Front brakes locked up

cre · 10-25-2011, 05:11 AM

Anti-seize is a very bad idea.... it's not really a lubricant in the sense that the calipers or other frequently moving components require. I would not be at all surprised if that was the problem. There are some places where you simply do not just use what's handy. Also, unless you applied the original grease ALWAYS clean out ALL existing grease to avoid mixing incompatible lubricants... Worst case scenario it may emulsify and lock the caliper from closing fully/evenly on the rotor.

Bru · 11-03-2011, 02:21 AM

I had a 1972 Honda AZ600 Coupe that the front calipers locked up and would not release.
I believe it was the brake booster that went bad.

interested! · 11-03-2011, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bru

I had a 1972 Honda AZ600 Coupe that the front calipers locked up and would not release.
I believe it was the brake booster that went bad.

Hi! Thanks for reminding me! - I had a Simca 1501 estate many , many , moons ago , and the brakes locked on after applying the footbrake , reason ; the diaphram had split in the servo , jamming the piston in the on position , the only way I could move forward was to stop the engine , pump the brakes to remove all of the vacuum and this would allow the brakes to release. - cured by replacing the diaphram , - you could do that sort of thing then .

pandrade · 02-27-2012, 12:48 AM

at the risk of sounding like an idiot or captin obviouse why dont you just rebuild the calipers. the kit costs 14$ for one calliper rebuild kit at advanced auto parts. like intristed said the piston could be pited and in rough shape. When i did mine the piston was slightly pitted but reusable after alot of tlc, and mine hasent given me problems since

start cheap and work up to major issues
If you rebuild and itsa not it look on the bright side there now rebuilt and only lost 14$ (well not really lost, how much is your safty worth to you?)

10-25-2011, 05:11 AM	#1
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Anti-seize is a very bad idea.... it's not really a lubricant in the sense that the calipers or other frequently moving components require. I would not be at all surprised if that was the problem. There are some places where you simply do not just use what's handy. Also, unless you applied the original grease ALWAYS clean out ALL existing grease to avoid mixing incompatible lubricants... Worst case scenario it may emulsify and lock the caliper from closing fully/evenly on the rotor. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

11-03-2011, 02:21 AM	#2
Bru Bone Stock w Upgrades ;-) Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Posts: 213	I had a 1972 Honda AZ600 Coupe that the front calipers locked up and would not release. I believe it was the brake booster that went bad. Last edited by Bru; 11-03-2011 at 02:24 AM.

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02-27-2012, 12:48 AM	#4
pandrade 12psi boost Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: fort myers florida Posts: 345	at the risk of sounding like an idiot or captin obviouse why dont you just rebuild the calipers. the kit costs 14$ for one calliper rebuild kit at advanced auto parts. like intristed said the piston could be pited and in rough shape. When i did mine the piston was slightly pitted but reusable after alot of tlc, and mine hasent given me problems since start cheap and work up to major issues If you rebuild and itsa not it look on the bright side there now rebuilt and only lost 14$ (well not really lost, how much is your safty worth to you?)