-A"??(waiting on dyno #s) if anyone knows whats up with my turbo let me know it has a larger comp wheel nicer machining and 6 dual fins rather than 5? its confusing and keep finding too much contradicting info. would LLLLLOOOOOOOOVVVVVVVEEEEE a compressor map

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