Performance Valve?
 

hey there,
Im lookin to upgrade my valves, springs etc. i am mechanicly inclined, only not with performance parts. My valves leak, i figured since the seals need replaced, i may as well upgrade..I dont know know exactly what to look for, as in brand sizes etc... can anytbody lead me in to the right direction..thank you
cody
1987 turbo

Brian crower makes good valves, springs and cams check out the site.

http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/Toyo...Internals.html

thanks, i will look into that for sure.....

Remember to take the head to the shop

ya, i was looking at the valves and they are oversized. thank you alot.
another question, my supra smokes on a cold start, a big cloud of white smoke just for like 1 minute if that. and also everytime I shift under i pressure. does this sound like valve seals?

ferrea valves are really good.

if you want a cheap, effective solution, just disassemble the head (you will need a valve spring compressor, large C-clamp type.) label all the valves, springs, retainers, lifter buckets, shims and keepers in ziplock bags, then polish the valves and lap them yourself (several online tutorials for this, just check to make sure the valves dont have excessive play in the valve guides.)

i saved a good 300 bux doing my own, and all my valves hold 20+inches of vacuum.

u can also do a valve spring upgrade by getting the BBC inner springs from comp cams and install them instead of stock ones. more seat pressure and its about 60 bux for 24 of them (they are sold in sets of 12, hm, wonder why....?)

i have a buddy with some ferrea valves in his 7m head, and they look titties tho.

After doing ANY valve work check the lifter clearances. Even rotating an old, worn in bucket can cause a decent shift. It's really something you should just do anyway while everything is off.

yes true, i forgot to mention that. checked all mine, and amazingly, nothing was out....ended up doing it 3 times just to be sure, but everything was pretty much dead center, a couple on the loose side, but still in spec.

when you check the clearances, make sure to rotate the cams a few times, just to get any kind of play out.

thanx alot everybody, all this info is a big help...
im looking at the brian crower valves and also cams depending on my budget.
another question, I want to put an HKS head gasket, any suggestions on how far I should deck the Head? and how thick of a gasket?
thank you all again. i will post some pics once my phone is working again

take the block to a reputable shop (preferably one that is familiar with these motors) and have them check everything on the block (inspect, clean, magnaflux, then advise to you their machining recommendations). the less you have to mill the block the better. u mostly just want to smoothest surface for the hks gasket. lapping the surface of the block is the best way to get it smoothest, but its also time consuming and labor intensive. some machine shops will do this, like i said tho, its spendy.

i opted out of lapping the block/head. ended up using a product called gasqasinch. we will see how it works, but ive got faith. when i pulled the head off the other day, lets just say it was a PITA with the gasqasinch on there.

i got the 1.2mm gasket, but when the machine shop tells you how much needs to be taken off the block and head, you can take that number and subtract it from the original height and buy the gasket accordingly. i just opted to get adjustable cam gears and only worry about gasket price. 400+ for a gasket was a lil ridiculous in my book....